From Iwate to the World! Expanding the Possibilities of Sashiko Quilting & Aiming Beyond Reconstruction: The Challenge of the "Sashiko Gals Project"

After the Great East Japan Earthquake, the "Otsuchi Sashiko Project" begun as a disaster recovery project in Otsuchi Town, Iwate Prefecture. Women affected by the disaster made and sold products with the traditional Japanese handicraft of "sashiko" quilting.

However, as time passed since the earthquake, attention to the project inevitably decreased. Additionally, due to the aging of members and relocation beyond the town, the number of people involved in sashiko has gradually diminished.

That's when Arata Fujiwara, who runs the fashion brand "KUON," stood up. Besides having commissioned product creation to Otsuchi Sashiko previously, he launched the "Sashiko Gals" project in 2024 as the next phase of reconstruction support.

We asked Fujiwara why he started Sashiko Gals and the thoughts and goals behind the activities.

Seeing the Potential in Sashiko & Launching the Project

Please tell us the background behind the launch of the "Sashiko Gals" project.

The predecessor "Otsuchi Sashiko Project" was started as a disaster recovery project after the Great East Japan Earthquake, and at its peak, it involved around 100 people. However, as it was voluntary, it couldn't be sustained long-term, and currently, there are about 15 members, including office staff.

The disaster recovery project started from an excellent perspective, but over time it tends to be forgotten and shrinks as it moves away from the earthquake disaster period. Otsuchi Sashiko was the same, and amid such circumstances, it was dealt a severe blow with the arrival of the COVID-19 pandemic and decreased commissions from companies.

After being consulted by the Otsuchi Sashiko staff about the difficulty in maintaining operations, the Sashiko Gals Project was launched.

I saw potential in the project because the sashiko items handled by KUON were highly regarded overseas. I believed that if we changed the way we presented them, Otsuchi Sashiko could expand further.

Please tell us the origin of the project name "Sashiko Gals."

At the office in Otsuchi, the artisans gather and start with small talk when they get together for sashiko. They bring snacks and homemade dishes and talk about each other's recent events. Observing this made me think of high school girls chatting after school in classrooms or family restaurants.

There may be criticisms about the term "gyaru," but to me, "gyaru" equates to a positive person, which is why I adopted it as it is. When I announced that the name would be Sashiko Gals, no one believed it at first, but now everyone loves it.

From Beginners to World-class Craftsmen with Skills & Sense

What were the challenges faced during the project's launch?

Being a businessperson, I tend to view things from a business perspective, but for those involved with Otsuchi Sashiko, it might have been challenging to think and act from a business standpoint. The decrease in artisans was partly because we couldn't promote the traditional, remarkable handwork as a highly valuable profession.

On the other hand, I think the resilience many female residents of the Tohoku region have, possibly due to overcoming the earthquake, plays a role. Sashiko work involves persistent, repetitive tasks, making it tough for newcomers to continue.

All Sashiko Gals artisans began with no experience, and at first, couldn't sew neatly, leaving projects looking unpolished. Despite this, they continued for 13 years, supported by strong hearts.

The allure of unique color schemes and accent colors is prominent in many items, isn't it?

The items crafted by the Sashiko Gals rely on the artisans' creativity. Even when working on the same pair of sneakers, the final look varies depending on the artisan involved.

Items with Sashiko are sometimes featured at New York Fashion Week, and the quality demand increases each year. The artisans with Sashiko Gals consistently meet these expectations, reflecting their heightened awareness of color schemes and designs.

Does the difficulty of applying sashiko vary depending on the item?

Even with the same sneakers, the difficulty increases with thicker or harder fabrics and more complex shapes.

Recently, we received a request to apply sashiko to Dr. Martens at an event in Korea. Given the tough leather material, I prepared a precision drill, thinking needles alone wouldn't suffice. Yet, an experienced artisan insisted, "It must be the feeling of the hand," and personally adjusted the needle insertion angle for precision.

The longer they continue, the more refined their tactile sensation becomes, enabling them to apply sashiko to various materials. It's a testament to their remarkable skills.

3 Objectives of Sashiko Gals

What kind of feedback do the artisans with Sashiko Gals have about their activities?

Feedback like "I'm thrilled to be seen by many and highly appreciated. I want to further improve my skills" has been heard.

Sashiko can be applied to new items, yet it originally started as a way to reinforce older items for prolonged use. Through sashiko, Sashiko Gals aim to embody the sentiment of "wanting people to cherish and use their items for as long as possible."

Seeing old items transformed into something new seems to provide a sense of fulfillment for the artisans as well.

What are your future outlooks?

The operation of Sashiko Gals encompasses three main goals: expanding the possibilities of sashiko, showcasing what's beyond recovery, and creating local industries.

Sashiko has a large following worldwide, with numerous posts appearing on Instagram under "#sashiko." Having originated as a Japanese culture, it has become a hobby internationally, ensuring its cultural longevity.

However, evolving the culture requires innovation alongside tradition preservation. This is why Sashiko Gals have been challenging themselves with items like sneakers and plush toys that traditionally did not feature sashiko.

The remark made by an artisan, "I forget the unpleasant things when doing needlework," during the post-disaster days still resonates with me. It's gratifying to see that a project started for recovery has become beneficial for the artisans while gaining global attention.

As long as there's a needle and thread, sashiko can be practiced anywhere and holds the potential to develop into local industries. The activities of Sashiko Gals could serve as a good model for Japan, a nation frequently struck by disasters.

Sashiko Gals is not a brand but a project. Rather than creating and selling items on their own, they prefer to use their accumulated skills to enhance a variety of products and services for diverse people and companies.

Instead of saying "Look at us!" they aim to be an essential, strong, supportive presence similar to the resilient mothers of Tohoku.

If they succeed as a local industry, it will be easier for young people to work in their home region.

Otsuchi town, severely impacted by the earthquake, saw its population reduced to about one-third. Although there are young people, local job opportunities are scarce, forcing them to relocate to places like Morioka or Sendai. Establishing local industries is vital to sustain living in their hometown.

With the hope of introducing the "tradition and history of sashiko" to the nearby Otsuchi town youth, sashiko lessons commenced at Kamaishi commercial high school in the neighboring town starting this May.

Even if just one person expresses a desire to join Sashiko Gals, it would be tremendous. Continuously welcoming young members is the long-term goal.

Alongside the artisans, we aim to grow further, creating works that highlight the charm of sashiko.