Why Steppi Knit Pumps Are So Popular: The Secret to Their Soft Comfort and Polished Look

The pandemic ushered in an era of remote work, transforming our lifestyles and drastically reducing the need for pumps and heels. Coupled with long-standing complaints about discomfort and the strain they put on our feet, it's no surprise that many have been ditching their pumps.

However, there are still moments—whether for a specific occasion or to complete a certain look—when only a pump will do. Stepping up to meet this demand is Onward Kashiyama's knit pump brand, steppi, which has been winning over fans.

We sat down with Chizue Kinoshita, a designer who has been part of the steppi journey from the very beginning, to learn about the brand's origins and the innovative technology behind these remarkable knit pumps.

The journey for steppi began back in 2018. The spark was ignited when one of the company's marketing managers discovered a knit pump brand called 'Rothy's' at a trade show in the United States.

'While knit pumps were available in Japan at the time, none had really established themselves as a major brand,' Kinoshita explains. 'Seeing how popular they were in the U.S. made us believe there was a market for them in Japan. And with our long history as an apparel company and deep expertise in knitwear, we were confident we could apply that know-how to footwear. That was the starting point for development.'

After nearly four years of trial and error, steppi finally made its debut in 2022. The greatest challenge was achieving the perfect marriage of superior comfort and an elegant form.

The Shoe Last: The Secret to a Slip-Free Fit

'The most critical and challenging element in creating a beautiful silhouette was the shoe last,' she continues. 'We quickly realized that using a standard last designed for leather, which has very little stretch, simply wouldn't work for a knit pump. The heel would slip right off, making it unwearable.'

To tackle this, the team recruited around 50 employees as testers to wear the prototypes and pinpoint areas for improvement. A master shoe last artisan personally observed the fit and made countless micro-adjustments.

'One of the most vital aspects of creating the last is the heel curve,' she notes. 'The upper of a knit pump is soft, so if we made the heel stiff like a leather shoe, it would feel uncomfortable when slipping it on. The real challenge was making it as soft as possible while ensuring a snug, slip-free fit. That was incredibly difficult to perfect.'

Enhancing Knit with High-Performance Features

The upper material itself was another area of intense focus, where 'new functional requirements kept being added throughout the development process,' says Kinoshita.

The uppers are crafted from recycled polyester yarn. What’s more, each individual thread is treated with a water-repellent coating, achieving a perfect balance of breathability and impressive water resistance.

Some boot models have even been proven to resist water penetration after being submerged in 4cm of water for three hours. By adding a heat-setting process, the fabric holds its shape even after washing, making the shoes fully machine-washable. Their excellent breathability also means they dry quickly in the shade.

'A tighter weave makes the shoe more water-resistant, but using finer yarn results in a fabric that's too flimsy. Conversely, using thicker yarn to add body makes it absorb water more easily and gives it a casual look,' Kinoshita explains.

'To achieve the polished design we were aiming for, it was essential to use a fine, sophisticated weave while ensuring the upper had a substantial thickness, similar to a leather pump.'

'We spent the most time on developing the upper, creating countless variations to find that perfect balance of knit structure and yarn thickness.'

Goodbye to the Flat-Shoe Shuffle: Enjoy Sneaker-Level Walkability

Walkability was another key area of focus.

'You know how with many flat shoes, you get that slapping sound as you walk? Your gait can feel awkward, and they often become tiring after a while,' Kinoshita says. 'To solve this, we designed steppi with the toe raised by about 8mm to promote a smoother, more natural stride.'

'For the outsole, we also opted for a foam material instead of conventional rubber. This makes the shoes incredibly lightweight and flexible, delivering cushioning comparable to a pair of sneakers.'

The design is thoughtfully tailored to the wearer's needs, right down to the removable, arch-supporting insole—perfect for those who prefer to go barefoot.

When you actually put them on, you'll feel the signature softness of knit material, yet they offer a surprisingly snug fit. Amazingly, the shape of your foot hardly shows on the outside. The sole is also flexible, allowing for a smooth and easy stride.

Despite being breathable, they are remarkably water-repellent. Water droplets just slide off the surface, leaving minimal moisture behind without seeping inside. This makes them a reliable choice for lingering summer heat and for the unpredictable weather of autumn, often marked by typhoons.

"They slip on effortlessly and look polished, so we've received high praise from busy mothers and sales professionals. I believe they're versatile enough for parties and formal occasions as well."

The current lineup extends beyond pumps to include sneakers, boots, and sandals.

"The soft comfort of steppi has been a hit with a wide audience. However, since the knit material is often perceived as being just for summer, we're planning to introduce variations with a brushed fabric for the upcoming autumn/winter collection."

Combining elegance, softness, and incredible walkability, steppi's knit pumps offer a new choice that perfectly balances a 'polished look' with comfort. They are sure to remain a favorite among many women for years to come.