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From Onyanko Club to Michael Jackson: Looking Back at the Brand SAILORS that Dominated the 1980s
In the 1980s, many people may remember the brand "SAILORS" which featured the sailors as a trademark outfit worn by the popular idol group “Onyanko Club.” I spoke to Shizuka Miura, the CEO of SAILORS, about the legendary story of making 2.8 billion yen in annual sales from a mere 9-tsubo shop in Shibuya.
Starting a Business at 19, Launching from a Shop in Ekoda Behind Nihon University of Arts
Before SAILORS was born, there was an earlier shop from which it evolved.It can be said that without this shop, the legendary SAILORS of the 1980s would not have existed. Let's hear the story of this era, which is both the roots of the brand and part of Miura's history.
"I used to go to Tokyo Ekoda a few times a week to learn flower arranging. There was a property about 5 tsubo behind Nihon University of Arts, which was always closed, and it had piqued my curiosity for a long time.
"My relatives ran a jeans shop at Ameyoko, so I sourced jeans from them and opened my store there. This happened when I was 19 years old, three months after I graduated from high school."
Found the Sailor Signboard at an Antique Shop in Shimokitazawa
"The store was named 'HUDSON JAPAN' and sold jeans from brands like 'Lee,' 'Levi's,' and 'Wrangler.' However, it didn’t go well in the beginning. Still, I persisted and kept going.Despite the challenges, I kept pushing forward.
"I even traveled to the U.S. to purchase items; I found that buying ADIDAS' 'Tobacco' and UCLA’s coop caps and jogging pants sold surprisingly well. While continuing with the store at the age of 26, I happened to find a signboard at an antique shop in Shimokitazawa. I thought the illustration of the sailor and the word 'SAILORS' was cute, so I decorated my store display with it.
"Due to the location, many students from Nihon University of Arts would come, and they all commented on how 'cute' the sign was. Eventually, a manufacturer suggested, 'Why not create a sweater with this design?' I started illustrating my designs with that signboard and made the sweaters.
"At that time, the minimum order was probably about 50 pieces. I had never sold that many of one item at my store before, but when we released them, they sold out in less than a week. The fashion magazine 'JJ' began featuring those sweaters regularly, and they gained popularity."
The Birth of the SAILORS Brand & Opening a Shop in Shibuya
After running HUDSON JAPAN in Ekoda for 10 years, they decided to close it and open the flagship store for SAILORS in Shibuya. This marked the beginning of the brand "SAILORS.""In 1983, I opened a store near 'Marui City Shibuya,' but just three months after opening, the tenant company was subleasing, and I lost my security deposit. I was forced to vacate the property.
"Later, I relocated the store to a property facing Kitaya Park down an alley from Koen Dori. The property had been a private residence, and renovating it for commercial use cost a fortune, so it was a hefty financial start."
The Turning Point with Onyanko Club & Recording 2.8 Billion Yen in Annual Sales
The start in Shibuya was fraught with difficulties, but at this time, they had various idols and celebrities, including the popular comedians the "Tunnels" and the famous female wrestlers "Crush Gals," as customers, and SAILORS had already established itself as a popular brand. A further turning point came as well."In 1985, the producer of Fuji TV's legendary show 'Yuuyake Nyan Nyan' visited me and asked to design costumes for the Onyanko Club.
"With the Onyanko Club wearing SAILORS clothing and appearing daily on TV, the store began to attract long lines of around 2,000 people each day. We distributed numbered tickets, allowing a maximum of 40 customers to enter the store at one time, with a spending limit of 150,000 yen per person. We rotated customers every 15 minutes, enforcing a rule that those under 15 must be accompanied by an adult. We operated like this daily and achieved an annual sales record of 2.8 billion yen from our 9 tsubo store."
SAILORS Loved by Global Stars of the 1980s, Including Michael Jackson
When it comes to SAILORS, it is well-known for being loved by global stars like Michael Jackson, Stevie Wonder, Sylvester Stallone, Mike Tyson, Madonna, and Jackie Chan. What kind of stories are behind this? Let's continue to explore."I received a call from Tatsuji Nagashima, the then-president of Kyodo Tokyo. Michael was deeply affected by a kidnapping incident happening in Japan at the time and wanted to send out a message. He inquired whether something could be created with the popular SAILORS for the youth. This led to us creating a jacket featuring Michael's message, and that's how our interaction began.
"My encounter with Stevie came about through a friend, film critic Kuro Erikawa. She had a connection with Stevie and introduced me to him when he visited Japan. I have visited his studios and home in America too.
"As for Tyson, I received a call from Sale (Konishiki), and I quickly brought a varsity jacket to him. Celebrities overseas often buy varsity jackets, and it turns out that for SAILORS, size 4, the largest, generally fit them well.
"Sale frequently wore SAILORS as well, but his was a custom size. Our friendship was quite deep; he even wore the SAILORS ceremonial outfit at times."
Closing the Store and the Legendary Pop-Up at Laforet Harajuku
In 1999, a significant event occurred for Miura. It also marked a major event for SAILORS."In 1999, I gave birth to my daughter, who was later diagnosed with cerebral palsy. I decided to dedicate my life to raising her and chose to close the store in 2000.
"About 14 years later, we held a pop-up store on the first floor of Laforet Harajuku. Prior to that, I had received offers from Laforet, and it was during the third offer that I actually met with them and shared my thoughts.
"Now that my daughter was 14, I wanted to show her a hardworking mother, so we held a four-day pop-up store. By the end, we had sales amounting to 14 million yen, setting a record for pop-up stores at that time. During this period, many celebrities came to visit, contributing to its notoriety.
"The following year, we held another pop-up store, with SAILORS capturing the top two sales records again."
And as time passed, SAILORS has made a comeback through an online shop about three years ago. They are releasing items made with careful attention to fabric, aiming to recreate the quality of the 1980s in today's era.
Due to the recent Showa era boom, these products are popular among young men and women, and they evoke nostalgia for the generation that was infatuated with SAILORS in the 1980s. SAILORS has created numerous legends, and that continues even now.
PROFILE
Shizuka Miura
Originally from Wako City, Saitama Prefecture.
Started a jeans shop in Ekoda, Tokyo at the age of 19. Opened SAILORS in Shibuya in 1983. In 1985, the brand was chosen for outfits for the Onyanko Club, creating a massive boom that attracted not only fans in Japan but also global stars like Michael Jackson.
Gave birth in 1999. Closed the store in 2000 to dedicate her time to parenting, much to the public's regret. Challenged in the Tokyo Metropolitan Assembly election in 2017 and the Setagaya Ward Council election in 2023. Relaunched SAILORS in 2023, currently serving as a part-time lecturer at the School of Business Administration, Kokushikan University, and remains actively engaged in her endeavors.
Book: "叶うなら 娘より一秒長く生きたい！！〜セーラーズ母娘物語〜"
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