Should We Avoid Chemical Sunscreens? FEMMUE's Bold Move to Develop a New Standard for UV Protection in the Natural and Organic Industry

FEMMUE is a natural cosmetics brand from South Korea that harnesses the power of flowers. While the brand has earned a loyal following for both its makeup and skincare, today we're zeroing in on its sunscreen, set for a renewal in 2025.

We're diving deep into the groundbreaking formulation technology and the secret development stories behind FEMMUE's sunscreen. We also sat down with the team to explore the different values and common ground between Japan and South Korea when it comes to sun protection and the pursuit of radiant, fair skin.

From 'Avoiding' the Sun to 'Loving' It

FEMMUE is a South Korean brand born from the inspiration of the vitality and delicate energy of flowers. The brand's philosophy is rooted in the personal experience of its developer and founder, Kelly Chung, who found healing in the colors, scents, and fleeting moments of flower arranging amidst her busy life.

This ethos extends to their sunscreens, with the series name "WE LOVE SUN" conveying a literally positive message about the sun.

"When our founder, Kelly, was staying in the United States, she was struck by how the entire city was enveloped in a positive atmosphere the moment the sun broke through after a long stretch of cloudy days.

We don't see UV rays as something to simply be avoided. Instead, we believe sunlight is a vital element that brings energy to our skin and our lives. FEMMUE's sunscreens were developed from the perspective of enjoying the sunlight while keeping your skin healthy and protected."

The two revamped sunscreen products are said to promote healthy skin through different approaches, each leveraging the unique properties of flowers.

"The 'We Love Sun Gentle Tone-Up UV Cream' is formulated with a pink flower complex—featuring rose, cherry blossom, and lotus flower—and niacinamide. It features a soft pink-beige base that melts into your skin tone without leaving a white cast, naturally covering unevenness and dullness. It gives your skin a radiant glow while subtly brightening your overall complexion."

"The other product, the 'We Love Sun Fresh Relief UV Cream,' is formulated with Centella Asiatica, panthenol, and glutathione. It focuses on soothing sensitive or reactive skin that is prone to irritation from UV rays. The finish is so light and hydrating, it feels just like applying a beauty serum."

Both products offer SPF50+ and PA++++ protection, the highest level available in Japan.

The standout feature of this renewal is its bold move to embrace "UV absorbers"—often considered taboo in the natural and organic world—and combine them in an optimal balance with "UV scatterers."

"Our biggest challenge was maintaining a light, comfortable feel while achieving Japan's highest UV protection factor (SPF50+, PA++++). Our previous product used only scatterers, which led to concerns about a heavy texture and quality instability due to separation. By incorporating absorbers this time, we were able to reduce that occlusive feeling and further improve formula stability."

That said, introducing a product with UV absorbers posed a major hurdle for organically minded users and retailers.

This was a bold decision, given the negative perception of UV absorbers, with concerns that they "cause skin irritation and damage coral reefs."

At FEMMUE, however, we use eco-conscious UV absorbers that exclude ingredients like oxybenzone, which is banned by law in Hawaii, and also meet the even stricter standards of Palau, where certain preservatives such as parabens are also prohibited.

Since the renewal, rather than receiving negative feedback, we have heard many positive comments from customers, such as "The texture feels better."

This highlights an important point: rather than simply labeling UV absorbers as "bad," what matters is creating a formula that carefully considers both environmental impact and skin compatibility.

In Korea, UV Care is Part of Skincare, Not Makeup

Hailing from the beauty powerhouse of South Korea, FEMMUE offers a unique perspective. So, what are the key differences in how people in Japan and Korea approach UV care and skin brightening?

"In Japan, sunscreen is often seen as part of makeup, whereas in Korea, UV protection is a fundamental step in the skincare routine. Many people in Korea are concerned about airborne pollutants like PM2.5, creating an environment where skin can easily become sensitive. Therefore, the demand is for lightweight, comfortable products that pack a high SPF and double as skincare.

Additionally, because aesthetic medicine is deeply ingrained in daily life in Korea, cosmetic ingredients that have spread from clinical settings, like the glutathione in our 'We Love Sun Fresh Relief UV Cream,' are also popular. In terms of beauty values, it's become standard to care for the skin through the dual approach of skincare and aesthetic procedures."

Fascinating cultural differences also emerge when it comes to physically blocking out the sun.

"In Japan, we're seeing more people, including men and children, using parasols, but in Korea, it's rare to see anyone, even women, using them; most people opt for sunglasses instead. The general approach seems to be creating a flawless base with sunscreen and cushion foundation, and if sunspots still appear, they turn to aesthetic procedures.

Regarding the finish of base makeup, many people don't mind if the color of their face and neck doesn't quite match, preferring to brighten their facial tone by one shade. A 'dewy glow' that gives the skin a radiant, almost luminous finish is highly coveted."

From "Looking White" to "Nurturing Brighter Skin": A New Trend Common to Japan and Korea

At the same time, some new trends are taking hold in both Japan and Korea.

"Among the younger generation in Japan, there's a growing desire to make their faces look whiter, inspired by an admiration for K-pop culture. While some people apply heavy, caked-on makeup, the bigger trend in both countries is a shift toward 'nurturing your own bare skin to be naturally bright and translucent.'

Looking ahead, FEMMUE is committed to creating products that drench the skin in moisture with the essence of flowers, helping it stay bright and translucent. Beyond just pursuing functionality, we aim to be a brand that delivers a sensory joy from the moment of use and a comfort you can feel on your skin.

We want to share FEMMUE's unique floral skincare philosophy beyond Korea with the global market, including Japan."

What’s also reassuring is that FEMMUE's products, developed by Kelly Chung, who herself has sensitive skin, are designed to be comfortable for Japanese users with sensitive or dry skin. By balancing skin-friendly and eco-conscious ingredients with a fantastic user experience, FEMMUE's sunscreen is set to give us a radiant clarity and a healthy glow, empowering us to shine even under the sun.