Can the Elegant "WAKOUWA" Really Be Called a Low-Tech Sneaker with an Internal Wingtip Like a Leather Shoe?

After three years of concept development and twelve prototypes, the sneaker "WAKOUWA" was completed, drawing design inspiration from military-issued deck sneakers supplied to the US NAVY. We asked Jun Nobuoka from 35summers about the story behind the creation of this meticulously fitted sneaker by ANATOMICA and whether the product, claiming to be a low-tech sports brand, truly embodies that ethos.

A Sneaker Born from a Casual Conversation Between 2 Masters

"What’s Kinji’s favorite sneaker?"
 
"I think the most beautiful one is that deck shoe!"
 
This casual exchange between Pierre Fournier of "ANATOMICA" and Kinji Teramoto of 35summers sparked the creation of “Wakouwa.” Their shared vision ignited the production of a completely new low-tech sports shoe, but it wasn't an easy path. Nobuoka reflects on the production process at that time.

"The asymmetric line of the instep, the shape that follows the foot's natural arc from the big toe to the little toe, and the raised arch support in the arch... the last (wooden mold) was modified no less than 8 times. It took a full 30 months from the initial discussion to completion.
 
"Pierre himself is so detail-oriented that he calls himself a 'Devil of Detail,' repeating fine adjustments. Kinji, unable to bear watching, ultimately took Pierre to the factory for direct communication! (laughs)"
 

To shape the anatomical structure that Pierre aims for, epitomized in the “Scientific Shoe Fitting” inscribed on the insoles of the finished shoes, it is understandable that it took time.
 
The final product features a brown and black color palette reminiscent of 1938 military boat shoes, details derived from vintage deck shoes from the late 1960s to mid-1970s, a wave pattern sole molded from scratch, and a construction method called vulcanization, which deliberately employs the oldest sneaker construction method.

“By selecting the vulcanized method, which enhances the strength and elasticity of the rubber sole, increases the sense of unity as footwear, and minimizes deformation, it’s certainly a distinction unique to 'Wakouwa' that a sneaker could be created from the last."

This shows that "God is in the details" with the birth of this shoe.

The Brand Name Originates from a Long-desired Wooden Toy

Pierre had a strong attachment to the brand name “Wakouwa.” Regarding the origin of the brand name, Nobuoka shared his insights.
 
“'Wakouwa' was the name of a Swiss wooden toy. During his childhood, Pierre saw 'Wakouwa' in the window of an old department store in Paris and couldn’t forget it. While he wanted to buy it, he couldn’t at the time and planned to buy it as an adult someday.

"However, upon becoming an adult, he found that the brand had disappeared. Later, Pierre successfully registered the trademark for 'Wakouwa.' The connection between the toy featuring a dog as its main character and the story of the sole inspired by a dog's paw ties everything together. You’ll find the dog character printed on the heel patch of the shoe as well."
 
This indicates Pierre’s genuine dedication to the shoes by naming the brand after a trademark that held personal significance to him.

The detail-oriented "Wakouwa," beloved by vintage enthusiasts, has garnered acclaim and even caught the attention of a master designer in Japan. Regarding this event, Nobuoka continued:
 
"In fact, the world-renowned designer Issey Miyake also made a special trip to the 'ANATOMICA' shop and purchased 'Wakouwa.' Later, he expressed interest in a collaboration because he liked it, and that collaboration shoes were even featured in the 'ISSEY MIYAKE 2020-21AW Paris Collection' runway.
 
"Since it's a brand of global repute, when I reported this, Kinji said that Pierre was indeed more surprised than I was."
 
The high level of completion has captivated even designers who make a name for themselves from Japan to the world.

Is "Wakouwa" a Low-tech Shoe?

Here arises a question.
 
"Wakouwa" is a brand that began with Pierre Fournier and Kinji Teramoto collaborating to create a "low-tech sports brand," but is the shoes themselves truly low-tech? Regarding that question, Nobuoka responded:

"Indeed, 'Wakouwa' aimed for a narrow last in pursuit of fitting. However, it also places importance on 'arch support.' This is because both Pierre and Kinji have experienced the modified last of 'Alden.'
 
"Ultimately, I think they settled on the idea that 'it would be nice to have sneakers that provide arch support', so it is a fact that it is no longer simply a low-tech sports shoe."

"Wakouwa" is no longer just low-tech; it possesses high-tech functionalities that provide arch support, making it one of its attractions beyond mere attention to detail.
 
In fact, there are talks of a significant collaboration for next year approaching.
 
"I can't share details yet, but several collaboration projects are in progress. However, in terms of fitting, it stands apart from other shoes, so I hope those who haven't worn it yet will give it a try."

While packing the shoes with specs that fans will love, they present as low-tech while firmly maintaining functionality, making the charm of these shoes something that hasn't been completely expressed yet. I truly hope you will try them on to experience their allure firsthand.