Behind the Scenes of Tamurakoma's Next-Generation Polyester Development: Creating "Policott," the Functional Material That "Surpasses Cotton"

Policott, a next-generation polyester combining a cotton-like feel with high performance, has become a popular material gaining widespread support through crowdfunding.

It all began about a decade ago with a developer's drive to "unlock the potential of polyester."

We interviewed Yoshiki Oka of Tamurakoma Co., Ltd. to learn about the decade-long trial-and-error journey of taking a single material beyond the boundaries of sportswear to create new value in the fashion world.

"Saturation" Beyond the Post-Disaster Demand Surge and a New Challenge

In April 2011, right after the Great East Japan Earthquake, society as a whole was engaged in power-saving efforts. In the apparel industry, demand for functional materials—such as moisture-absorbing, quick-drying, and cool-to-the-touch fabrics—reached unprecedented heights. Oka, who belonged to the synthetic fiber division at Tamurakoma, was right in the middle of this special demand boom. However, that momentum fizzled out after about two years. The market flipped to excess inventory, forcing production adjustments.

As the frenzy of the special demand subsided, Oka began to feel a certain "fatigue" with 100% polyester materials. While highly acclaimed in sportswear and uniforms, he felt too much was sacrificed in terms of everyday wearability in exchange for that functionality.

"Until then, our materials were high-performance for sportswear, but when it came to everyday clothes, they suffered from a shiny, synthetic look and feel, and the comfort couldn't match cotton," Oka explains.

As Oka notes, the market back then was split between "functional sportswear" and "fashionable natural materials." He saw that this very dichotomy held the potential for a whole new market. Deciding to leverage Tamurakoma's strength in polyester to pioneer this untapped segment, his determination became the starting point for developing the next-generation polyester, "Policott."

Through trial and error, Oka came across yarn spun from polyester "staple fibers" (short fibers). At a time when most polyester products on the market used continuous filament (long fibers), he intentionally focused on short fibers—which are chopped into a cotton-like form before spinning—because they could replicate the soft, natural feel of cotton.

However, short fibers carried an inherent flaw: pilling. Friction causes fibers to fray and entangle into small balls—a fatal flaw especially for sportswear and uniforms that demand durability. Overcoming this issue was an absolute prerequisite for balancing fashion and functionality.

The solution came in the form of the MVS (Murata Vortex Spinner), an air-jet spinning machine developed by Murata Machinery, Ltd. In the textile industry, yarn spun with the MVS was widely known for its exceptional anti-pilling properties.

"In our industry, MVS is common knowledge. Since physical properties are crucial for materials sold as sportswear or uniforms, using this yarn was practically a given right from the start," Oka says.

Rather than choosing it from among many options, it was an inevitable choice driven by the pursuit of top quality. Thus, "Policott" gained the foundation needed to achieve two conflicting qualities: a cotton-like touch and physical durability that could withstand the demands of sportswear.

Even after selecting the best yarn, development was only halfway there. The next major hurdle was the processing stage—dyeing and finishing the fabric. Here, they were once again confronted with the trade-off between "texture" and "functionality."

"To improve the feel, using more fabric softener, for example, ends up impeding absorbency. I remember going through endless trial and error to strike the right balance."

In the midst of this trial and error, Oka focused on "heat." Polyester is typically dyed at high temperatures, but using the same method was found to ruin Policott's delicate feel, making it stiff. Setting aside conventional wisdom, he wondered if lowering the dyeing temperature below normal could help preserve the texture.

What followed was a painstaking process of verification born out of sheer persistence. To find the optimal balance, Oka worked closely with engineers at the processing factory, holding repeated, tenacious discussions.

"We produced multiple fabrics in parallel at roughly 5°C increments, carefully checking the functionality and texture of each one."

This intense fine-tuning around a mere 5°C difference proved to be the breakthrough needed to find the optimal solution. Policott's quality—where texture, stretchiness, and functionality all exist in delicate harmony—is backed by such meticulous testing on the factory floor.

Policott was not a product that ended once it was created. Oka reflects that the real development actually began after it hit the market. Over the 10 years since its initial release, the team has repeatedly made fine updates in pursuit of ideal quality.

"At the time, we thought it was a 90 or 95 out of 100 when we released it, but every day a desire arose to make it just a little better. Over these 10 years, we've continually refined it step by step, and I feel the quality of the T-shirts sold on Makuake has finally reached a final form to some extent."

It truly represents a culmination of technologies. Policott was brought to completion by combining multiple techniques: staple fibers that create a cotton-like texture, full-dull raw materials that prevent see-through while providing UV protection and heat insulation, cross-sectional yarns that boost water absorption and quick-drying properties, MVS spinning to prevent pilling, and special processing that brings out an exquisite feel. A few years ago, the raw materials were switched from petroleum-derived to recycled PET bottles, achieving sustainability while maintaining quality.

This combination of technologies has earned high praise from users, with feedback highlighting its "smooth, non-sticky texture," "quick-drying properties after washing," and "wrinkle resistance."

Although Policott has reached its "final form" after 10 years, its evolution isn't stopping. While fabric sales had previously been primarily B2B, taking its success on Makuake as a stepping stone, the company now plans to sell finished products on its own e-commerce site.

"First and foremost, our goal is to get this current fabric into the hands of as many people as possible. On top of that, we are moving forward with plans to expand our line of T-shirt materials."

Oka's vision extends far beyond the domestic market. Looking ahead to the Spring/Summer 2027 season, he is setting his sights on international crowdfunding platforms like Kickstarter. A story that began with one individual's personal dissatisfaction is now poised to cross oceans. Refined over a decade, Policott continues to update both its materials and finished products today. As a next-generation polyester that balances functionality and soft texture, it remains in continuous evolution through ongoing improvements.