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What Impact Did the Original High-Tech Sneaker "Nike Air Max 95" Have on the Sneaker Industry on Its 30th Anniversary?

2025.03.26
Born in 1995, "Nike Air Max 95" is a masterpiece that has made a mark in sneaker history. Its innovative design and colorways shocked the world. This model, still immensely popular today, celebrates its 30th anniversary this year. We spoke with Katsushige Kamamoto, the representative of "Sneaker Shop SKIT," about the history, backstory, and allure of this special model.

"Air Max 95" Disappeared from Stores due to Celebrity Endorsements

"Air Max 95" transformed the Japanese sneaker scene. It was the first model in Nike's Air series to make the air in the forefoot visible. What concept gave rise to this shoe? Kamamoto explains:
The so-called “Yellow Gradient” model of "Air Max 95" features a neon yellow gradation that symbolizes the model's popularity. This is the 2020 reissue model, priced at 44,000 yen (tax included).
The designer was Sergio Lozano, who was still a relatively junior employee in his fourth year at the company. He drew inspiration from human anatomy books, designing the shoe to evoke human skin, muscles, and ribs.
Previously, visible air was limited to the heel, but with this model, it was made visible all the way to the forefoot. The gradient color is inspired by the structure of the human body.
Interestingly, at the time of its release, it wasn't that popular in Japan. As it was categorized as a running shoe, I saw high school track athletes wearing them for training. The cushioning was good due to the air included, but it had durability issues because of the many seams on the sides, making it less suitable for serious use.
 
However, street skaters quickly caught onto the trend, so we did see some people wearing this model.
 
The surge in popularity in Japan can be attributed to Ichiro's appearance in a Mitsuya Cider poster, Ryoko Hirosue in a Docomo beeper commercial, and comedian duo "London Boots Ichi-go Ni-go" wearing them in a fashion magazine, all of which played major roles.
 
Back in the 1990s, before the prevalence of smartphones and the internet, television and magazines were the most powerful sources of information. Additionally, there are stories about how "Air Max 95" suddenly vanished from stores after Takuya Kimura was featured on the cover of the New Year special issue of "Shukan Asahi" in 1996, wearing the red version at the dawn of the year 1996.
The fluorescent yellow used for the lace loops and the swoosh was at the time an innovative color that captivated the world.
Kamamoto, who was already working at a sneaker shop in 1996, adds:
 
“At that time, people would bring in clippings from magazines featuring celebrities wearing the shoes or the Mitsuya Cider poster with Ichiro and ask, ‘Do you have this sneaker for sale?’ Of course, we had no stock at the shops… "
 
The rare model, becoming increasingly scarce, stirred up a negative social phenomenon known as the “Air Max hunting,” where people would steal the shoes from those who wore them.

A Unique Presence that Created Japan's Sneaker Boom

When I asked Kamamoto about stories of "Air Max 95," he responded:
 
“This model became a social phenomenon. According to someone who was at Nike at the time, in response to this popularity, there was a unique additional order for 'Air Max 95' placed by 'Nike Japan' for sale.
The original "Air Max 95" released in 1995. The sole has decomposed, hence remains wrapped, making it a valuable piece (reference item).
"Of course, it still didn’t circulate widely in the market, but in that era, it was a bold decision. As a result, different production dates emerged for the original models released in Japan and those that were circulating in the market.”
 
Additionally, he expressed how fervent the excitement was at that time:
 
On the top is the original, and below is the 2020 reissue model. Comparing them shows that the original’s fluorescent yellow has a slightly greenish tint.
“At that time, the internet was not widespread, so people gathered information by calling shops. When a store called 'Marui Field,' which handled sports goods, announced that "Air Max 95" would be released on a certain date, lines would start forming the night before.
 
"In 1995, few people used credit cards, so at the stores where 'Air Max 95' was released, piles of 10,000 yen notes would spill over the cash registers. It is indeed this model that created the sneaker boom in Japan.”
On the left is the original, and on the right is the 2020 reissue model. Although the sizes of the shoeboxes differ, the design from back then has been effectively reproduced.
Kamamoto also shares his unique perspective on the sneaker boom.
 
"The era around 1992, when vintage models like Nike's Dunk High and Air Jordan 1 became popular, is referred to as the 'first sneaker boom.' The era of 'Air Max 95,' which caused social phenomena such as 'Air Max hunting,' is referred to as the 'second sneaker boom.'
 
"However, considering that even my parents' generation knew about the 'Air Max 95,' it must have had quite a broad appeal. The vintage Dunk High and Air Jordan 1 were trends that emerged within a small community of fashion enthusiasts, but if we consider that it reached the masses, I believe it's reasonable to think that the 'first sneaker boom' actually began with the 'Air Max 95.'
 
"It is not an exaggeration to say that this model created Japan's sneaker boom."
 
From a single running shoe, Japan's sneaker culture was born.

Is the Yellow Gradient “Big Bubble” Making a Comeback!?

This year marks the 30th anniversary of the "Air Max 95." Given the anniversary year, a revival is highly anticipated. Regarding this situation, Kamamoto shared the following.
Takuya Kimura wore this red gradient model, inspired by Japan's plum blossoms, on the cover of "Shukan Asahi." It was released in August 2021 for 29,700 yen (tax included).
"Since this is an anniversary year, it seems that a popular yellow gradient version with a larger heel airbag, commonly referred to as the 'Big Bubble,' will be released. It's already been reported that this was guerrilla sold at a vintage shop called 'Blue-room' in Shibuya."
 
It seems likely that the revival of the yellow gradient will take place this year, but competition for it appears to be intense.
 
When asked about the charm of the 'Air Max 95,' Kamamoto responded:
A hybrid model featuring the "Vapor Max" sole on the "Air Max 95." Apparently, this version offers even more comfort. Released in August 2018 for 18,700 yen (tax included).
"In fact, after the boom passed, the popularity of the 'Air Max 95' rapidly declined. When it was re-released in '97, its popularity was still intact, but with each subsequent re-release, the excitement diminished. By the 2010s, it was no longer a sneaker that young people desired; instead, it became a model appreciated by the middle-aged who remembered its past popularity.
 
"However, when I went to New York around 2019, I noticed that staff at high-end shops and stylish people walking the streets were wearing the 'Air Max 95.' Those influences led to its revival in popularity, and it has established itself as a model that the current generation of youths admire.
A collaboration model with the Japanese sweat brand "Loopwheeler." This model incorporates the brushed side of the sweatshirt in the liner and features asymmetrical colors on the heel and tongue's backside. Released in December 2019 for 27,500 yen (tax included).
"From my perspective, I feel that the 'Air Max 95' is becoming a timeless classic, much like the 'Air Jordan 1' or 'Air Force 1.' I'm looking forward to the excitement it will bring on March 26 for 'Air Max Day.'"
 
The "Air Max 95," which gave birth to Japan's sneaker culture, will likely change the weight of the steps one takes as they learn about its models, history, and roots.
 
Today is the long-awaited "Air Max Day." Spending the day in the "Air Max 95" that holds personal significance is a wonderful way to commemorate it.

PROFILE

Katsushige Kamamoto

Katsushige Kamamoto, President of Sneaker Shop SKIT

Born in Aomori Prefecture in 1978. After graduating from high school, he moved to Tokyo, gained experience working in a sneaker shop, and opened SKIT's first store in Kichijoji in 2001. With extensive knowledge about sneakers and exceptional expertise in the industry, many sneaker fans flock to his shops. He has also appeared in the film "Sneakerheads," capturing attention from sneakerheads overseas. Currently, he operates stores in Kichijoji, Osaka, Sendai, and Fukuoka.

Sneaker Shop SKIT, Tokyo - Kichijoji Location
1-18-1 Minamimachi, Musashino City, Tokyo, D-ASSET Kichijoji 1F
TEL: 0422-47-6671
Business Hours: 11:00 AM - 7:00 PM
https://www.k-skit.com/

Photo by Hiroyuki “Lily” Suzuki (STUDIO LOG)
Text by Yasuyuki Ushijima (NO-TECH)

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