UNIVERSAL OVERALL: A 100-Year History and a Fresh Perspective on American Work Style

For over a century, the American workwear brand UNIVERSAL OVERALL has been dedicated to crafting meticulously designed items.

In their quest for tough workwear, they introduced work pants made from a durable cotton-polyester (Tetron®) blend. This fabric, highly resistant to wear and washing, quickly won over American workers of the era.

Beyond just work pants, the brand also rolled out coveralls and shop coats using the same material. These pieces rapidly gained popularity, cementing their status as a staple for the American workforce.

This rich heritage has also captivated fans in Japan who appreciate classic American workwear, ensuring the brand's legacy continues today.

We sat down with Ryuto Adachi, a designer at Dream Works Co., Ltd., to talk about UNIVERSAL OVERALL's most iconic pieces.

The Workwear Trusted by NASA and the U.S. Air Mail Service

UNIVERSAL OVERALL was founded in 1924 in Chicago, Illinois. During the Roaring Twenties, America was experiencing an economic boom and a modern construction rush, drawing a massive workforce to Chicago from all over the country and the world.

The founders were brothers Max and Joe Eckerling, immigrants from Austria. After settling in Chicago, they launched UNIVERSAL OVERALL.

The company grew to supply workwear to major organizations, including NASA and the U.S. Air Mail Service, eventually establishing its own headquarters building in Chicago.

The Work Pants Loved Since the 1960s

Now that we've explored the origins of UNIVERSAL OVERALL, let's dive into some of its most representative pieces.

"The work pants are definitely our most iconic item," Adachi explains. "Pants made from our T/C fabric, a cotton-polyester blend, are synonymous with the UNIVERSAL OVERALL brand."

"Based on the quality labels on vintage pants in our archives and other historical documents, we believe this material was already in use by the 1960s."

"Renowned for their toughness, these pants became a beloved staple in various work environments across America."

The Coveralls with a Story Only a Heritage Brand Can Tell

Another item that defines UNIVERSAL OVERALL's long history is the coverall.

"The coverall is another one of our signature pieces," says Adachi. "Featuring four patch pockets, it's a classic that has been a core part of the brand for years."

"We have several vintage coveralls in our archive, but I particularly want to show you one from the 1960s."

"This piece has a remarkable story. It was worn for many years by an elderly man who lived near the Chicago headquarters. After he passed away, his family brought it to the company. You can see repair marks all over it, suggesting it was cherished and worn from as early as the 1960s."

"The items in our HERITAGE LINE were created as an homage to this storied coverall."

Carrying on the Legacy: Timeless Pieces for Today

Now, let's turn to UNIVERSAL OVERALL's presence in Japan and explore the brand's current classic offerings.

"The brand officially launched in Japan in the 2010s. Just like in the US, our 'STANDARD FIT PANTS' have become one of our most representative items here."

"In addition to the standard fit, we offer several other silhouettes, including tapered and wide-leg styles. The fabric—a 65% polyester, 35% cotton blend—has remained unchanged since the 1960s."

"Another key feature is the seamless, single-piece construction of the waistband. Details like this have been carried over from the original designs and are still present in our products today."

The Staple Coverall, Carried on with TC Fabric

We've already touched on the history of the coverall, and now we'll dive into the classic coverall that's a key part of the current collection.

"When you think of our classic coverall, the model made with TC fabric comes to mind, right alongside our work pants. We have a wide range of coveralls, but this TC material is especially important to UNIVERSAL OVERALL. If you had to pick one staple model, this would be it.

"The fundamental details include four patch pockets and durable felled seams with triple-stitching. But a unique feature of UNIVERSAL OVERALL's coveralls is the reversed sleeve placket. It's a subtle detail you might not notice at first glance, but you'll feel the difference as soon as you put it on. This is another one of those signature details that has been passed down through the brand's long history."

The Phrase that Symbolizes the Brand: "STONE CARVER"

UNIVERSAL OVERALL has a phrase that acts like a subtitle: "STONE CUTTER."

This phrase has been printed on product flashers and other items for a long time, and UNIVERSAL OVERALL continues to honor this legacy today.

"It's an expression meant to convey that UNIVERSAL OVERALL's products are 'as tough and durable as a stonecutter.'"

"Today, we use the phrase 'STONE CARVER,' which carries the same meaning. You'll find it on graphics for our sweatshirts and T-shirts, and on our flashers. It's a key phrase we plan to continue cherishing as the brand's subtitle."

Today, UNIVERSAL OVERALL is available at its flagship store in Harajuku, Tokyo, and at select shops across Japan. The brand's reach isn't limited to the US and Japan; it's also stocked in several European countries, with its work pants proving especially popular in Italy.

Furthermore, the brand is expanding into Asian countries like Taiwan, South Korea, Hong Kong, and Thailand. Its presence, both at home and abroad, is set to continue growing.

With over a century of history, UNIVERSAL OVERALL is already charting its course for the next 100 years.