Delving into the Allure of the New Balance "998," Which Was Born Just Before the High-Tech Sneaker Boom and Has Garnered Support from Core Fans

Released in 1993, the New Balance "998" is the fifth model in the 990 series. Its point of interest lies in its adoption of a midsole suitable for running while maintaining a classic appearance.
 
Recently, the charm of the "998," which is now attracting attention through collaborations with domestic brands, was discussed with Shigeyuki Kunii, the creative director of mita sneakers and a well-known figure in the sneaker community.

Feature of “ABZORB” Unique to “New Balance”

The "998," which emerged with the impressive catchphrase of "990 points out of 1000," is the fifth model in the 990 series. While the model number suggests it is a culmination of the 990 series, New Balance cannot be defined by numbers alone. Regarding the "998," Kunii explained:

The "998" was introduced as the fifth model in the "99X" series by New Balance, and its standout feature is its first-time incorporation of the well-known cushioning material "ABZORB."
 

"ABZORB" is a cushioning material that absorbs the impact felt by the foot upon landing while simultaneously returning that energy during take-off. It features "C-CAP" in the forefoot and "ENCAP" in the heel, and these three technologies together deliver unprecedented comfort in the "998."
 
In 1993, when the "998" was introduced, the high-tech sneaker boom was just beginning, so it's fair to say that this shoe embodies that hybrid feel with its classic appearance and high-tech cushioning technology.

Adoption of the Slim Last “SL-1” as a Departure from Tradition

While the "998" represents a significant evolution in the "ABZORB" cushioning technology, another major change is its use of the slim last "SL-1." Kunii elaborates:

"Before the introduction of the '998,' the '99X' series predominantly featured wide and bulky forms, but the '998' is characterized by its slim and smart silhouette. The last used in the subsequent models, including '991' and '1700,' makes the difference in form evident when compared with other 'MADE in USA' models.

"Interestingly, the original design has been resurrected in the recent 'MT580,' which also adopted the 'SL-1' last, indicating a trend that appears to be gaining popularity. This may be because fewer people tend to have very wide feet these days."

The "SL-1" is akin to a "long nose" in dress shoes. Its sleek form conveys a sense of sophistication, which makes it understandable why "Kith" and "W-TAPS" chose it as the base model for their collaborations.

New Balance's Strategy Viewed Through the Past, Present, & Future

Since 2022, Teddy Santis, the founder of the popular New York brand "Aimé Leon Dore," has been serving as the creative director for New Balance's "MADE in USA" line. As a result, a new colorway of the "998" has been introduced this season. Kunii explained:

This latest release features two colors: "Classic Navy" and "Neutral Sandstone." Looking back at Teddy's past collections, it’s evident that when using color, he often draws inspiration from nature for his naming.
 
Previously, the inline offerings included gray, navy, and black. Just by changing the color palette, the impression can feel completely different as if it's an entirely new model. Teddy’s collections typically emphasize color schemes that are complementary when arranged together, so there might be an intention to convey a concept of "heaven and earth" this time as well. This is just a personal thought, though... (laughs)

When asked to explain New Balance's vision for the "998," Kunii provided this response:
 
"‘MADE in USA’ emphasizes keywords like ‘craftsmanship’ and ‘authenticity.’ If a brand doesn’t have an original foundation, other variations will seem like mere play.

"Other brands often lean too heavily on trends, resulting in their original products not always being available in stores. The original items are deliberately offered in limited quantities to enhance their rarity, while seasonal products are continuously promoted.
 
"However, in the case of New Balance, the original always remains a staple, available for purchase in stores, alongside seasonal products curated by Teddy. Their commitment to maintaining a solid foundation while evolving is truly appealing.
 
"That said, they aren’t merely pushing the orthodox path; they are not nostalgic either. I find it remarkable how they effectively showcase the connections between the past, present, and future through their collections."
 
The marketing prowess of New Balance, which has captivated Kunii, who has closely followed the shoe industry, is truly impressive. It’s a strategy that always considers the user, which perhaps is why they continue to be a top brand.