Articles

"If You Don’t Buy It Now, You’ll Never Get One"—The Values & Future Seen by a Specialty Old Stussy Store

2025.06.06

With the vintage boom heating up these days, old "Stussy" pieces—manufactured from the 1980s to the early 2000s—have become some of the most collectible items out there. Stussy, founded in 1980 by Shawn Stussy, has roots in surf and skate culture and remains a popular brand on the street scene today.

Koenji’s vintage shop curb (Koenji) specializes in Old Stussy from the '80s to early 2000s, focusing primarily on T-shirts, and is loved among enthusiasts. We spoke with the owner, Yo Kamimura, about the shop's beginnings and the current state of the scene.

PROFILE

Yo Kamimura

Owner of "curb (Koenji)"

Launched as a web shop in 2021, then opened the physical "curb Koenji" store in 2023. In addition, "curb Other Side" also operates in Koenji, and "curb Shimokitazawa" in Shimokitazawa.

A Skate Deck at Home Since Childhood: Kamimura’s Encounter with Stussy

You opened in July 2023, but what prompted you to launch the store?

After graduating from college, I worked part-time at a secondhand clothing shop, always wanting to go independent someday. I quit the job and in 2021, started the online shop "curb Koenji"—that was the beginning. I’d always wanted a physical storefront, and when I finally found this place, I jumped at the opportunity and opened here.

What originally sparked your interest in secondhand clothing?

Moving to Tokyo to start college, I started visiting thrift shops more often. I’d enjoyed vintage clothing since high school, but couldn’t afford much back then. Once I was earning from part-time jobs as a college student, I really dove into it.

Having more free time at university also meant I could visit shops more frequently. My school was in Kichijoji, and I often visited shops in the conveniently located neighborhoods of Shimokitazawa and Koenji. While regularly checking out different stores, I noticed a job opening at a shop in Shimokitazawa and started working there.

Have you always been into Stussy?

It’s not like I was obsessed from the start. I used to skateboard for fun, and some of my friends would ride wearing Stussy tees, whether vintage or new, so the brand always felt close.

The more I watched them style their looks, the more interested I became, and I started picking up Stussy pieces here and there. Also, my dad, a surfer, has always been familiar with the street scene—he’s long loved wearing brands like Stussy and Carhartt that share a similar vibe. That probably rubbed off on me. The fact that I started skating was actually because my dad’s deck was always at home.

What inspired you to open a shop focused solely on Old Stussy?

Actually, when we opened, we didn’t carry only Old Stussy—the shop was half Stussy, and the other half featured regular vintage like Ralph Lauren, Carhartt, plus art and movie T-shirts and so on.

Last July, when we opened another store in Koenji, I moved all non-Stussy pieces over to the new location to make this store 100% Old Stussy. When it comes to tees, we always have over 300 in stock, mainly early 2000s items, with some dating back as far as the late '80s.

Sweatshirts are also in demand, just like the tees. Classic pieces from the late '80s to the '90s line the shelves.

From a business owner's perspective, doesn't it take quite a bit of courage to focus solely on Old Stussy?

It's obvious, but if customers start wanting items other than Stussy, that could be the end for us—so I am prepared for a certain level of business difficulty. On the flip side though, our store concept is unique and not found elsewhere, so that's how we've positioned ourselves in the market.

The main reason I started my vintage clothing shop was simply because I didn't want to do the same thing as everyone else. When I considered what I really want to do, opening a shop specializing in the Old Stussy I love just felt completely natural to me; it didn't feel strange at all.

The Ever-rising Old Stussy, Especially T-shirts—What Does the Future Hold?

With other skate brands like Powell and Santa Cruz out there, why did you choose Stussy?

If I had to name one main appeal, it would be the T-shirt print designs. Especially the photo prints and the original characters—you could truly call them art pieces due to their outstanding artistry.

And then there are parody motifs of high-end brands, which couldn't be produced nowadays due to copyright and publicity right issues. Even now, these feel incredibly fresh. Besides the prints, the ever-changing tag designs—black, navy, silver, etc.—and the subtle differences in sizing depending on the era are unique draws only Old Stussy can offer.

The vintage T-shirt market is booming, especially for band and movie shirts—but what about Old Stussy?

It's insanely popular, and there just aren't many products in circulation. Lately, not only in Japan but also in places like America and Thailand, there’s a huge buzz.

At "curb," we frequently get Asian customers, especially from Korea. Until recently, most visitors were in their twenties, but lately it feels like we’re seeing more people in their 30s to 40s. It's not uncommon for people who loved Stussy as kids to start collecting it again as adults.

When it comes to items, T-shirts and patterned shirts—shirts in general—are super popular. Condition and size matter, but among T-shirts, the ones fetching the highest prices are the standout photo print designs. The T-shirts here are typically going for around 18,000 to 28,000 yen. Personally, I recommend the photo print T-shirts produced in the early 2000s.

XL is the go-to size in the vintage T-shirt scene, but what about Old Stussy?

For Stussy, "L" is the top pick. The thing is, "XL" for Stussy is seriously huge, so if you want that relaxed, modern fit and have an average Japanese body type, "L" is just right.

That said, older releases from the 80s and 90s aren’t as oversized, so even "XL" could work—but honestly, you hardly ever see those in the market. On the other hand, pieces from 2000 onwards tend to have a larger fit.

How do you source your stock?

Around 80 to 90% comes from domestic suppliers, with the rest coming from online markets or buying directly from customers at our store. Plus, once every two months, I go to Thailand to source items, but typically buy a few pieces from familiar dealers rather than huge quantities.

With Stussy being such a popular brand, there must be a lot of bootlegs around. How did you develop that discerning eye for authenticity?

Honestly, I think wearing and buying Old Stussy myself has been the best training. When I source items, I buy from knowledgeable, trustworthy dealers and shops—handling genuine items directly has helped me learn their unique traits firsthand.

I also regularly chat with older collectors who lived through those eras to hear stories and get firsthand info. Fortunately, I have lots of connections, including pros who used to work at Chapters (official shops), so I’ve learned a ton from those experts.

What do you think the future holds for Old Stussy?

Interest is surging, and honestly, less stock is finding its way to market. It’s getting genuinely hard to find these days.

Band and movie tees might be skyrocketing in price, but if you have the cash, they're still out there. With Old Stussy, though, the pieces just aren't available—even if you have the money, you can’t buy them.

Moving forward, whenever rare pieces—especially T-shirts with popular prints—pop up, I bet the market price will keep breaking new records. That's how much their value is increasing.

Store Information:
curb Koenji
Address: 3-55-2 Koenji Minami, Suginami-ku, Tokyo
Phone number: 080-8106-1089
Business hours: Weekdays 2:00 PM - 10:00 PM (Weekends 1:00 PM - 10:00 PM)
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Text by Kei Osawa