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Innovation from an Unseen Dimension: How Toray's "NANODESIGN" Is Engineering the Future of Textiles
Toray Industries, Inc. has a track record of rolling out innovative technologies. Here at Fashion Tech News, we've always kept a close watch on their developments.
This time, we're spotlighting their groundbreaking technology that controls the molecular structure of fibers at the nano-level: NANODESIGN®. This technology is upending conventional wisdom in fiber development, churning out a stream of new materials that masterfully balance design, functionality, and sustainability.
We sat down with Kenta Nomura, General Manager of the department, and Masato Masuda, Director of the Fibers & Textiles Research Laboratories, to discuss the five-plus-year development journey. They walked us through the resulting signature textile products and unpacked the potential this technology holds for the apparel industry.
PROFILE
Kenta Nomura
General Manager, Women's & Men's Wear Fabrics Dept., Toray Industries, Inc.
Joined Toray in 1994. After 20 years in textile sales for women's and men's apparel, he moved to a sales role at a Malaysian textile company in 2014.
In 2019, he transitioned to the Sports & Apparel Materials Business Division, handling sales for sports and outdoor textiles. He returned to his current role in 2022, where he now oversees the department responsible for selling domestic and international textiles for women's and men's wear to a wide range of apparel brands.
PROFILE
Masato Masuda
Director, Fibers & Textiles Research Laboratories, Toray Industries, Inc.
Joined Toray in 1999. He began at the Fibers & Textiles Research Laboratories, focusing on manufacturing process research for general-purpose fibers. He was later seconded to the Tokyo Institute of Technology to work on a national project aimed at enhancing the performance of industrial fibers.
He returned to Toray in April 2005, engaging in R&D for high-performance fibers across a wide range of applications. He has been in his current position since August 2022.
What Exactly is "NANODESIGN" Technology?
True to its name, "NANODESIGN" is a technology for manipulating fibers at the nano-level, enabling polymers to be arranged with incredible precision during the manufacturing of synthetic fibers. This technical prowess is so remarkable that, as shown in the opening image, it can even spell out "TORAY" within a fiber's cross-section.
So, what effects does this technology actually have on fibers?
“Until now, our synthetic fibers were developed with the concept of mimicking natural fibers like silk and wool.”
“With 'NANODESIGN,' we can now develop yarns with a wide variety of cross-sections. This enables us to create dreamlike textiles with unprecedented functions and textures.” (Nomura)
According to Nomura, a fiber's properties are entirely determined by its structure. For example, incorporating a spring-like molecular structure creates stretchability, while creating an irregular cross-section can produce the unique texture and luster of natural fibers.
"NANODESIGN" makes it possible to build in functionalities that were previously difficult to achieve, all depending on the combination.
The 5-Year Development Process & the Hurdles Overcome
It took about five years from the initial concept of "NANODESIGN" to the commercialization of the first product. While five years might sound relatively fast for such a technology, what did the development process actually entail?
“At the time, our company was researching how to create ever-finer fibers. The truth is, we were hitting the limits of conventional methods. That's what spurred the design and development of a new technology.”
“Our engineering division and fiber research department joined forces, allowing us to rapidly innovate our melt-spinning processing technology, which is one of our company's core strengths.” (Masuda)
It's clear that "NANODESIGN" wasn't just about developing a new material; it was a prestige project for Toray, aimed at fundamentally revolutionizing production technology itself. This technology has enabled a more diverse range of unprecedented textile applications than any material the company has developed before.
Nomura notes, “With the birth of 'NANODESIGN,' the world of synthetic fiber development has shifted from simply chasing natural fibers to creating materials that surpass them.”
The Stretchability Achieved by uts-FIT®
So, what kinds of materials has "NANODESIGN" made possible?
"uts-FIT®," launched in 2016, was the very first product to leverage the "NANODESIGN" technology. Known as an ultra-fine, minutely crimped polyester textile, it's celebrated for its moderate stretch and lightweight feel.
It features a bimetal structure, where two different types of resin are bonded together, combined with a fine spiral configuration. This innovative design allows the microfiber to be both water-repellent and waterproof. Today, it serves as a new choice for the outer shells of down jackets and other outerwear, offering a perfect blend of mobility and comfort.
The Quest to Surpass Silk: The Hallmarks of Kinari™ & Camifu™
As Nomura notes, "NANODESIGN" doesn't just aim to replicate the delicate feel and beauty of natural fibers; it also infuses them with the unique functionality of synthetic materials. Two prime examples are "Kinari™," introduced in 2019, and "Camifu™," from 2020."Kinari™" recreates the elegant luster and crisp "scroop" of silk. By precisely controlling the fiber's cross-section into a complex shape, "NANODESIGN" manages how light is diffused, resulting in a deep sheen and a dry-to-the-touch feel. To top it off, it’s also practical, offering easy-care, at-home machine washability.
"Camifu™," on the other hand, takes inspiration from the texture of washi, a traditional Japanese paper. It features a finely textured surface created by arranging three different polymers using "NANODESIGN." This gives the fabric an appealing, fluctuating look reminiscent of washi paper, while also allowing for customized functionality to meet client needs.
Contributing to Sustainability: Realizing PFAS-Free & Recyclable Solutions
The "NANODESIGN" technology continues to expand its reach, as seen with the 2021 development of "Qticle™," a fiber known for its stretch and easy-care properties. However, many challenges still lie ahead.
"Reducing environmental impact is a critical social challenge that the modern apparel industry can't ignore, and we believe 'NANODESIGN' plays a vital role on the sustainability front.
"For instance, PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances), commonly used for water-repellent finishes, are a global concern due to their persistence in the environment. In response, our 'NANODESIGN'-based water-repellent material, 'DEWEIGHT™,' achieves high performance without any PFAS by meticulously engineering the fiber's surface structure." (Masuda)
Recyclability is also a key consideration, particularly in Europe. When targeting international markets, simply promoting functionality is no longer enough. Companies are now evaluated on their commitment to the environment, especially their contribution to a circular economy that includes post-consumer recycling processes. "NANODESIGN" is poised to make a significant contribution here as well.
How NANODESIGN Is Shaping the Future of the Textile Industry
"NANODESIGN" is revolutionizing the textile industry by re-engineering fibers from the nano-level up. We asked the team where they plan to take this groundbreaking technology next."It's still a technology where reducing costs is a challenge, but our immediate focus is on expanding its potential in the world of fashion. Beyond that, expectations for this technology are incredibly high, both within and outside the company, and we foresee its application in a wide range of fields." (Nomura)
"Just as we wear clothes every day, fibers are an inseparable part of our lives. Our goal is to keep developing materials that make everyday life more comfortable and fulfilling. We also aim to apply 'NANODESIGN' technology to growth sectors like next-generation information and communications, supporting society from behind the scenes." (Masuda)
The technology of "NANODESIGN" and the fibers born from it are truly forging the future. The company is set to lead the textile industry toward a more prosperous and sustainable tomorrow.
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