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The Unique Wristwatch Brand "Naval Watch" Which Has Evolved by Embracing Military & Vintage Watch Styles
Founded in the 1800s in the Swiss city of Otrib, "Naval Watch."
While producing military watches for various European countries, it is also known for producing timepieces in 1918 that featured luminous dials essential for military watches, setting the standard for modern watchmaking.
This time, we spoke with Yuji Yutsugi, the president of Trinity Design Lab. and a watch designer, about Naval Watch, which has been revived in the modern era.
Rebranding Naval Watch
Naval Watch had paused its brand activities during its long history but resumed in 2016. Let's talk about what prompted this."An overseas partner company acquired the rights to Naval Watch and became the brand holder, which led me to start handling the design and everything related to Naval Watch.
"Since I originally loved military and vintage watches, I thought it would be more fulfilling to carry on a historically significant brand in that category than to start a new one.
"As part of the rebranding effort, I embarked on some initiatives. During the 1940s to 1950s, when Naval Watch produced many military watches, there were many designs that resembled pocket watches with bands, which I felt were not suited to the present age.
"Therefore, I worked on creating a collection from scratch, including aspects like the size of the movement. In doing so, I grasped the brand's history while incorporating modern elements and, of course, reflecting the designs I wanted to create."
Essential Items to Choose from Naval Watch
The military series of Naval Watch falls under the category "Naval Watch Original." Let's have them introduce a classic item from this line."The top classic item is the 'Mil.-01A US Force Type.' Based on U.S. Army specifications, it faithfully reproduces the military specifications of the time while updating the size to a 38mm case diameter. The acrylic dome crystal has been revived to create an antique feel.
"In addition, it utilizes a Swiss-made quartz movement with a date function, making it a product that can withstand modern usage in terms of functionality.
"The luminous paint for the numbers, indices, and hands on the dial uses 'LumiNova®,' which is exclusively allowed for Swiss-made wristwatches, enhancing the luminosity duration and intensity.
"With a waterproof structure of 5 atmospheres, this watch is suitable for everyday water activities and tasks."
"And another classic item is the 'Mil.-02A Royal Air Force type.'
"This model is based on British Royal Air Force specifications and also faithfully reproduces the military specs of the time, with an expanded case size, revival of the dome crystal, Swiss quartz movement, and the adoption of LumiNova® luminous paint.
"The uniquely crafted case material is 316L stainless steel, which is said to be corrosion-resistant, making it a popular item along with 'Mil.-01A US Force Type.'"
The Line "Naval Watch Produced By Lowercase"
Another major category of Naval Watch is the line "Naval Watch Produced By Lowercase" (hereafter: Produced By Lowercase).This line is produced by Yoshikage Kajiwara, who is well-versed in fashion and digital gadgets, leading the creative consulting firm "Lowercase," and has become a popular series. Let’s continue discussing this hot line.
"I got to know Kajiwara through a common client, and we started talking about working together on this project back in 2019, and I believe it officially started as Produced By Lowercase in 2020.
"Kajiwara has a deep knowledge and passion for vintage sports watches, and I have been shaping the ideas and concepts he provides into concrete designs.
"If Naval Watch Original focuses on vintage military styles, Produced By Lowercase includes items that are designed based on vintage watches in general and sports watches."
Original Design with Attention to Detail
Let's also introduce some staple items from the Produced By Lowercase line. This line is primarily produced in Japan."The first item that comes to mind as a staple is the model 'FRXA001 Mechanical S/S 3 links Metal band.'
"Based on vintage watches, this model enhances visibility by enlarging the case shape and date function, featuring a cyclops acrylic lens, a metal band, and hands, all designed from scratch with an original concept. We focused on creating a blend of modernity and a vintage feel down to the finest details.
"It adopts a Japanese automatic self-winding movement, which sufficiently meets modern specifications in terms of functionality.
"Similar to Naval Watch Original, the luminous paint on the dial numbers, indices, and hands uses LumiNova® paint, further colored in ivory to enhance the vintage aesthetic.
"Water-resistant capabilities are consistent with other products, offering a pressure-resistant structure of 5 atmospheres."
Yutsuji has been involved with watches since his art university days, and I feel he is a designer with extensive knowledge and a strong love for timepieces. The designs strongly evoke vintage aesthetics while integrating modern specifications, showcasing deep knowledge, experience, and style.
While I have focused on introducing staple items this time, when you take a closer look at each piece in Naval Watch's rich lineup, you will surely appreciate the dedication that has gone into them.
Currently, sales have begun in various countries outside Japan, including the United States, France, the United Kingdom, Australia, South Korea, and China, and watch enthusiasts around the world are starting to recognize the charm of Naval Watch.
PROFILE
Yuji Yutsuji
Limited Company TRINITY DESIGN LAB.
President
After working at the then-rare "Gadget-Type Watch Store JUNKS" during his student days at Osaka University of Arts, he took on the role of watch buyer at Kiddy Land Co., Ltd.
Afterward, he managed design, planning, and sales at a watch manufacturer before becoming independent in 2002. He established external contracts with Seiko Watch and undertook planning and production of watches for various watch manufacturers, game companies, and apparel companies, while reviving Naval Watch in 2016 to create original timepieces.
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