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The New Frontier of Dress Shoes & Sneakers as Depicted by "YOAK"
With its sophisticated design and high-spec quality, "YOAK" has fans both domestically and internationally. In order to delve into its originality in shoemaking, we spoke with Atsushi Hiromoto, the CEO of FAM Co., Ltd. and the designer of YOAK, about the brand's origins, design inspirations, and production philosophies.
The Spark that Started YOAK
“YOAK began in the autumn and winter of 2015, so this year marks its 10th anniversary."Originally, I worked at an apparel manufacturer and a textile trading company, accumulating a wide range of design experience from clothing to shoes and accessories. While my corporate job was fulfilling, I desired to try a self-sufficient system of design, manufacturing, and sales, rather than being dependent on other companies like traditional apparel distribution. This desire led me to start my own brand.
"I wanted to pursue a new approach of having craftsmen produce leather shoes for sales exclusively through our online store.
"If you ask me to name ten clothing brands, I could easily do so, but when it comes to 'shoe brands,' I don't think it would come as smoothly as with clothing. The shoes I aimed to create are versatile for both on and off occasions, and they are unlike anything else out there, which made me want to try my hand at shoes.
"Thus, YOAK started with the concept of 'shoes that pair with shirts and jackets.'”
The 3 Models of the First Collection: Timeless Classics for the Last Decade
Now let's focus on discussing the items. The pieces released in the first collection remain incredibly important for the brand, shaping the current image of YOAK.“In the first collection, we released three models: 'ULYSE,' 'STANLEY,' and 'LUKE.' They were designed with sneaker-like aesthetics and patterns, but were crafted by leather shoemakers in Japan.
"It is often said that they are a hybrid of dress shoes and sneakers. During the 2010s, there weren't many products like this hybrid shoe, and the artisans faced several challenges initially due to more components and the unique forms compared to traditional leather shoes.
"The soles are designed for sneakers, but with the side Mackay method, they can be replaced just like dress shoes. Not only the soles but also the lining leather can be exchanged, allowing them to come back looking quite pristine, which I think is a significant difference from conventional sneakers.
"In terms of design, ULYSE draws inspiration from classic tennis shoes, STANLEY embodies the theme of the ultimate simple shoe, and LUKE utilizes a hook-and-loop feature for easy coordination as a design accent. These three models have become mainstays for YOAK since their release.”
A Turning Point: The Limited-Time Store at Isetan Men's Building
Initially, YOAK released its items exclusively through its own online store. However, an invitation to open a limited-time store at Isetan Shinjuku Men's Building, known as 'the best shoe-selling venue in Japan,' proved to be a crucial turning point.“About two years after starting the brand, I was approached by Isetan Men’s Building to host a limited-time store. Given that we had only operated online until then, we received a significant response.
"I personally worked on the sales floor, and it was incredibly busy. By the end of the two-week period, I was informed that we had achieved the highest sales of that year's limited-time stores, which was quite a surprise.
"This opportunity opened doors for us, leading to inquiries from various shops, and we began to be featured in select shops across the country.
"While we have conducted exhibitions a few times, I had doubts about the system itself, so I endeavored to bring samples to shops that approached us to ensure they could properly understand and purchase our products.”
*Currently, there is a permanent exhibition, boasting one of the most comprehensive product lineups in Japan.
Waterproof Leather with Scotchgard & Vibram Functional Soles: The Evolving Craftsmanship
After checking out YOAK's classic items, let's introduce another impressive series. These shoes represent a true hybrid, combining functional aspects with an urban design.“In recent years, the climate has changed, and we have been releasing shoes that can handle rain and are suitable for mountain wear, focusing on functionality.
"One item I would like to mention is called 'JOURNEY LEATHER.' It features 'Scotchgard leather' processed with water-repellent, waterproof, and stain-resistant treatments from 3M for the upper, while a waterproof film sandwiched in the lining enhances its waterproofness.
"Additionally, it uses a trekking sole from 'Vibram,' ensuring excellent durability and grip.
"While it's perfect for everyday life, the name JOURNEY implies that it can handle both city strolls and mountain hikes, equipped to tackle sudden rain during travels. The design, including the heel's shape, makes it suitable even for dressier setups."
The Stylish & Functional Latest Creation
Next, let's showcase another new release that embodies a simple yet stylish shoe design alongside functionality.“The latest item is called 'DERBY,' which updates the basic derby shoe shape using a Vibram sole.
"Its highly versatile design easily coordinates with various styles, and the Bristol Sole from Vibram provides exceptional grip, making it slip-resistant even on wet surfaces from rain or snow, while also reducing fatigue during prolonged walking.”
From what we've examined so far about YOAK's shoe craftsmanship, it's apparent that their approach significantly differs from traditional sneaker and leather shoe manufacturing, including the variety of leathers, soles, and intricate details.
Not only do they care about exterior design, but there’s also great attention to the interior, using all-leather linings and low-rebound insoles that conform to the wearer's feet over time. This design work, alongside their partnership with domestic leather shoe factories that uphold high quality, could be a significant factor in supporting YOAK.
Currently, aside from Japan, they have retail locations in Taiwan, South Korea, Thailand, and the UK, with distribution in France and the Netherlands set to begin soon. YOAK's unique shoe craftsmanship is starting to make its mark globally.
A POP UP STORE is scheduled to be held at Isetan Men's Building from January 15 (Wednesday) to January 28 (Tuesday), 2025.
PROFILE
Atsushi Hiromoto
Company Name: FAM, CEO
YOAK Designer
Born in 1979. After building a career at major manufacturers and trading companies, he became independent in 2016 and launched his brand "YOAK." He offers sophisticatedly designed shoes that pair well with shirts and jackets, available in key domestic and international retailers, including Isetan Men’s Building and United Arrows, as well as in the online store. He also focuses on branding, running "FAM Co., Ltd.," where he develops his brand while supporting other companies' brand strategies and production efforts, thus creating value from a multifaceted perspective.
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