The Power of Fashion Coming from War-Torn Kyiv: How the Ukranian "PODYH" Transforms Architecture into Clothing

Honoring Ukraine's architectural heritage and passing it on to future generations—. The women's wear brand "PODYH," which integrates architecture and fashion based in Kyiv, is progressing toward realizing this noble mission.

Founded by designer Daria Plaksyuk in 2020 with hopeful aspirations, the brand faced the unfortunate circumstance of halting operations due to the Russian invasion of Ukraine that began the following year, disrupting daily life and imposing significant challenges.

"The tumultuous days became a turning point, transforming the brand," she recalls, as she continues to devote herself to creating collections in Kyiv. We spoke with her about her thoughts and journey as she dedicates herself to preserving and passing on her country's cultural heritage through fashion.

Many fashion designers find commonalities in the design philosophy of fashion and architecture, drawing inspiration from buildings. However, "PODYH," originating from Kyiv, not only draws inspiration but also views architecture as cultural heritage at the core of the brand.

"Many of Ukraine's historical buildings, which are part of our heritage, are now severely deteriorated or destroyed due to the invasion from Russia," Daria began, slightly downcast.

"Buildings reflect the complex history of the eras they inhabit, serving as a remarkable heritage that connects us to our ancestors. As I delved into this heritage, I was able to feel the immeasurable cultural depth and multifaceted talents of the Ukrainian people. 'PODYH' is not just a brand; our mission is to connect people with the world of architecture and emphasize its cultural and artistic value."

The collections previously presented were created by exploring specific architectural styles and historical contexts in Ukraine.

For instance, the "Dranka Cape" is a reinterpretation of a defensively fortified outpost covered with unbreakable wooden boards.

The "Vitryak Bag" reflects the shape of traditional Ukrainian wooden windmills, and the design is inspired by the "Gromovyk," a charm sculpted with six petals, created by cutting out fabric to depict the motif.

Daria spends a significant amount of time researching buildings during the creation process.

"If I am captivated by a particular building, I first explore its architectural style, materials, and colors in detail. By discovering why these were chosen, I connect with the thoughts of the architects and craftsmen who created the building.

"This process plays an important role in capturing the atmosphere of the collection and recreating the spirit of the era. I translate the techniques of architectural craftsmen into the language of fashion, incorporating each element's composition, shape, material, and color to create new collections."

The features of "PODYH"'s works are sharp lines, diverse textures, and quiet elegance. The blend of Ukrainian architecture and clothing beautifully gives rise to the creations of "PODYH." The color palette highlights the strictness of the buildings while maintaining the monumental nature of the works with subdued colors.

"By merging fashion and architecture, I aim to create wearable art that tells stories and sparks conversations," Daria explains. All her creations are produced in Ukraine, realized through collaboration with local workshops and artisans in Kyiv.

Her commitment to minimizing waste through small-batch production and upcycling surplus materials has become an unwavering principle of the brand since its inception.

Daria's origins trace back to her memories of spending time at a sewing factory with her grandmother when she was five years old. “My grandmother taught me knitting, embroidery, and sewing. At that moment, I believe I already unconsciously understood the path I should take,” she reflects.

She majored in architecture at university and gained experience at an interior design company in Kyiv after graduation. The hobby she started to alleviate her work fatigue was knitting, a skill passed down from her grandmother. The sweaters she knitted as gifts for family and friends received rave reviews, prompting her to pursue further skills by enrolling in a fashion school.

“I launched my brand in 2020, but I felt something was missing. At the same time, I was uncertain whether the transition from architecture to fashion was the right choice.”

However, while developing a new backpack, she had an epiphany when the design reminded her of Kyiv’s renowned architecture, the “Salut Hotel.” At that moment, everything clicked into place.

“I realized that I don’t have to choose between architecture and fashion. Combining these two passions is the path I should take.”

This realization culminated in the “Kyiv Modernism” collection, inspired by Ukraine's modernist architecture from the 1960s to 1980s.

The skills and historical knowledge she cultivated in architecture have formed the creative foundation of “PODYH,” shaping a unique aesthetic. For her, it was the moment when points connected into lines, illuminating a new path.

The Reason for Continuing Fashion Creation Amidst War

While her business was growing primarily in Europe, her peaceful daily life was disrupted by the Russian military invasion that began in February 2022.

After canceling a collection set to launch in March of that year, she expressed despair, stating, “I will never restart 'PODYH.'” It was like wandering through a long, dark tunnel with no end in sight. Gradually, she began to rise again and look forward, attributing this to a renewed recognition of Ukraine's unique identity.

“As I navigated through those tumultuous days, I began to deeply reconsider Ukraine's history, our ancestors, and their struggles. A few months later, I was driven by a strong desire to focus on Ukrainian architecture, its beauty, and its cultural value. This became a turning point for 'PODYH,' where I vowed to celebrate Ukraine's architectural heritage and pass it on through fashion,” she states.

Amid many citizens leaving their homeland as refugees, Daria made the resolute decision to remain in Kyiv without hesitation.

“Ukraine is a country with a unique identity, rich history, diverse culture, and stunning natural scenery. Traditional values coexist with modern innovation. Even in times of war, the people take pride in their heritage and believe in the future.

"I love my homeland. I want to continue living in this land, which is my hometown and source of creativity, exploring nature, architecture, and culture.”

Energetically active, she has expanded her offerings to include wooden candle holders inspired by architectural sculptures, in addition to seasonal collections.

“Even while facing the challenges of war, 'PODYH' will never cease to reinterpret, protect, and celebrate the cultural heritage handed down from our predecessors.” Her words carried unwavering determination.

In the city of Kyiv, where air raid sirens continue to sound, she tirelessly dedicates herself to collection production.