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In Pursuit of the "Authentic Cuban Shirt": The Guayabera by y.a.bera
When the weather heats up, you'll find yourself naturally reaching for a light and airy shirt. Among the options, the "Cuban shirt," with its distinct Central and South American vibe, has soared in popularity as a summer staple in recent years.
With its open, breezy design, elegant embroidery, and relaxed silhouette, it's gaining attention as the perfect piece to add a unique flair to otherwise simple summer outfits.
This time, we spoke with Monrou Ebine, designer for "BARNSTORMER" and CEO of Apparel Village Co., Ltd., about the specialized Cuban shirt brand, "y.a.bera."
"The term 'Cuban shirt' is what we call it in Japan. In its homeland of Cuba, it's known as the 'Guayabera shirt' or sometimes just the 'Vera shirt.'"
"The roots of the Guayabera shirt are said to lie in the workwear worn by guava farmers in Cuba. The word 'guava' is the origin, which evolved into the name 'Guayabera.'"
"Over time, its use expanded, and in places like Mexico and the Caribbean islands, it evolved into a kind of formal wear, worn for ceremonial occasions like weddings and funerals."
"It's different from a Japanese wedding; the vibe is closer to a home party. It's often worn in such settings, with a culture of wearing short sleeves during the day and more formal long sleeves at night."
"While there are many different designs, the authentic style is typically a double-cuffed version. A Guayabera shirt paired with a linen jacket and a Panama hat—that's one of the classic formal styles in Cuba."
The Basic Details of a Guayabera Shirt
We asked about the fundamental details that define the Guayabera shirt. Let's dive into its charms while highlighting these key features."A Cuban Guayabera shirt is characterized by four patch pockets on the chest and hem, pleats (pintucks) down both sides, and embroidery. The distinctive pockets at the hem are said to be a remnant of the pockets used to hold harvested guavas."
"I think the image most people in Japan have of a Cuban shirt is the open-collar type. However, those are often based on styles sold in Cuban souvenir shops. Since they are adopted as casual wear in Japan, that type has become more popular."
"On the other hand, the traditional Guayabera shirt typically features a collar stand and snap buttons to fasten the collar points."
The Authentic Guayabera Shirts Crafted by y.a.bera
From here, let's take a closer look at the y.a.bera lineup to deepen our understanding of the details of an authentic Guayabera shirt.First, we asked about the meaning behind the distinctive pleats and embroidery.
"The brand we're introducing today, y.a.bera, is based in 'Little Havana' in Miami, Florida. The designer, Y.A., is someone who respects the history of the Guayabera shirt while challenging new forms of expression. I believe he is a key figure who will carry the future of the Guayabera shirt."
"The pleats are one detail that symbolizes its status as a formal shirt. At y.a.bera, you'll see many models with pleats on both sides of the front and on the back."
"As for the embroidery, it's characteristically inspired by the climate and culture of different regions. To use a classic embroidered model as an example, it features embroidery with motifs of stars, the sun, and the wind. This is an original y.a.bera embroidery based on traditional patterns, with a design themed around nature."
"This item is also the more formal long-sleeved model I mentioned earlier. While it doesn't have double cuffs, long-sleeved models are still quite rare among the Cuban shirts available in Japan, so I think it offers a fresh look."
A long-sleeved Guayabera shirt crafted from a cool, breezy, cotton-based fabric.
"There's also a short-sleeved Guayabera shirt featuring the same embroidery motifs. The colorful embroidery placed between the nature motifs incorporates the design of the Haitian flag. The cultural proximity between Central America and the Caribbean islands is close, and there are models with designs that reflect this background."
A Signature y.a.bera Piece Where Tradition Meets a Playful Spirit
Let's check out another piece that captures the unique personality of y.a.bera, all while honoring its rich history."This Guayabera shirt, with its striking, vibrant embroidery, features the Trogon, Cuba's national bird. What makes it unique is that we've intentionally left off one of the front pockets and covered the entire area with embroidery.
It stays true to the details of a traditional Guayabera shirt, yet it has an innovative feel. I believe it's a perfect example of y.a.bera's signature style."
To Little Havana in Search of the Authentic Guayabera
We asked about how y.a.bera came to be available in Japan. How did they discover the brand, and what led to its launch here?"It was around 2019, I believe. I discovered y.a.bera on Instagram and reached out to them directly. They told me if I went to 'Little Havana' in Miami, I could meet Y.A. himself and see the collection. So, on a trip to New York for a BARNSTORMER exhibition, I decided to extend my journey down to Miami.
Although y.a.bera is an American brand, its founder, Y.A., lives in Little Havana and has a profound understanding of Cuban culture. He cherishes this traditional background while simultaneously experimenting with new forms of expression. I really felt this commitment when I saw the pieces in person.
Another key feature of y.a.bera is that every piece is handcrafted by skilled artisans in Yucatán, Mexico—a region close to both Miami and Cuba. We carefully select items from their extensive lineup, and this year marks our eighth year of bringing the brand to Japan."
"Designer Y.A. deeply values traditional perspectives," explains Monrou. "At the same time, he has a playful spirit that drives him to explore new designs while respecting that heritage. I believe he's creating the Guayabera shirts that will set the next standard."
The Cuban shirt has become a popular summer staple in recent years. You can find y.a.bera's collection at the BARNSTORMER store in Kiyosumi-shirakawa, Tokyo, and on their online store.
If you're searching for an authentic Guayabera shirt, you absolutely have to check out y.a.bera.
BARNSTORMER 1-4-10-A Tokiwa, Koto-ku, Tokyo
PROFILE
Monrou Ebine
Representative of Apparel Village Co., Ltd.
After completing the foundation course at the Byam Shaw School of Art in London, he attended ESMOD JAPAN before joining Barnstormer Co., Ltd. He later worked as a freelance designer, eventually establishing Apparel Village Co., Ltd. and rebranding BARNSTORMER in 2014. In 2019, he started serving as the official Japanese distributor for y.a.bera.
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