The Design Work of TEMBEA: Sophisticated Minimalism with Unparalleled Originality

TEMBEA is a brand primarily focused on bags. You might recognize their distinctive canvas totes, known for their unique single handle.

Minimalist yet unique, these bags are tough enough for the rigors of everyday use. In this feature, we sit down with Atsushi Hayasaki, head of TORSO and designer for TEMBEA, to take a deep dive into the brand's story.

A Fateful Encounter with Canvas Was the Spark

The name TEMBEA means 'to wander.' Wandering isn't just about staying in one place; it's about moving from place to place. The brand's philosophy is to explore new materials, colors, and shapes that capture the current mood, creating products that serve as tools for everyday life with an awareness of their inorganic quality, simplicity, and design. Let's start by hearing about how it all began.

"TEMBEA launched in 2004. Back then, I was designing clothes, and during the planning phase, a particular fabric swatch caught my eye. It was a beautiful white canvas—supple to the touch, yet with a firm structure. I was so impressed by the fabric that I thought, 'I want to make a tote bag with this.' That was the initial spark.

Around that time, I couldn't find a bag I was particularly fond of and was thinking, 'I wish there was a fabric bag that men could use too.' My personal needs and my desire to create a bag aligned, leading me to design what would become the brand's iconic 'BAGUETTE TOTE.' The simple thoughts of, 'It would be great if something like this existed,' and 'I want to try using one,' were, I believe, a very pure motivation for the design process."

The BAGUETTE TOTE: TEMBEA's Signature Classic

Now that we've heard about the brand's origins, let's take a closer look at the iconic item you mentioned: the BAGUETTE TOTE.

"The BAGUETTE TOTE was originally designed to perfectly accommodate long items. A key feature is the single handle placed only on the front, which makes it easy to carry on your shoulder even when holding something long, like a baguette. When worn, the bag rests naturally against your body, and the opening faces outward, making it easy to access your belongings.

The handle is wide, which reduces strain on the shoulder and provides stability even when carrying heavy items. If you turn the handled side away from your body, the opening becomes less accessible, which helps conceal the contents. There are no internal pockets or dividers, giving you the freedom to use it however you like."

Specially Crafted Canvas Woven on 40- to 50-Year-Old Looms

Next, we delve into TEMBEA's bag-making process and dedication to materials.

"When I start planning an item, I focus on its usability as a tool and its timeless design. I also consider how it will transform from a simple tool into a cherished possession with use. We've been crafting products for over 20 years with the goal of creating items that are 'completed' over time through the user's daily life.

The canvas fabric that TEMBEA primarily uses is treated with paraffin (a special wax), which gives it superior water resistance compared to standard canvas. The cotton canvas is made from combed yarn, where short fibers and impurities are removed from the cotton during the spinning process. This results in long, uniform fibers, creating a material with minimal irregularities, a unique sheen, and excellent durability. While stiff at first, the fabric softens and molds to the user with every use.

Furthermore, this canvas is woven on old looms dating back 40 to 50 years, and we make use of the fabric's edge, known as the selvage. We're dedicated to designs that highlight the beauty of this selvage—which can resemble a raw cut edge—and incorporate it into many of our items."

BAGUETTE TOTE: A Showcase of Different Materials

We're taking the design of our classic BAGUETTE TOTE and elevating it by using materials like leather and "X-PAC," a high-performance nylon fabric widely used in modern outdoor gear, to offer even more value.

"Starting last year, we launched a version of the BAGUETTE TOTE made with goat leather, and it's been a huge hit. Goat leather comes from adult goats and is known for being lightweight, durable, and excellent at holding its shape. This means that even though it’s a leather item, you can use it every day without any fuss.

The natural grain unique to goat leather gives it a beautiful look and a distinct touch of luxury. The soft, elegant way it drapes when you hold it is also stunning. Over time, it develops a richer sheen and softens to fit you perfectly, making it an item where you can truly enjoy the beauty of its aging process."

"Also starting last year, we introduced a BAGUETTE TOTE using "X-PAC" material, and it’s become another fan favorite. "X-PAC" is a high-tech, specialized fabric that's incredibly light and tough. It's also highly waterproof, making it the perfect bag for daily life—whether you're carrying a laptop and documents for your commute or just picking up groceries.

This tote also features a shorter set of handles on the inside, so you can carry it two ways: over your shoulder or by hand. These inner handles also make it easy to get your things in and out of the bag smoothly."

TEMBEA established its flagship store in Sendagaya, Tokyo, back in 2012. Then, in 2018, they opened their Kyoto store on Ebisugawa-dori, a street south of the Kyoto Imperial Palace historically known for its furniture shops. The brand now revolves around these two flagship locations.

Hayasaki's design work leaves the impression of unique concepts masterfully distilled into sophisticated, simple items. Minimalist yet one-of-a-kind—perhaps this is the very essence of the TEMBEA brand, the reason it remains beloved nearly 20 years on.