Korean Traditional "Nubi" Bags: Why "pionunnal" Is Gaining Support from Moms

Since its establishment in 2019, the brand "pionunnal" has rapidly grown into a brand that people describe as "unattainable," despite being sold exclusively online through word of mouth.

The washable bags made from Korea's traditional fabric, "Nubi," have gained immense popularity as parents’ bags. During a pop-up event held at Isetan Shinjuku during the COVID-19 pandemic, the line for these bags extended outside the building. They sold a week's worth of stock in just three days, marking the highest attendance for a pop-up in Isetan's history—a record yet to be broken.

What accounts for this level of support? We spoke with the founder, Geum-Seon Cha (車琴仙), to understand the charm of Nubi and the brand's commitment.

The Interesting Functionality of Nubi that Changes with Stitch Width

So, what exactly is the traditional Korean fabric "Nubi"?

Nubi is a quilt that has been passed down in Korea. Originally, quilting originated in Mongolia, and over time it divided into Eastern and Western styles, each evolving its own unique cultures. For example, Hawaiian quilts are said to have come from Europe.

"Nubi" is a traditional Korean craft characterized by vertical stitching.

Why did you decide to use Nubi?

One reason is that although I was born and raised in Japan, I have Korean roots. The Nubi fabric, which has spread in Japan as "Ibul" (イブル, which comes from the Korean word for "futon"), is a fabric that every household in Korea must have as part of its traditional crafts. I wanted more people to appreciate the utility of Nubi, so I decided to create bags as a "washable" fashion icon.

The other reason is the quality of the material. Nubi is difficult to penetrate with wind due to the fine stitching and does not absorb water easily. Additionally, since it has padding, it dries quickly. For instance, if it's sunny, a futon can dry in about 20 minutes, and it's easy to remove stains, making it an ideal material for bags used daily.

Your company offers Nubi with two stitch widths—are there differences?

We use traditional stitch widths of 3mm and 7mm. Recently, various shaped stitches such as cloud and heart shapes have emerged in the market, but I believe those passed down through the ages excel in functionality.

For example, the 3mm stitch is finely detailed, making it very sturdy. In our drawstring bags like "SOMETHING" and "BALLERINA," if we used 7mm, it would take up more space and make it difficult for the string to close, so 3mm is just right. In Korea, it's also used for finely sewn items such as women's and children’s clothing.

Meanwhile, the 7mm stitch results in more padding, enhancing cold resistance and making for a softer texture. The appearance also becomes puffy, giving it a gentle vibe; therefore, we use 7mm for larger tote bags like "MOVE," which is iconic for us. In Korea, it has been used in bedding, rugs, military uniforms, and cold-weather garments like "Jeogori."

Materials Sourced from Korea, Sewing in Japan: A Bag Completed through Korean-Japanese Fusion

Is there a reason why sewing is done in Japan?

Initially, we conducted the sewing in Korea, but due to the unstable logistics from Korea during the pandemic, we switched to sewing in Japan. We currently manage Nubi fabric in a spacious warehouse in Japan, ensuring hygiene and safety.

Furthermore, as Nubi has a two-layer structure with padding, it tends to shift or become uneven, making sewing quite challenging.

The "LADY" bag could only be made due to Japan’s sewing prowess. This bag features trim hand-stitched by artisans, and by including a base plate, it maintains its shape even when carrying a laptop or children's items.

Recently, we also released items in original colors dyed in Japan. Due to the complex dyeing process, it takes about two months to complete, but we can now achieve vibrant dye colors. The water-repellent Nubi fabric is unique to Pionunnal.

Is it true that Nubi has been a traditional fabric for a long time, but was there ever a time when bags didn't exist?

Until now, it has primarily been used in home fabrics. Therefore, it seems quite rare that it has emerged as a fashion element, as seen with our products.

The Strengths of Pionunnal, the Catalyst for the Nubi Bag Boom

Nubi bags are now popular, but what are your company’s strengths?

Our strength lies in a simple design that is easy for anyone to use at any time.

First of all, because of the simplicity of the design and its vibrant colors, it can coexist beautifully with bags from other brands, which has contributed to its popularity as a sub-bag.

However, because it is simple, we pay attention to the details. I believe that a simple design is something that is loved for a long time and is easy to use. For this reason, we minimize the use of buttons and zippers, and we have carefully considered the size and position of inside pockets multiple times to ensure they are smartly placed for a woman’s graceful gestures.

Furthermore, regarding the straps, we made them wide enough to prevent them from digging into the shoulder even when carrying heavy items, thus reducing the strain on the body while maintaining a light and airy appearance.

The high-quality sewing represented by this strap is also one of the strengths of Pionunnal. Since Nubi has padding, its thin portions tend to get distorted easily. For that reason, many products come with thicker straps, but we believe this slenderness is crucial.

Additionally, we incorporate consumer perspectives in product development, and feedback on usability has been very positive. I take pride in the fact that our attention to detail and sewing skills, along with the stories behind each product and bag, have influenced women’s fashion, particularly among Japanese mothers.

You have grown into a popular brand, but has production increased?

We can produce more, but we prefer not to do so if we can help it. This is because a lot of it is done manually, and as workers become accustomed, there’s a tendency to rush and resulting errors are more likely. We believe that our current production system, where we focus on producing smaller quantities rigorously, is the best approach.

What are your future plans?

Previously, our bags were mainly used as sub-bags, but we are considering them for use as main bags as well. We will continue to create bags tailored to their intended uses, valuing customer feedback.

We are also considering global expansion, starting next year with a focus on Asia. I’m really looking forward to introducing the beauty of Nubi to many more people.

Pionunnal was born from a desire to promote Nubi to a wider audience and has been loved by many users in Japan. The future developments are definitely worth watching.