2024.09.12
Hidden Masterpiece! Timberland's "3-Eye Classic Lug" Shines Again in the Reiwa Street Scene
Those who see this shoe and think, "Nostalgic!" might be people who experienced the Shibu-Kaji (Shibuya Casual) boom of the '80s and '90s. Yes, it's the "Timberland" "3-Eye Classic Handsewn Lug (hereafter, 3-Eye Classic Lug)."
This classic shoe, with its moccasin stitching and lug sole, has a strong presence and is known as a “hidden masterpiece” following the “Yellow Boots."
This once-legendary shoe has seen a resurgence in popularity over the past few years. Moreover, it is being sold to a younger generation in their 20s and 30s, who are unfamiliar with Shibu-Kaji.
Why is the "3-Eye Classic Lug" captivating the hearts of fashion freaks again? I asked Timberland's Bunta Oki for the reasons.
PROFILE
Bunta Oki
VF Japan Timberland Marketing Executive / Energy Marketing
A die-hard Timberland fan who has loved Yellow Boots since his first year of high school. He is considered a key figure in the revival of the "3-Eye Classic Lug"'s popularity
The Yellow Boots that Elevated the Brand's Recognition
First, let's review the brand's history."Timberland was founded in 1952 in Stratham, New Hampshire, USA. The brand was established by Nathan Schwartz, a Jewish Russian born into a family of shoemakers. Having built his career as a boot craftsman in Boston, he began operating a shoemaking company with his two sons in the early 1950s."
In 1973, utilizing injection molding technology that integrated the sole and upper without the use of needle and thread, they released the world's first completely waterproof boots that did not allow water to seep in through the seams between the sole and upper.
"These boots featured a nubuck leather upper with excellent waterproof properties and a rugged sole that provides high grip on rough terrain. The product name 'Timberland,' meaning ‘man of the forest,’ was given to these boots, but due to their bright coloration reminiscent of wheat, they eventually became known as 'Yellow Boots.'"
Initially, Yellow Boots were designed for workers in the woods, but they gained attention as a fashion item when embraced by Milanese fashionistas in the early '80s. By the late '80s, they became a symbol of B-BOY fashion as notable rappers from the West Coast of the United States began to wear them.
A Second Brand Icon for the Spring/Summer Season
Thanks to the popularity of Yellow Boots, Timberland became a global brand. So, how was the "3-Eye Classic Lug" born?
"It debuted in 1978. At that time, despite good sales of Yellow Boots, the sales tended to slow down in spring and summer due to their laced design. The brand needed to create a 'second brand icon' aligned with the spring-summer season."
They focused on leather boat shoes worn by American yachtsmen at the time. The design combined a moccasin-type upper with a lug sole. This model became the prototype for today’s "3-Eye Classic Lug," and it achieved success, entering Japan in the '80s.
"From the late '80s to the '90s, during the Shibu-Kaji boom, this model’s fame skyrocketed. A navy blazer, button-down shirt, jeans, and on the feet, ‘3-Eye Classic Lug’—it became a must-have item in the preppy style that was trending at the time."
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