AKIRA T-Shirts: The Scene (Part 2)- Soaring Prices, Resellers, Fakes... A Collector's Community Where Fashion Forges Connections

The "Japanese Manga/Anime x Fashion" boom all started with T-shirts from "AKIRA." Did you get a chance to read Part 1, where we traced the "AKIRA T-shirt scene" from the 1980s to the 2010s with insights from collector Tsuyoshi Takahashi?

In Part 2, we're diving into the current state of the collector world, both in Japan and overseas, and unearthing new secrets about the legendary "AKIRA T-shirts."

The History of the "AKIRA T-shirt"

By 2020—a year after 2019, the year 『アキラ』 is set in—the "AKIRA T-shirt" had firmly established itself as a must-have fashion item, causing prices on the vintage market to soar. The scene was flooded with resellers and fakes.

It was amidst this chaos that Takahashi launched an Instagram account dedicated exclusively to showcasing his "AKIRA T-shirt" collection.

"I'd been collecting them since before the craze hit. By studying the tags, copyright credits, and the T-shirt blanks themselves, I slowly pieced together which 'AKIRA T-shirts' were created and when. That's when I decided to build a database," he explains.

Below is a timeline of the "AKIRA T-shirt" lineup, based on Takahashi's research and centered on official releases.

A glance at the chart reveals that the [13. Supreme x AKIRA] collaboration, which really ignited the current boom, is a relatively recent addition. The items Takahashi cherishes most are the very first official T-shirts featuring Katsuhiro Otomo's illustrations, such as the [1. Young Magazine giveaway prize] (Tag: Atelier Morita).

However, the shirts that really took over the secondhand market as "vintage AKIRA T-shirts" were the US-licensed tees from the mid-period, produced by [6. FASHION VICTIM]. In other words, the boom was essentially a "re-import" phenomenon.

Beyond the official releases, a vast number of bootlegs exist. Designs from [4. ANARCHIC ADJUSTMENT] and [8. DUB FACTORY] are classic examples, produced by skater and BMX brands in the 1990s. They've since been re-evaluated for their exceptional design and rarity. It's clear that streetwear was tuned into "AKIRA" long before Supreme entered the picture.

In addition, other official "AKIRA T-shirts" and staff-only apparel have been confirmed, produced in small batches for various events both in Japan and internationally.

While the rest of the world was frantically hunting for high-priced shirts, almost no one was doing what Takahashi was: meticulously analyzing the physical items to gather detailed information.

Obsession vs. Reselling: The Collector's Journey

Takahashi's Instagram account quickly caught the eye of collectors and vintage dealers across the globe. Every time he posted a new piece, his DMs would be flooded with "Sell it to me!" messages.

"I rejected all the DMs that were purely for buying, but some led to fascinating encounters. For instance, a young American collector who casually rocked an ultra-rare Marvel 'Grafitti' T-shirt (1990s, Chart Ref. 3) introduced me to the world of T-shirts featuring the French artist Mœbius, a major influence on Katsuhiro Otomo. I even got a DM from someone asking me to authenticate an 'AKIRA T-shirt' their dad owned. It turned out to be real! (laughs). I hope they treasure it and pass it down."

Through social media, I discovered a massive global 'AKIRA T-shirt scene.' But as an enthusiast, I also came face-to-face with a harsh reality.

"As the market price for 'AKIRA T-shirts' skyrocketed, I saw so many so-called collectors—people who were supposed to be gathering them out of love—flipping their collections for exorbitant prices or even making and selling their own shoddy bootlegs. And you know what? I've never seen the creators of those bootlegs actually wear them. Fashion is valuable because you wear it yourself. What's the point of jacking up prices and turning it into a business aimed at the wealthy...?"

Even now, about five years after launching his account, Takahashi continues to showcase his items, maintaining a firm "Not for sale" stance.

"I plan to one day compile my collection into a book, documenting the culture of 'AKIRA T-shirts.' If I can, I'd love to get a commemorative 'AKIRA T-shirt' officially produced for the occasion (I already have 10 designs ready!). I want young fashion lovers to be able to buy it at a fair price. Because culture, in any era, should be driven by the youth."

Takahashi's passion project would eventually lead him to a pivotal community.

For this feature, we had the opportunity to speak with Kimono My House (hereafter KMH), along with Takahashi. When discussing the world of 'AKIRA T-shirts,' KMH's role is nothing short of monumental.

They were the manufacturer that sold the very first officially licensed overseas T-shirt and continued production into the late '90s. Founder Susan Horn recalls the birth of the 'AKIRA T-shirt' in 1990.

"KMH had been selling toys and merchandise from Japanese anime titles since the 1980s. Through those connections, the production committee for the *AKIRA* film asked us to create some promotional merchandise."

The license was acquired from Streamline Pictures, the company that distributed the *AKIRA* film in the United States. They were a legendary distributor, importing countless Japanese anime and giving rise to the 'JAPANIMATION' fandom.

Between 1990 and 1992, KMH produced a total of five different 'AKIRA T-shirt' designs.

"The T-shirts were sold wholesale to local conventions and comic book shops, and they sold well right from the start," says Susan. "But back then, we never could have imagined they would become such a significant piece of anime history."

When those same T-shirts were purchased by Kodansha and given away as a 'Young Magazine reader prize,' it marked the first time the overseas 'AKIRA T-shirt' landed in Japan.

"To create the 'AKIRA T-shirts,' we experimented with all kinds of fabrics and blanks. Short sleeves, long sleeves, jackets, dresses, sweatshirts... anything we could get our hands on. I did the design work, and my partner AZ created the prints. It was all done by hand, without computers."

A key appeal of KMH's 'AKIRA T-shirts' is their superb design. Hearing the behind-the-scenes story of how they created such free-spirited designs, untethered from the source material, was a long-cherished dream for Takahashi as a collector.

"For the 'Bike' design, we wanted to make the iconic 'Kaneda's Bike' the absolute centerpiece. We adjusted the overall color scheme, and I believe it was AZ's idea to pair the red bike with the fluorescent pill."

The early KMH T-shirts include a credit for the designer, AZ. Susan then shared a piece of history almost unknown in Japan. Any 'AKIRA T-shirt' fanatic would surely recognize these two shirts, wouldn't they?

The one on the left is by KMH, the one on the right by Fashion Victim. The designs are nearly identical. Could it be that one of the most iconic 'vintage AKIRA T-shirts' was actually a knockoff...?

"I believe one of the print shops we commissioned secretly sold our T-shirt screens to Fashion Victim," Susan explains. "There's no concrete proof, but it would be impossible to create such a perfect copy without the original screens or artwork..."

Fashion Victim has since shut down, so there's no way to confirm the story's authenticity. But Susan's words are credible. After all, if you look closely at the Fashion Victim T-shirt, you'll find AZ's signature on it.

"I want people to remember that there are a lot of false rumors out there about 'AKIRA T-shirts.' But I don't let it bother me. At KMH, our focus has always been on the anime fans who came to our shop. They were the ones who taught us just how groundbreaking of a masterpiece *AKIRA* truly is."

KMH is not only the birthplace of the "AKIRA T" but also a hidden gem for vintage anime merchandise located in Emeryville, California. It's a dream destination for fans of Japanese anime.

"I originally started the shop to import and sell kimonos after living in Japan for two years in the late 1970s. We began carrying anime merchandise in the '80s at our customers' request. Now, customers who came here as kids are bringing their own children. The fans even help me run the place."

So says Susan, who is now 74. She introduced us to a regular, 19-year-old local Brandon Sargent, telling us, "He's the one to ask about KMH."

"KMH is just a 30-minute drive from my house. I was 17 the first time I visited. I was instantly hooked the moment I stepped inside, and I remember going home to look up all the titles I didn't recognize: 'Area 88,' 'Lensman,' 'Grey: Digital Target,' 'Robot Carnival'... I couldn't believe there was a treasure trove of vintage anime right in my backyard!" says Brandon.

Brandon started snapping up discontinued KMH merchandise, including the "AKIRA T," at auctions and would show his finds to Susan. Their relationship has blossomed beyond shopkeeper and customer; they're more like friends.

"My collection of KMH T-shirts has grown to over 80 pieces now. It's a bummer that some items have become too expensive for me to buy as prices skyrocket... But more important to me than just collecting merch is hearing Susan's stories from back in the day."

Still loved by collectors today, KIMONO MY HOUSE has shown us—in a world often distracted by brands and hype prices—the true meaning of a "community built on affection" (愛着界隈), where clothing connects people.

And that's a wrap on our coverage of the "AKIRA T scene." But the connection between Takahashi, Susan, and Brandon is just getting started. We hope that everyone reading this finds a "scene" of their own.