From Wagyu Beef to Leather Jackets! Unpacking the Rich Allure of Tangenet's Creations

Our relationship with leather stretches back two million years to the Paleolithic era, when our ancestors would tan the hides of their prey to use as clothing and tools. Inspired by this ancient spirit of upcycling, Japanese designer brand tangenet has turned its attention to a modern byproduct of the meat industry: Wagyu cattle hides. From these, they have crafted a stunning leather jacket.

Both high-quality and sustainable, this so-called Wagyu Leather jacket promises a new level of everyday comfort and exhilaration. We sat down with designer Mitsuru Yoshiya to find out more.

After joining Onward Kashiyama in 2003 and working as a designer for men's brands, Yoshiya went independent in 2021 to launch tangenet. He is also involved in a wide range of design activities to showcase the appeal of Japanese craftsmanship.

An Idea Born at the Dinner Table: Turning Wagyu Rawhides into Garment Leather

"I love meat, and Wagyu is my absolute favorite. I eat a well-marbled steak about once a week. One day, it occurred to me: what if I could turn the hide of such a delicious cow into clothing? That was the beginning."

The Wagyu Leather jacket featured here was born from that very moment of dinnertime inspiration. The leather itself is made from the rawhides of Kagoshima Black cattle, which are then meticulously finished by a tanner in Tatsuno City, Hyogo Prefecture.

This material's creation was supported by a venerable tanner based in the city, which is renowned as a hub of leather craftsmanship.

A Prestigious Tanner from the "Town of Leather" Was Key to Development

Goto Seikakusho, located in Tatsuno—a city that accounts for roughly 70% of Japan's leather production—is a tanner that specializes in *suage* (unfinished) leather, which is created without any coating of paint or pigment.

Wagyu *suage* leather is prized for use in professional baseball gloves. Its fibers are finer and denser than those of leather from overseas, making it highly resistant to friction and less prone to losing its shape. As a result, it has even been adopted by glove makers for Major League Baseball players.

"The surface was supple and soft, and it conformed well to the skin. Yet, it retained a firm resilience. However, its thickness and stiffness posed a challenge for use in apparel."

Just 1mm Thick: Pushing the Limits of Glove Leather

"Cowhide is typically stiff and heavy, so we aimed for a thickness of about 1mm. To achieve this, we repeatedly shaved down the reverse side of the leather with a machine to ensure a uniform thickness. Then, we tumbled it for an extended period in a 'taiko' drum machine, adding oils to loosen the fibers from within.

For the finishing touch, we employed a process called 'batta,' where the leather is secured with large clips and vibrated intensely to break down its rigidity. This is how we created the supple, 1mm-thick Wagyu Leather."

A New Wardrobe Staple: The Wagyu Leather Jacket

"The 'TRACKER' is a piece designed with one goal in mind: how to best showcase the appeal of this leather."

As the second leather jacket following the "JOHNNY" released in Autumn/Winter 2022, this piece channels the classic feel of a U.S. military flight jacket while being updated as a modern sports jacket.

"The collar is a large, shirt-style design inspired by the A-2. We switched from flap pockets to zip pockets and changed the cuffs from a ribbed knit to a shirt-style design."

The front features a double zip, allowing you to open the bottom to add a touch of nuance to the silhouette. The hand-warmer pockets are also zippered, serving not only as a design accent but also as a practical feature to prevent items from falling out.

While tight fits are the norm for leather jackets, this model achieves a contemporary silhouette with a generous fit in the body, spacious armholes, and drop shoulders.

This relaxed cut also beautifully enhances the supple drape that is unique to Wagyu Leather.

"We use a three-dimensional pattern similar to a tailored jacket, which makes arm movement effortless. Additionally, the lining is made from cupro fabric, often found in high-end suits, so the sleeves glide on smoothly."

The sewing is entrusted to River Ltd., located in the same city of Tatsuno as the tannery. With over half a century of history and a team of seasoned artisans, the factory has a stellar reputation for its expertise in sewing leatherwear.

"Wagyu leather is exceptionally tough, making it difficult for needles to penetrate. Furthermore, once the leather is punctured, there's no going back, which demands meticulous craftsmanship. Only a factory equipped with specialized tools and techniques for leather can guarantee such a flawless finish."

In conventional leather production, it's standard practice to use only the most flawless sections from a large single hide known as a 'butt.' With Wagyu Leather, however, a large butt measuring around 250x160 cm yields just enough for one or two jackets...

Driven by a commitment to minimize waste, the artisans choose not to discard any part of the limited hide. Instead, they embrace the natural scars and marks as part of the leather's unique character. These imperfections are cleverly placed in less visible areas, such as the facings of the jacket.

Yoshiya poured his passion for leathercraft into creating this top-tier jacket. He shares his thoughts on the ideal leather he has long sought after.

"The most crucial factor in selecting leather is the balance between softness and resilience. Leather with that quality not only looks stunning when tailored but also feels incredibly comfortable to wear. Think of it like al dente pasta—soft on the outside but with a firm core. That's the feeling I'm after. Wagyu Leather is the very embodiment of the ideal leather I've been searching for."

It molds to your body from the very first wear and develops a richer character over time. Tangenet's Wagyu Leather is something to be savored, much like a fine meal.