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Fueled by G-DRAGON: The Enduring Hype Behind Nike's Air More Uptempo
Famous for the massive "AIR" lettering splashed across its sides, Nike's Air More Uptempo has transcended its basketball roots to become a beloved icon of street fashion ever since its 1996 debut.
In Japan, however, the shoe's journey has been a rollercoaster. While a K-pop superstar ignited a massive craze, its popularity and perception have fluctuated wildly over the years.
In this article, we sit down with Katsushige Kamamoto, founder of the sneaker shop SKIT, to trace the model's history of hype and evolution from its birth to today, uncovering the timeless appeal of the Air More Uptempo.
A Radical Design Inspired by Graffiti
In 1996, a sneaker unlike any other made its debut in Nike's basketball lineup: the AIR MORE UPTEMPO, affectionately known as the "Moreten." Its most defining feature is the gigantic "AIR" lettering that boldly stretches across the side panels. This groundbreaking design was the brainchild of Wilson Smith, who is regarded as one of Nike's first Black designers.
"He's one of the designers who dedicated many years to Nike, also working on the Air Jordan 16, Air Jordan 17, and signature models for Charles Barkley and Serena Williams.
As for the design's inspiration, one story is that it was inspired by urban graffiti, while another interview mentions he drew inspiration from massive sculptures like the 'LOVE' object in Shinjuku. The influence of graffiti is undeniable, but it seems these large-scale art pieces were also part of his mood board. At the same time, the design also served to highlight a key feature: the full-length 'AIR' unit."
It wasn't just the design that made an impact; the technology was also state-of-the-art. True to its name, the midsole featured a full-length Max Air unit packing the largest volume of "Air" to date. It was a sneaker that embodied Nike's core "AIR" technology, both visually and functionally.
The "Moreten" is famously associated with Chicago Bulls star Scottie Pippen. However, Kamamoto recalls that when the shoe first launched in Japan, Pippen's popularity wasn't the direct driver of sales on the streets.
“People who wore them simply because they were fans of Pippen were pretty rare back then,” he says. “Rather than being popular among hardcore basketball fans, it caught on as a fashion item right from the start. My impression is that it was never really viewed strictly as a basketball shoe.”
While Pippen was the face of the shoe, the stark contrast between his quiet, understated personality and the "Moreten's" loud, assertive design created a promotional dynamic that ironically made the sneaker's presence feel even bigger.
Kamamoto speculates that its bulky, unique silhouette fit perfectly with '90s fashion, which is likely why it was so readily embraced by the street style scene. The "Moreten" is one of those rare basketball shoes that established its legendary status on the streets first, not on the court.
The Craze in Japan, Ignited by G-DRAGON
After the '90s boom subsided, the Moreten wouldn't return to the spotlight in Japan until the 2010s. This time, the spark wasn't an NBA superstar, but a Korean artist.
"The resurgence of the 'Moreten,' as it's nicknamed in Japan, was definitely ignited by G-DRAGON from BIGBANG. Their popularity exploded once he started wearing them in his outfits and for ad campaigns. When a retro model was released during the 2012 Olympic year, the boom became unstoppable."
This trend was reportedly a phenomenon unique to Asia, primarily centered around Japan and South Korea. Kamamoto, who frequently went on overseas buying trips at the time, says he experienced this difference in hype firsthand.
"While they were wildly popular among young people during the peak of the trend, the main demographic buying them at SKIT today has shifted. It's now centered on customers in their late 30s to 50s—the generation with strong nostalgic memories of the shoe's original release—rather than teens and those in their early 20s."
Even with the introduction of sandal and low-cut versions, that dynamic has not changed. A shoe that was once on the cutting edge of street style has now shifted its role, becoming an item that sparks nostalgia for the specific generations who experienced the '90s boom and the 2010s craze.
The Enduring Allure of the Moreten Through the Ages
Kamamoto himself is an avid collector who, at one point, owned around 60 different Moreten colorways, including models never released in Japan. Yet, he admits that as times have changed, he has also started to feel a certain distance from the shoe.
"In today's sneaker market, the mainstream has shifted towards minimalist, functional, and refined designs, as seen with brands like 'Salomon' and 'On.' The Moreten's bold, in-your-face aesthetic might just be the polar opposite of current trends.
But that doesn't mean its innovative design has lost its luster. It's incredibly rare for a former basketball shoe to be this beloved, and the Moreten possesses a timeless appeal. Even as eras shift and our criteria for what's 'cool' change, the impact the Moreten etched into sneaker history is permanent."
A day may come when a new fashion icon in G-DRAGON's vein rediscovers its value. Until it has its happy reunion with the zeitgeist, the "Air More Uptempo" will continue to radiate its one-of-a-kind presence, quietly waiting for its next turn in the spotlight.
PROFILE
Katsushige Kamamoto
Director of sneaker shop SKIT
Born in Aomori Prefecture in 1978. After graduating from high school, he moved to Tokyo, where he gained retail experience at a sneaker shop before opening the first SKIT location in Kichijoji in 2001. Thanks to his extensive knowledge of sneakers and his industry-leading expert eye, the shop attracts countless sneaker enthusiasts. His influence extends globally, with his activities closely followed by sneakerheads worldwide, and he even appeared in the film "スニーカーヘッズ". Today, SKIT has expanded beyond Kichijoji to include stores in Osaka, Sendai, and Fukuoka.
Sneaker Shop SKIT Tokyo-Kichijoji
D-ASSET Kichijoji 1F, 1-18-1 Kichijoji Minami-cho, Musashino-shi, Tokyo. TEL: 0422-47-6671. Hours: 11:00 AM – 7:00 PM. https://www.k-skit.com/
Photo by Hiroyuki “Lily” Suzuki (StudioLog)
Text by Yasuyuki Ushijima (NO-TECH)
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