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Reviving Tradition & Creating New Value with the Purely Domestic Ryukyu Panama Hat: "Ryukyu Panama by MAISON Birth"
"MAISON Birth" is a brand renowned for its high-quality, made-in-Japan hats with the concept of "the inheritable hat." Among their fine offerings, one project the brand has dedicated years to is the "Ryukyu Panama Hat." This time, let's shine a spotlight on "Ryukyu Panama by MAISON Birth".
We spoke with Seita Kiyohara, MAISON Birth's designer and the CEO of PERIODOS Co., Ltd.
Brand Concept: The Inheritable Hat
Before diving into the story of the Ryukyu Panama Hat, let's get to know the brand MAISON Birth a little more. The brand is widely recognized across Japan, handled by top department stores and time-honored hat specialty shops such as "Ginza Toraya Hat Shop." Here's a quick overview."We started the brand in 2010, and began full-scale operations in the spring/summer of 2011. Our brand concept is 'the inheritable hat.' By combining carefully selected materials, unique sewing methods, and patterns, we create hats that can be washed, resist losing shape, and can be enjoyed for many years.
Our concept also includes the idea of 'shared use,' so we don't create distinctions like men's or women's categories. All of our hats are offered in unisex designs."
The Journey Began with the Ancient Okinawan Adan Leaf
We asked Kiyohara about what inspired him to launch "Ryukyu Panama by MAISON Birth" and how the journey began."It must have been around 2010. Even before starting MAISON Birth, I was involved in hat-making, and as I was reading through vintage hat archives, the material 'adan leaf' caught my eye. Curious, I dug deeper and found that this plant grows wild in Okinawa. That discovery sparked my interest, and I thought, 'I want to try making something with this material.'
I asked some friends in Okinawa about it, but since nobody seemed to know much, I decided to head to Okinawa myself. I visited museums and even the University of the Ryukyus, gathering information firsthand. That's when I discovered there used to be a type of hat made from adan leaves called the 'Ryukyu Panama Hat.'
This Ryukyu Panama Hat industry started in 1904 and, after sugarcane and awamori, grew to become Okinawa's third-largest industry. Apparently, it was exported overseas as a luxury item, but due to historical factors such as World War II, the industry eventually declined."
The Ongoing Search for Lost Traditions
Discovering that the traditional techniques had disappeared, Kiyohara still found time to visit Okinawa several times a year to keep researching the Ryukyu Panama Hat. By this point, several years had passed since he first became intrigued by the idea of using adan leaves in products."As my research progressed, I began to pinpoint regions where Ryukyu Panama Hat production once thrived. Focusing my visits there, I reached out to a number of locals and finally met someone who said, 'I once learned how to weave them.' I visited her to learn more.
I had never even seen what a Ryukyu Panama Hat looked like, so I asked her to weave one before my eyes and show me reference material. That was a big step forward."
Reviving Traditional Techniques from Over a Century Ago
With the discovery of reference materials and the encounter with skilled artisans, the only remaining puzzle was understanding the unique properties of adan leaves as a material to finally bring the product to life. It had already been 2–3 years since Kiyohara began researching Ryukyu Panama hats, but it would take an additional 6–7 years to achieve stable, reliable quality as a finished product.At long last, the Ryukyu Panama hat, which had disappeared after World War II, was reintroduced to the world in 2019 as “Ryukyu Panama by MAISON Birth.”
“Adan trees no longer grow as abundantly as they once did, especially due to Okinawa’s urbanization. Still, you can find them in the northern and southern regions of Okinawa’s main island and on neighboring islands, where they can still be harvested. The leaves go through a series of processes: after harvesting, they are boiled, dried, tanned, and split, thus being readied as material. Some references even noted, 'Add Shikwasa during the boiling process.'
After that, we create the 'hat body,' an initial stage before shaping the actual hat. Then we mold it using wooden forms, but there’s no set formula—the right amount of adjustment can only be discovered by repeated trial and error, carefully observing the nature of adan leaves.
In Okinawa, hat weaving artisans are called ‘Boshikuma.’ We needed to pass on these skills and raise the craftsmanship to the level required for commercial products—an effort that takes considerable time. We’re working together, with the Boshikuma also helping gather raw materials.
This is how 'Ryukyu Panama by MAISON Birth' was reborn and the Ryukyu Panama hat revived. In fact, my interest in adan leaves started even before launching MAISON Birth, so realizing this project took nearly a decade.”
Ryukyu Panama by MAISON Birth Items
Now, let’s take a look at some of the actual items from Ryukyu Panama by MAISON Birth.The weaving techniques are diverse, from the time-honored “Ryukyu weave”—a classic method— to intricate patterns achieved by combining various traditional skills, giving each hat its personality. All items are made to order, with Boshikuma artisans carefully hand-weaving them one by one. Each hat takes about 2–3 months to complete.
This product was selected for the 2024 National Traditional Craft Exhibition, hosted by the Japan Traditional Crafts Promotion Association.
Spreading Revived History, Tradition, & Craftsmanship
When Kiyohara first took an interest in adan leaves and started his research into Ryukyu Panama hats, there were only 2–3 Boshikuma left. By reaching out and asking them to help pass down their techniques, the number of artisans has grown significantly, although only a select few have achieved true mastery to be called Boshikuma.Ryukyu Panama by MAISON Birth is themed as a “hat passed from parent to child, from child to grandchild.” Adan leaves offer durability that outshines other natural straw materials—the hats can be worn for generations. To fully harness this material’s strength, superior craftsmanship from Boshikuma is indispensable. With this in mind, Kiyohara will launch the “Ryukyu Panama School” this June to further advance these techniques.
“Because I believe we must not let history, tradition, and these skills fade away, I’ve decided to start this school to grow the ranks of Boshikuma. By spreading these skills at the Ryukyu Panama School, increasing demand for Ryukyu Panama hats, I hope to expand the entire industry.”
Through years of perseverance, Kiyohara’s efforts led to the establishment of the Ryukyu Panama by MAISON Birth brand. His passion for the Ryukyu Panama hat is not limited to the brand; it aims for the revival of an almost-lost industry. The Ryukyu Panama by MAISON Birth collection, brimming with history, tradition, and craftsmanship, is truly something to be remembered.
PROFILE
Seita Kiyohara
Representative, PERIODOS Co., Ltd.
MAISON Birth designer.
After graduating from Bunka Fashion College, worked as a hat designer for a major hat manufacturer. Later, handled many products for both men’s and women’s fashion brands and select shops. Fusing Japanese hat artisan skills with his creative vision to reach a wider audience, he launched the hat brand MAISON Birth in 2010. Since then, he has led numerous projects and brands, developing his career both in Japan and internationally.
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