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The Potential of The North Face's New Down Jacket "Wouzel," Which Stays Warm Even When Wet

2025.01.07
Why are down jackets warm?
The answer lies in the "down" that is filled inside. The down, sourced from waterfowl, is fluffy like cotton and can trap a large amount of air. The low thermal conductivity of air acts as insulation, enhancing heat retention.
However, even such down jackets have a weakness: "water." When the inner down gets wet, it can no longer trap air, resulting in reduced insulation.
This season, THE NORTH FACE has released the "Wouzel" which focuses on addressing this weak point of down jackets. We spoke with Yayoi Chiba, the MD of The North Face, about the background of the Wouzel's creation and its specs.

PROFILE

Yayoi Chiba

Manager, THE NORTH FACE Performance Group, Goldwin Inc.
Yayoi Chiba, who enjoys mountain climbing and spent her summer vacation enjoying a long trail in the UK.

A Groundbreaking Idea to Give Down Itself Water-Repellent Properties

"Wouzel Hoodie," 50,600 yen (tax included)
First, could you tell us the background of the Wouzel's development?
In outdoor settings, it is common for down jackets to get wet from rain, snow, mist, or sweat. In fact, we received feedback from The North Face athletes saying, "We want to maintain the lightweight and compact nature of down jackets, but can't we do something about the loft reduction when they get damp?" In response to this need, we started the development process. The model name is a coined term derived from waterfowl native to Yosemite National Park in California.
Where does the secret lie that keeps insulation even when wet?
You can prevent external rain, snow, and mist by wearing a water-repellent shell on top. However, moisture from sweating can also contribute to wetting the down.
This moisture is also a major enemy of down jackets, as when the down absorbs moisture, it can collapse, resulting in reduced insulation and deformation. Hence, we re-evaluated the idea of making the "down itself water-repellent."

Using Clean Down from the Prestigious Kawada Feather

Water-repellent processing on down!? That's incredible.
Yes. This model uses down that has been treated with a water-repellent finish. Natural down, sourced from waterfowl, has a certain degree of water resistance. By applying a water-repellent finish to this down, we enhance its resistance to water. This technology is a trade secret of Kawada Feather, whose down is encapsulated in The North Face's down products. We re-evaluated the merits of water-repellent down and proceeded with development.
Kawada Feather is a representative down manufacturer in Japan.
Kawada Feather is a down material manufacturer that handles everything from down purification and processing to the production of down comforters in Japan. It is known for its excellent washing technology, using ultra-soft water that permeates the individual down and employs a cleaning method called "sharpened washing," which intricately collides the down. The Wouzel contains top-quality down from their Clean Down line.
Washing is crucial to enhance down performance.
That's right. By thoroughly removing dirt and dust attached to the down, it expands well, maximizing warmth, lightness, and softness. Additionally, the unique odor of down is less noticeable.
Moreover, it boasts 900 fill power! That's quite a spec.
Fill power quantifies how much the down can expand. The higher this number, the more air it can trap, making it harder for heat to escape and, therefore, enhancing insulation.

A Versatile Down Jacket that Can Be Used as Outerwear or Mid-Layer

What material is the surface made of? It seems to be a lightweight nylon.
This material incorporates a part of Pertex's Diamond Fuse. By using diamond-shaped nylon filament yarns, the surface is made flat while achieving strength and abrasion resistance. Furthermore, it has a water-repellent finish that repels light rain and snow. The unique stiffness and elegant sheen make it visually appealing.
Can you tell me about the silhouette? It looks quite sleek for a down jacket.
Yes. It features a box silhouette that is neither too slim nor too bulky. The balance has been adjusted to make it easy to wear both as a mid-layer and an outer layer. Although the loft and baffles[1] don't appear too pronounced, it utilizes top-grade down, ensuring that even a small amount provides sufficient warmth.
For those planning to buy a down jacket, I imagine they might feel overwhelmed by the numerous items from The North Face...
Each item has various design differences and specific specs, but the Wouzel is designed for use during outdoor activities. Its strengths lie in the functional aspects mentioned earlier, being easily employable as both a mid-layer and an outer layer. Thus, it's a versatile item that can be utilized from autumn through to early spring. Another feature of this model is its compact ability to be folded and stored in a stuff sack.
Its simplicity makes it easy to incorporate into styling.
It pairs well not only with casual outfits but also with polished looks like high-gauge turtlenecks and gray slacks. Additionally, there are two types available: a stand-collar jacket and a hooded hoodie, allowing for selection based on styling preferences.
Stand-collar "Wouzel Jacket," 47,300 yen (tax included)
What role do you foresee Wouzel playing in the brand's future?
Wouzel is a model that thoroughly incorporates necessary elements for outdoor gear. Consequently, it offers a variety of advantages for town use, such as remarkable resistance to rain and high adaptability. As a versatile outerwear that fits modern lifestyles, it is poised to be loved by a wide range of users as a down jacket.
Wouzel from The North Face excellently overcomes the weaknesses of down, likely becoming an indispensable asset for both outdoor and everyday use.

《Note》
[1]A structure that partitions the inner space where down is enclosed, resembling rooms. This design helps prevent the movement and uneven distribution of down, contributing to consistent thermal insulation across the entire outer layer.

Text by Ryota Osujo

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