The History of "VAN" and a Reflection on "Ivy League Look" & "Miyuki-zoku"

In the 1960s, "VAN" popularized the style known as the "Ivy League Look" in Japan. This brand significantly contributed to the development of post-war Japanese fashion. Fun fact: over 70 years since its founding, it still attracts collaboration requests from young designers.

Today, we dive into the history and essential knowledge of VAN through an interview with the press representative of VAN JACKET INC.

Swift Adoption of the Ivy League Look in Japan

"VAN was established in 1948 by a figure named Kensuke Ishizu. He is renowned for spreading American culture alongside western clothing in post-war Japan.

"Initially, the brand produced suits, known at the time as 'suit,' but during that era, the fashion trend of the 'Ivy League Look' (or simply 'Ivy Look')—which included navy blazers and button-down shirts infused with sporty casual aesthetics—was popular among Ivy League students in the United States. I believe introducing that style to Japan early on led to the modern image of VAN."

The Bible of the Ivy League Look: "TAKE IVY"

In 1965, VAN released a visual work and photo collection titled "TAKE IVY," which had a significant impact on Japan's Ivy League Look.

"This 'TAKE IVY' was visually captured by Kensuke Ishizu's eldest son, Shosuke, and photographer Teruyoshi Hayashida, portraying real Ivy Leaguers in America through film and photography. This photo collection soon became a bible for Ivy and American Traditional style.

"After going through multiple publications and reprints, an American version was also released in the 2000s. I think it's fascinating that a Japanese book, shot in America, was sold back into the U.S. market."

VAN's Iconic Item: Swing Top

Now, let’s continue our look back on the history of VAN’s iconic item, the "swing top."

"The term 'swing top' was coined by VAN. This type of outerwear is known as 'Drizzler' in English, but it became widely recognized as 'swing top' across Japan.

"Interestingly, VAN has created several terms that have become widely used, including 'Trainer' and 'Skateboard.'

"When the swing top was first released in the 1960s, it featured a collar with a chin strap, but today, the standard style has evolved to a long dog-ear collar.

"Additionally, elements like raglan sleeves and the magazine pocket remain detailed features. The magazine pocket was particularly useful back then when more people folded newspapers and magazines to carry them.

"Today, there is an additional pocket sized for smartphones above the magazine pocket. Moreover, there have been gradual updates, like original charms on the front zipper and logo-embossed buttons.

"The large logo embroidery on the back gives this item a striking presence as a brand icon."

The "Double-breasted Blazer" & Miyuki-zoku

When discussing VAN, another vital item that cannot be overlooked is the blazer.

In 1964, a group of young people known as "Miyuki-zoku" (literally, "the Miyuki tribe") emerged. They were referred to by this name because they dressed in Ivy fashion and gathered on Miyuki Street in Ginza, Tokyo.

This group was said to symbolize the Ivy Boom, which was a significant social phenomenon at the time. For them, the VAN blazer was a must-have item. Let’s dive deeper into this blazer.

“I believe the standard Ivy league style at the time consisted of a blazer, button-down shirts, cotton pants, and loafers. Among these, the ‘Double-breasted blazer’ was a staple.

"The style features a three-button design where the first button is hidden under the lapel, and only the middle second button is fastened. This became a classic of American traditional style, not just at VAN.

"In the early days of the brand, VAN also released a blazer called the ‘IVY MODEL,’ which was worn by fastening the top two buttons of the three-button design, showing the evolution of style. Currently, they offer this in made-to-order patterns.

"As for the Miyuki-zoku, it became a trend among them to fold the VAN paper bag in half and carry it like a clutch bag. Many people seen on Miyuki Street were spotted with VAN paper bags. It’s possible that this led to the association of VAN with Miyuki-zoku.”

The “Stadium Jumper” Worn by Michael Jackson

In addition to the swing tops and blazers, I was shown some classic items from VAN, including the “BD shirt,” “sweater,” and the “stadium jumper.”

Next, let’s introduce the “stadium jumper.” This season, there’s a limited series called the “Premium Stadium Jumper” that I especially want to recommend.

“The stadium jumper, created in 1988, was given to Michael Jackson when he visited Japan by a VAN jacket employee. Subsequently, numerous photos of him wearing it emerged, including one shown on a large screen during the memorial service attended by about 17,500 fans for Michael Jackson, as seen in his autobiography ‘MOON WALK.’ This time, we produced it as a made-to-order revival model primarily for our loyal customers.”

“Additionally, I’d like to introduce a jumper with full decorations based on the theme of ‘American Football.’ In 1964, VAN established an American football team called ‘VAN GUARDS’ and contributed to the spread of American football in the 1970s. This has inspired the sports-themed model for the 2024 autumn/winter season.”

The main logo of VAN carries the slogan "for the young and the young-at-heart."
As stated here, there are many customers from the generation that was young during the Ivy Boom era and into the 1970s and 1980s who continue to be active clients. Additionally, there are no few fans in their 20s and 30s who love Ivy style and American Trad.

As pioneers of Ivy style in Japan, they will likely continue to craft a new history moving forward.