NEXUSVII. Is Bringing Back the Legendary 'Zodiac Series' Sweatshirt with a Modern Twist!

In the vintage world, sweatshirt prices have skyrocketed recently. The Snoopy series from the '60s, in particular, is a globally popular masterpiece. Yet, during that same era, the same manufacturer produced another sweatshirt that was so incredibly scarce it became the stuff of legend—truly an “elusive” piece.

We're talking about the item known as the "Zodiac Series [1]," so rare it's considered a holy grail for enthusiasts. Now, NEXUSVII. has brought this legendary item back to life.

We sat down with the brand's director, Tomohiro Konno, and vintage collector Rei Otsuka, who contributed to the creative process, to get the inside story on how this collection came together.

Konno is one of the industry's top vintage aficionados, an expert on a vast array of pieces. Items from NEXUSVII., often inspired by his huge private collection, are known for their impeccable quality and are well-respected even among apparel industry insiders. They go beyond simple reissues, winning a loyal following for their highly fashionable designs that capture a modern sensibility.

Otsuka, on the other hand, is a collector through and through, immersed in vintage clothing and American toys since childhood thanks to his father's influence. His collection spans all major categories, featuring hundreds of sweatshirts, denim, and T-shirts. His love for Snoopy, in particular, has been a constant since his days collecting American toys.

And when it comes to the star of this article, the "Zodiac Series," he boasts an incredible collection: a complete set of all 12 signs, a feat almost unheard of anywhere in the world.

Many vintage items, from denim to military wear, have been reissued in various ways—restored, resized, and more—based on original surviving pieces. But without an original to work from, that task is next to impossible.

In the case of the "Zodiac Series," where originals are virtually nonexistent, no one had ever managed to pull off a reproduction. That’s where Otsuka, the collector, came in. Using every one of the 12 signs from his personal collection as a reference, the team meticulously analyzed every detail, down to the warping and shrinkage of the original prints. The final reproduction preserves the authentic feel of the originals while being brought back to life with a modern touch.

Fabric, Color, and Print: A Major Struggle with Irregularities

While Konno has a history of meticulously reissuing countless classics with a modern touch, he admits the "Zodiac Series" was an exceptionally tough challenge.

"First of all, nailing the silhouette was incredibly difficult. The original sweatshirts used a 'tube-knit' body, meaning they were constructed from a single piece of tubular fabric with no side seams. We stuck to that method.

However, because tube-knit fabric is made by looping it around a body-sized cylinder, you can typically only make one size from one cylinder.

That means to offer a range of sizes, you need to create a custom cylinder for each one. There are technical limitations, especially for larger sizes like XL, but our partners were able to create them specially for us this time.

We also obsessed over every last detail. For example, we deliberately used cotton thread for the seams to ensure that 'a color difference emerges between the thread and the fabric' as the sweatshirt fades with wear," says Konno.

Apparently, nailing the unique feel and color of the vintage fabric was another major hurdle. Otsuka, an expert on the "Zodiac Series," shared just how tough the reproduction process was.

"This is true for other items like denim, too, but you'll find variations in color and feel even among pieces from the exact same brand, using the same fabric, from the same era.

They were supposed to be dyed the same color at the same factory, but when you line them up, the tones are off. I think it’s a reflection of how much less consistent the manufacturing operations were back then," says Otsuka.

"We took the piece we borrowed from Otsuka-kun and other sweatshirts from the same 'Spruce' company and took numerical readings of the colors, but they were all slightly different, even for the same shade. We figured this was probably due to differences in wear frequency and storage conditions over the years.

So, for the color development, we consulted with the artisans to decide which shade to use as our benchmark from the spectrum of light and dark tones of that era. We went through a lot of trial and error, always thinking about how it would fade into the perfect tone over time," explains Konno.

Otsuka adds more context about the chaotic state of American factories in the '60s.

"The 'Zodiac Series' came in two body types: 100% cotton and a 90/10 cotton-polyester blend. The size would change depending on the washing machine or dryer, and the blended ones would shrink a lot.

You'd also see slight variations in the tag designs, and in extreme cases, some even had the print on the back instead of the front. They must have been making these without any real unified standards. But then again, that rough-around-the-edges quality is part of what makes vintage from that era so charming," Otsuka adds.

Notably, the Zodiac Series was released in 1969, right in the middle of the Vietnam War, a turbulent time for America.

"Counterculture was taking root and the hippie boom was in full swing, which might explain why they went with such pop, playful colors and logo designs," Otsuka speculates.

Even after clearing the high hurdles of recreating the stitching and fabric texture, the printing process proved to be a real challenge.

"We tried everything, but it all failed spectacularly... I was at the point of giving up, so as a last resort, I consulted a specialist friend, thinking, 'If he can't do it, we're done.' And that's when we finally saw a path forward.

First, we created the exact same font as the original. Then, using that, we collected data on exactly how much the fabric shrinks vertically and horizontally and how much it twists after washing.

On top of that, to find the perfect placement where the original design looked its best, we broke down and analyzed every single character individually. It was a seriously tough job because the fabric's properties change with each color and pattern," says Konno.

After a process of trial and error, they succeeded in reproducing an item that is almost identical to the original, from the feel of the material to the print. However, they intentionally left in 'subtle differences.' This is where Konno, and Nexusvii, truly shine.

"We changed the logo design on the back print. For Nexusvii, this is our way of saying, \"This is not the vintage item itself.\" However, we have faithfully reproduced all 12 zodiac designs on the front.

"Also, while the sewing technique is true to the original, the silhouette has been modernized, so I think it's become a piece that looks vintage but can be worn in a modern way," says Konno.

A Rich Lineup of Colorful T-Shirts Also Recommended

The 'Zodiac Series' sweatshirts by Nexusvii for this release are produced exclusively for pre-orders made at the exhibition and will not be sold in stores. A second 10-day pre-order event is scheduled to run from May 1st to May 10th at the Nexusvii store (Fukuzumi Bldg. 1F-A, 3-27-15 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo).

"The last time we held a pre-order event open to the public was our first, and it was a really enjoyable time. There were far more people collecting the 'Zodiac Series' than I ever imagined, and some were unfortunately left disappointed... I hope everyone is looking forward to this pre-order event too," says Konno.

"This time, we also made T-shirts to go with the sweatshirts. This is a new item that wasn't in the original lineup, and it will be sold in stores. For each zodiac sign, there are seven body colors available, with sizes from S to XXL. Just like the sweatshirts, we're very proud of them," says Otsuka.

We asked for their final thoughts on the project.

"Otsuka's depth of knowledge is truly incredible; it made me wonder, \"What have I really been looking at all this time?\" I started to think my own pursuits might have been superficial (laughs). Working with him, I was really reminded of the importance of \"digging deep.\"

"The global recognition of vintage clothing today is thanks to people like Otsuka who have pursued it so thoroughly. As someone involved in manufacturing, it made me feel strongly that I need to approach my work with more sincerity," says Konno.

"I'm a collector, but I've always wanted to try being on the production side. Being involved in the creation of the 'Zodiac Series' this time was a truly valuable experience. If the opportunity arises, I would absolutely love to do it again," says Otsuka.

The modern reproduction of the 'Zodiac Series,' born from this encounter, has been an endeavor to breathe new life into a legendary sweatshirt. We can't wait to see what masterpiece these two—with their bottomless love and spirit of inquiry for vintage—will create next.