Why Won't My Blackheads Go Away? Kao Biore Uncovers the True Nature of Clogged Pores and Its New Cleansing Technology

Blackheads and clogged pores—it's a skin issue that has plagued countless people for years. With so much information out there on pore care, Kao's skincare brand Biore has unveiled its solution: the 'Keratin Plug Melting Cleansing Technology.'

First introduced in 2017 to great acclaim, this technology has been continuously refined and improved. The 'Biore Ouchi de Esthe Deep Clay Cleanser,' launched in April 2024, incorporates a new version of this technology designed to break down even the 'hidden keratin plugs' lurking deep inside pores.

How did Kao manage to unravel the mysteries of keratin plugs and develop this groundbreaking technology? We sat down with Masaki Tani and Yuito Muroi from the company to discuss the development process and Biore's recommended approach to proper pore care.

The Truth About Blackheads: They're Like Grime on a Ventilation Fan

The number of people worried about their pores is increasing every year. According to Masaki Tani, who handles marketing, climate change and lifestyle shifts are the main culprits.

'With climate change, which some now refer to as 'global boiling,' we're in an environment where sweat and sebum are becoming more noticeable every year. Concurrently, we believe the rising use of highly water-resistant sunscreens and makeup primers is also a factor in the growing concern over pores.'

'Moreover, social media has become a part of daily life, and we're seeing our own and others' skin up close through high-resolution cameras more often. This increased exposure to skincare information has fueled the desire for 'skin with less visible pores.' Since the pandemic, there's been a growing trend toward a 'bare-skin' look, and I sense that people are investing more in their skin,' says Tani.

In a 2024 Kao survey, 75% of respondents indicated they were 'concerned about dirt in their pores.' The number of people using facial cleansers and makeup removers for pore care has also increased by approximately 1.5 times since 2018.

Despite these efforts, satisfaction with pore care products sits at a mere 23%. Faced with numerous complaints that treatments like chemical peels fail to provide a lasting solution for blackheads, Kao embarked on a mission to uncover their 'true nature.'

Yuito Muroi explains the findings from their analysis of approximately 82,000 pores with blackheads.

'It was known that several factors could make pores appear dark, including shadows from uneven skin texture, hyperpigmentation, and fine hairs, but the main cause was a mystery. Our analysis revealed that keratin plugs accounted for over 80% of the area of a blackhead. In short, these plugs were the primary cause,' says Muroi.

So, what makes these keratin plugs so stubborn?

'Keratin plugs have an incredibly complex structure, formed by alternating layers of hardened, butter-like sebum and proteins from the outer layer of the skin. Think of it like the greasy grime and dust that gets stuck on a kitchen fan. This composition makes them extremely difficult to remove with standard facial cleansers,' Muroi explains.

A Breakthrough Discovery: 'Keratin Plug Melting Cleansing Technology' and a New Challenge

To tackle these stubborn keratin plugs, Kao discovered an ingredient called 'tromethamine.'

“Tromethamine targets the hardened sebum within keratin plugs and transforms it into a state that more readily blends with water. As a result, the plug absorbs moisture from its surroundings and gradually breaks down on its own. This is what we call our ‘Keratin Plug Breakdown Cleansing Technology.’”

While this might bring to mind a harsh, stripping cleanser, we actually have data proving it cleanses effectively without damaging the skin's natural moisture barrier," Muroi explains.

Unlike typical enzyme cleansers that primarily target protein, tromethamine goes after the stubborn, hardened sebum. The fact that it can do this without harming the skin's moisture barrier is what makes this technology so groundbreaking.

This technology was first introduced in a product launched in 2017 and received enthusiastic feedback from users, with comments such as, “My skin feels less rough,” and “My face feels incredibly smooth.”

However, this also brought a new challenge to light.

"We started hearing from customers with deep-set pore concerns that 'it doesn't get rid of the blackheads deep down in the pores.' When we looked into it, we discovered that the majority of a keratin plug is actually hidden deep inside the pore; only the tip is visible. It became clear that our existing technology struggled to get the tromethamine to work that deep," Muroi shares.

The challenge was clear: how could they deliver tromethamine deep into the pores while striking a perfect balance between powerful cleansing and gentleness on the skin? The development process was anything but easy.

A New Keratin Plug Dissolving Technology That 'Reaches Deep Down'

After countless trials, the research team finally arrived at a breakthrough: combining tromethamine with micropowder.

"By pairing it with an extremely fine micro-powder measuring just a few dozen microns, we made it possible to target even the hidden keratin plugs deep within the pores.

First, the tromethamine softens the surface of the keratin plug. Then, the loosened material clings to the micro-powder, which helps draw it out of the pore. This continuous action allows the tromethamine to penetrate even deeper, enabling it to break down the hidden parts of the plug as well," explains Muroi.

This innovative technology is featured in the new “Ouchi de Esthe Deep Clay Cleanser,” launched in April 2026.

The micro-powder is composed of ingredients like kaolin, corn starch, and cellulose. While these are common in makeup products, combining them with tromethamine in a facial cleanser was a novel approach.

"Working with the micro-powder was incredibly tricky. If you just mix it in, it clumps up like cornstarch or flour. That would create a gritty, physically abrasive texture on the skin, so we had to find a way to disperse it perfectly. It took a lot of effort adjusting the ingredient balance and manufacturing process to finally achieve a silky-smooth, non-gritty feel.

“Thanks to its unique texture and strong adherence to the skin, we also recommend using the ‘Ouchi de Esthe Deep Clay Cleanser’ as a face pack by leaving it on for about one minute,” Muroi adds.

Featuring the advanced Keratin Plug Breakdown Cleansing Technology, “Ouchi de Esthe Deep Clay Cleanser” generated significant buzz immediately after its launch.

“We offered a pre-launch through select online stores, and the first day’s inventory sold out within hours. During the pre-launch period, shipments reached approximately 16 times our initial plan. The product also ranked No. 1 on Amazon’s Best Sellers list, not only in the facial cleanser category but across the entire Beauty category as well, as of March 16, 2026. On social media and in reviews, many users have shared positive feedback, saying things like, ‘I can really feel it working on blackhead buildup,’ and ‘My skin feels smooth after just one use,’” says Tani.

Social media is full of pore care tips that spread like urban legends, but what's the right way to care for your pores?

"For proper care, we recommend starting with cleansing twice a day. Your skin produces sebum even while you sleep, so it's important to wash it off with a cleanser in the morning. That said, everyone's skin is different. If you find that a morning cleanse leaves your skin feeling too dry, it's best to adjust your routine. The key is to listen to your skin and find what works for you.

It's also crucial to remember that tromethamine is less effective when makeup is present, so always be sure to thoroughly remove your makeup before cleansing," Muroi advises.

"What's most important to us in product development is delivering tangible results that our customers can truly feel and experience. Pores are just one of many skin concerns, and we are committed to listening to our customers' feedback to shape our future innovations," Tani states.

“Ouchi de Esthe Deep Clay Cleanser” features a new technology designed to break down even keratin plugs hidden deep inside pores. By addressing one of the root causes of stubborn blackheads while remaining gentle on the skin, the product offers a promising new option for many consumers.