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The King and Pinnacle of Sneakers: Why Is the 'NIKE AIR FORCE 1' So Wildly Popular?
Debuting in 1982, the Nike Air Force 1 is an undisputed classic known by all. Fusing high performance with stellar design for its era, the model soared in popularity, transcending its basketball roots. The 1990s hip-hop boom catapulted its fame, making it a household name even among those who weren't sneakerheads.
To uncover the history, secret origins, and the reasons behind its incredible rise to fame, we sat down with Katsushige Kamamoto, owner of the sneaker shop SKIT.
The Mastermind Behind the Design: Bruce Kilgore
The Air Force 1, now a legendary classic, was introduced in 1982 as the very first basketball shoe to incorporate 'Nike Air' technology. Kamamoto sheds light on its origin story:
"The designer was Bruce Kilgore, who would go on to design the 'Air Jordan 1' and 'Air Jordan 2.' Before he joined 'Nike,' his background was in designing automotive equipment and home appliances.
He was tasked with creating a basketball shoe featuring 'Nike Air'—the same technology used in the historic 'Tailwind' running shoe. The 'Air Force 1' was the fruit of his labor."
Interestingly, the Air Force 1 initially launched only as a high-top model, which was standard for basketball shoes at the time. The low-top version followed later. It was packed with groundbreaking features for its day, including a full-length 'Nike Air' unit in the heel, a pivot point on the outsole, and an ankle strap for a snugger fit.
"The 'Air Force 1' was a premium basketball shoe of its time, and it brought 'Nike' huge success as a company. But it seems their focus shifted to what was next, so the shoe was only sold for three years, from 1982 to 1985. Then, in 1986, the 'Air Force 2' was launched."
It's shocking that the wildly popular 'Air Force 1' was only on the market for three years. It's also fascinating that the 'Air Force 2'—a model that is virtually unknown today—was even released.
The 'Air Force 1' Craze in Japan: An Ura-Harajuku Origin Story
With the launch of the 'Air Force 2,' the evolved successor, in 1986, production of the original 'Air Force 1' was discontinued. But its fanbase was loyal, and the demand for its comeback was immense. Kamamoto continues with an anecdote about the legendary sneaker.
"While the new 'Air Force 2' was also popular, there was an overwhelming demand from fans for the 'Air Force 1.' In response, three shoe stores in Baltimore—'Charley Rudo Sports,' 'Downtown Locker Room,' and 'Cinderella Shoes'—reportedly went straight to 'Nike' headquarters to personally request a re-release. 'Nike' agreed, and the 'Air Force 1' was brought back, exclusively for those three stores.
As word of the re-release got out, fans swarmed the three Baltimore shops. The stores began releasing special editions with a different colored Swoosh each month, which became known as the 'Color of the Month' series. This is considered the origin of the 'shop-exclusive' model we see today."
Kamamoto offers his take on how the 'Air Force 1' amassed its global fanbase.
"In the United States, hip-hop artist Nelly dropped the track 'Air Force Ones,' a tribute to the sneaker that climbed the music charts. Events like this, combined with collaborations with fashion labels and boutiques, cemented its intimate relationship with street culture.
In the late 1990s and into the 2000s, a high-tech sneaker boom swept through Japan. As a counter-culture movement against this trend, the "Air Force 1" gained popularity among vintage clothing enthusiasts. Around the same time, influential figures in the Ura-Harajuku scene, like Hiroshi Fujiwara, began wearing the "Air Force 1," which helped reignite its popularity across Japan.
"Some people speculate that the release of the 'Air Force 1' Snake model cemented its popularity in Japan, but I think the real turning point was when people in the Ura-Harajuku scene started wearing them."
After that, it goes without saying that a flood of collaborative and store-exclusive models popped up in Japan, fueling consumer demand and cementing the shoe's popularity.
The "Air Force 1" Won't Go Out of Style, Even in 100 Years!
In 2017, three pairs of the "Air Force 1" from the early 1980s were featured in the Museum of Modern Art's (MoMA) exhibition "Items: Is Fashion Modern? (アイテム：ファッションはモダンか？)". The exhibition highlighted 111 pieces of clothing and accessories that made a powerful impact on the world from the 20th to the 21st century.The impact the "Air Force 1" had on the sneaker industry is also immeasurable. Kamamoto comments on this aspect.
"It would definitely rank high among the best-selling sneakers of the last 20 years. Of course, last year the Adidas 'Samba' was all the rage, and the year before it was the Nike 'Dunk Low,' but the \"Air Force 1\" has consistently sold well over a long period. So, even looking at a 10 or 20-year span, it's bound to be a top seller.
I hear that some of the younger generation feel it's almost embarrassing to wear 'Jordan 1s' or 'Dunks' because they're too trendy now. But you never hear anyone say that about the 'Air Force 1.'
People in their 40s, my generation, have experienced everything from the high-tech sneaker boom to the popularity of classic models, so we can look at the 'Air Force 1' with an unbiased eye, separate from the trends.
The 'Air Force 1' is a sneaker that no one is embarrassed to wear. In fact, I think that even 100 years from now, after we’re gone, this model will still be around."
The "Air Force 1" was also the first non-"Air Jordan" sneaker that Kamamoto ever bought, so he has a particular soft spot for it. When we asked him to sum up the appeal of the "Air Force 1," this is what he had to say:
"The 'Air Force 1' has tons of similar colorways, but just changing the color on one small part can completely alter the shoe's look. I think that constant novelty is part of its appeal. Even now, when I see an 'Air Force 1' with new materials or an evolved color pattern, I still think, 'Man, that's cool.'
Of course, since I'm a Michael Jordan fan, I love the 'Air Jordan' series, but there are some models in that line I just wouldn't wear. That's never the case with the 'Air Force 1.' I think it's a sneaker I'll wear for life."
There's no other model that elicits such high praise from a sneakerhead like Kamamoto. With its 45th anniversary just two years away, we can't wait to see what anniversary models will be released.
PROFILE
Katsushige Kamamoto
Head of SKIT
Born in Aomori Prefecture in 1978. After graduating high school, he moved to Tokyo, gained experience working at a sneaker shop, and opened the first SKIT store in Kichijoji in 2001. Thanks to his vast knowledge of sneakers and an expert eye that's among the best in the industry, his shop attracts countless sneaker fans. He even appeared in the movie \"Sneakerheads,\" and his work is closely followed by international sneakerheads. Today, SKIT has locations not only in Kichijoji but also in Osaka, Sendai, and Fukuoka.
Sneaker Shop SKIT Tokyo-Kichijoji
1F D-ASSET Kichijoji, 1-18-1 Kichijoji Minamicho, Musashino-shi, Tokyo TEL: 0422-47-6671 Hours: 11:00 - 19:00 https://www.k-skit.com/
Photo by Hiroyuki “Lily” Suzuki (StudioLog)
Text by Yasuyuki Ushijima (NO-TECH)
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