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Meeting the Founder of Patagonia – Unveiling the Technological Expertise of Polartec, the Originator of Fleece

2024.12.24

When you think of outdoor brand Patagonia, many people might immediately picture "Synchilla." It's become synonymous with fleece and it's no exaggeration to say that all fleece began from here.

However, how many people know that this fleece was brought to life through the technology of a fabric manufacturer called Polartec?

This time, I spoke to Keisuke Hasunuma from SCT Japan, Polartec's Japanese agent, about the development history of fleece and the technological prowess exhibited by Polartec in offering a wide variety of fleece types.

PROFILE

Keisuke Hasunuma

Sales & Marketing Department, SCT Japan Co., Ltd.

Joined in 2019 and handles agency operations for Polartec.

The Untold Story of Fleece Development

Could you tell us about the history of Polartec?

Back in 1865, the precursor to Polartec, a spinning factory named Malden Mills, was established in Boston, USA.

Boston is an extremely cold area, and at that time, they were producing American military coats and upholstery fabrics using wool. After World War II, they began dealing with polyester fibers as well.

In the 1950s, faux fur became a huge trend in the fashion industry, and Malden Mills saw its success skyrocket through its production.

What was the development process of fleece like?

The development of fleece began from a serendipitous encounter between Patagonia's founder, Yvon Chouinard, and Malden Mills.

As an outdoor climber, Yvon was intrigued by chemical fibers that dried quickly when wet. His wife Malinda spotted and purchased faux fur at a wholesale center in Los Angeles.

Using that faux fur, Yvon crafted a sweater and conducted field tests under various conditions. Although there were issues like pilling and an unappealing appearance, the material was notably warm and quick-drying.

This led to Malden Mills being commissioned to develop something robust enough for outdoor usage.

Are there any stories about the development of fleece from that time?

Creating a material that had never existed before was reportedly a challenging task as they had to meet multiple standards.

Synchilla was made after overcoming several prototypes. Initially, a felt made of synthetic fibers was developed and, upon its commercialization, was met with high praise.

The development progressed further, leading to the creation of a fleece with a brushed finish on both sides. It possessed a velvety touch and beautiful luster akin to chinchilla velvet, merging the words synthetic and chinchilla to create the name "Synchilla."

Unveiling Polartec's Technological Expertise

What are the characteristics of Polartec's fleece?

One of the standout features is its lightweight warmth with excellent breathability, a result of the knowledge cultivated since its founding.

For instance, achieving lightness requires innovation in knitting. By using circular knitting machines and loosely knitting the fabric, fibers are spaced apart, making the fabric lighter and enhancing breathability, preventing stuffiness.

Regarding warmth, brushing is key. It's not just about brushing but also adjusting factors like needle hardness, angle, and rotation speed. This allows for the creation of lofty, long-pile brushed fleece that retains warm air, enhancing insulation.

I heard Polartec develops clothing by dividing it into three parts.

Polartec's strength lies in its ability to complete the "layering system" in-house. They envision three broad layers and develop fabrics suitable for each.

Firstly, the base layer. Think of it as akin to underwear, with fabrics used for clothing that touches the skin directly. These fabrics have effects such as moisture-wicking, breathability, and antibacterial odor elimination.

Next, there's the insulation category focusing on warmth, which includes fleece.

Lastly, weather protection corresponds to outer layers. In this category, you'll find materials with breathable waterproof functions.

Can you tell us about specific products?

Polartec offers multiple styles within a single fabric category. For instance, in the insulation category, there are fleeces designed with outerwear in mind, such as the "Wind Pro" material.

This provides the same lightness and warmth as regular fleece but boasts four times the wind resistance compared to other products. This wind resistance is achieved through tight knitting, which enhances its effectiveness. Additionally, since it doesn't have a membrane like shells, it ensures proper breathability.

Are there other notable fleeces?

There's something called "Thermal Pro." This is distinguished as the most design-oriented fabric among Polartec's offerings.

While its functionality doesn't differ from regular fleece, it's a fabric category rich in design, including options like boa fleece, sweater looks, and ribbed looks.

The comfortable texture of "Boa Fleece" is evident from the material aspect

Is the sheer variety intended to compete with other brands' products?

Polartec's stance is to develop what they believe is necessary.

They also engage in joint development with brands like Patagonia. Ideas often become more refined through communication with brands.

Their goal is to create a more comfortable clothing environment through continuous material research, product development, and field testing.

Polartec's Future Prospects

Please tell us about future product developments.

One focus is on active insulation, which maintains moderate warmth during activity and prevents clamminess and overheating.

Polartec's representative material is "Alpha," the original active insulation. It's knitted even looser than regular fleece, thin enough for visibility through to the other side.

The "Alpha" material is sheer enough to see through

Originally developed for the US military's special forces, its high performance is widely acknowledged.

Currently, "Alpha" enjoys strong support in the outdoor gear industry and is used in items like running vests. It is also used in outer jackets as an alternative to down, especially in today's mild winters.

Another focus area is sustainable development. Polartec has been manufacturing fleece using recycled polyester for over 30 years and is expected to accelerate this trend.

For example, PFAS-free water repellents that don't use organic fluorine compounds are being used, along with mint-derived components for antibacterial and deodorizing treatments.

Additionally, they are focusing on developing products using plant-based materials like cellulose and hemp.

Environmental consideration through PFAS-free materials

Their development approach is based on ensuring that functionality is effectively delivered while adding the sustainable concept.

You can look forward to groundbreaking products that exceed the current clothing norms, as they continue to advance product development with functionality and environmental consideration in mind.