Are Retinoids the Secret to Anti-Aging? A Doctor Explains Why Consistency Is Key to Beautiful Skin

Retinol is celebrated for its wide range of benefits, making it a must-have for anyone serious about anti-aging. Since Japan's Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare approved retinol in 2017 as a quasi-drug ingredient with "wrinkle-improving effects," the cosmetics industry has seen a surge in products featuring this powerhouse ingredient.

However, many struggle with retinol due to the infamous "retinoid reaction"—redness and peeling that can make consistent use a challenge. We also often hear people say, "I'm not sure how to use it correctly." That's why we spoke with Dr. Masatoshi Takemura, the supervising physician for the online skin treatment service 'ANS.,' to learn how to unlock the full anti-aging potential of retinol.

First, let's have Dr. Takemura break down what retinol is and the medical evidence behind it.

"You often see information comparing 'types of retinol,' but it's easier to understand if you replace the word 'retinol' with 'retinoid.' Retinoid is the umbrella term for vitamin A and its derivatives, while retinol refers to vitamin A itself.

Specifically, retinoids work on the skin by speeding up cell turnover, boosting collagen and hyaluronic acid production, and regulating sebum. The result? Firmer, more radiant skin, with visible improvements in pores, fine lines, and dullness.

However, retinol itself has very little physiological activity. Once absorbed by the skin, it's carried to the cell's nucleus and converted into its active form, retinoic acid. This retinoic acid is what actually does the work by regulating gene expression—the process that controls protein synthesis—to deliver its benefits.

From both a medical and physiological perspective, retinoids are the number one substance for anti-aging. While Vitamin C is valued for its antioxidant properties, it can't stimulate fibroblasts—the cells that produce collagen—as powerfully as retinoids, no matter the concentration.

If you asked any cosmetic doctor specializing in anti-aging, 'If you could only use one ingredient, what would it be?' they would all say retinoids."

Why Effects Vary and How to Address It

The effectiveness of retinoids is known to vary from person to person. So what determines the results and whether someone experiences the "retinoid reaction" of redness and peeling?

"One of the key reasons why the anti-aging effects of retinoids vary is the skin's condition, such as a weakened barrier function (meaning a thinner outer layer, or stratum corneum).

Along with foundational lifestyle habits like getting enough sleep and eating well, consistent use of retinoids is crucial for seeing results. This is true for all skincare, and retinoids are no exception—consistency is everything.

The redness and peeling that many people experience when using retinoids, known as the 'retinoid reaction,' is part of the process of how Vitamin A works. Whether you experience it or not can depend on differences in gene expression and your skin's natural Vitamin A levels. The symptoms, like peeling from accelerated cell turnover and redness from inflammation, are signs of this process.

Even if the retinoid reaction happens, your skin will adapt, and its turnover and barrier function will eventually stabilize, so it's usually fine to wait it out. It's not a bad thing—in fact, it's a sign that the retinoid is doing its job.

However, it's important for a doctor to distinguish between a retinoid reaction and an allergic reaction to another ingredient in the product. Allergic reactions won't improve over time, so if that's the case, you should consult a doctor."

Retinoids: "You Should Use Them for a Lifetime"

So, what's the best approach for first-time retinoid users or those worried about the reaction? We asked Dr. Takemura for his professional advice.

"To see the anti-aging benefits of retinoids, I recommend using them continuously for at least three months. When it comes to beautiful skin, I believe there's no reason to ever stop using retinoids—you should use them for life. Maintaining a constant supply of Vitamin A in your skin is absolutely crucial for anti-aging.

To make consistent use easier, it's vital to start with a low concentration if you're a beginner and to adjust the frequency, like applying it every other day."

What is the difference between the retinoids used in medical institutions and those in commercial cosmetics?

"While retinoids used in medical facilities have the advantage of letting you feel the effects more easily, commercial cosmetics are typically designed to be user-friendly and easy to incorporate into a long-term routine.

Some vitamin A derivatives, like tretinoin (all-trans retinoic acid) and isotretinoin (13-cis-retinoic acid), are highly bioactive and classified as pharmaceuticals that require a doctor's prescription.

Milder alternatives include retinol and retinal, as well as the highly stable and less irritating retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate. There are also synthetic retinoids like adapalene and tazarotene.

Medical-grade tretinoin is custom-formulated at each clinic, leading to variations in concentration. It's also crucial to store it properly, as the ingredients can degrade if you don't.

When pursuing medical-grade anti-aging care, it is vital to receive guidance from a clinic on skincare methods and how to apply care products. Many serious skin issues arise from users making their own judgments, such as applying prescribed tretinoin all over their face, not adhering to the recommended amount, or storing it improperly. Strictly following the provided instructions is the key to continuing your retinoid care safely."

The Secret to a Formulation Balancing Offense and Defense

Dr. Takemura asserts the importance of consistent retinoid care.

"Retinoids are essential for anti-aging care, but consistency is crucial for results. However, some of my patients find it impossible to continue because the 'A-reaction' becomes a major hurdle.

The 'LipoRetinoSerum®,' which I was involved in developing, was created to address the high number of people who quit early due to the retinoid A-reaction. We focused on making it easy to start and stick with by lowering the retinoid concentration. To prevent this early dropout, we carefully thought out a balance of 'offense' and 'defense' to minimize irritation while still delivering results."

"LipoRetinoSerum®" has three key features.

The first is "offense" and "penetration" powered by "Nanotechnology and Liposome Technology." It's critical that the retinol we use reaches the skin without degrading. To achieve this, we employed nanotechnology and liposome technology to enhance its affinity with the stratum corneum, allowing the ingredients to be absorbed quickly and delivered deep into the skin (*up to the stratum corneum).

The second is "defense" through the "Inclusion of Ceramides." We've added ceramides to support the skin's barrier function, which can be compromised by the A-reaction. This is intended to prevent a strong A-reaction as much as possible.

The third is our commitment to "quality preservation" via a "Deoxygenated Manufacturing Process." To stop ingredients like retinol from degrading due to reactions with oxygen or moisture, we use a manufacturing process that removes oxygen.

"From a doctor's perspective, I feel this product is very user-friendly, both for newcomers and for those who have struggled to stick with retinoids in the past. People typically start retinoid care in their late 20s to late 30s. However, it's a good idea to start whenever you become concerned about aging, regardless of your age."

ANS. currently offers an online consultation service that uses the LINE app. This system allows you to receive a doctor's consultation with just a smartphone and manage your skin from the comfort of your home. Dr. Takemura, whom we interviewed, was the first person in Japan to officially use the term "online medical consultation" and was a pioneer in implementing the system.

"The most important factor in achieving beautiful skin is 'continuation.' I believe IT is an extremely effective tool for supporting that continuation. At ANS., we've introduced the 'HADA Log' feature, which lets users record and review daily photos of their skin. By visualizing changes over time, we can help them stay motivated and stick with their skincare routine.

While evaluating skin conditions on the 'HADA Log' is legally considered a medical examination under the Medical Practitioners' Act and therefore cannot be performed, IT still allows us to provide continuous support for treatment even when a doctor is not directly involved. As a result, I feel the continuation rate for treatments involving retinoids has improved."

Dr. Takemura champions the philosophy of "Beautiful Skin for Life," emphasizing that "sticking with it" is the key to experiencing the anti-aging benefits of retinoids. By combining ANS.'s "LipoRetinoSerum®" with its LINE-based service, users can maintain their daily motivation and seamlessly continue their retinoid care without stress.