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"Hada Labo Gokujyun" Celebrates 20 Years: The Current Status of ROHTO Pharmaceutical's Focus on "Hyaluronic Acid Research"

2024.11.21

Now a familiar skincare ingredient, hyaluronic acid has been researched by ROHTO Pharmaceutical for over 20 years.

Launched in 2004, "Hada Labo Gokujyun" has evolved with renewed formulations, leveraging long-acquired knowledge and incorporating the latest technologies, becoming a best-selling product.

We spoke with Masako Iwamura from ROHTO Pharmaceutical's public relations department to discuss the company’s hyaluronic acid research and how that knowledge is applied to their products.

PROFILE

Masako Iwamura

ROHTO Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd. Public Relations & CSV Promotion Department Public Relations Group

Hyaluronic Acid Present in Various Parts of the Body

Can you tell us how your company began its hyaluronic acid research?

Hyaluronic acid is now known as a moisturizing component for the skin, but it is actually a substance present throughout the body. Our company is also known for eye drops, and through research on the eyes, we discovered that hyaluronic acid is abundantly found in the vitreous body and is effective in enhancing the natural healing ability of corneal cells, along with having high safety as a medical active ingredient. This led to our research on hyaluronic acid.

So, the research initially started with the eyes. What led it to be applied in skincare?

Hyaluronic acid is essential for the body as it helps prevent dryness in the eyes and facilitates smooth joint movement. It is said that about 50% of the hyaluronic acid in the body is present in the skin. However, production of hyaluronic acid declines with age, peaking in the 20s. This realization led to research into the use of hyaluronic acid in skincare beginning around 2003.

What role does hyaluronic acid play in skincare?

Hyaluronic acid is a moisturizing component that can retain up to 6 liters of moisture in just 1 gram. High-molecular hyaluronic acid stays on the skin's surface to prevent dryness, while its low-molecular counterparts penetrate the skin to provide a plump and firm feel. However, there are still many aspects that remain unresolved regarding its properties.

A Desire to Pack Good Ingredients into Skincare

"Hada Labo Gokujyun" celebrates its 20th anniversary this year

It's interesting that while hyaluronic acid is a long-admired ingredient, there are still unknown aspects. Can you tell us about the background behind the creation of "Hada Labo Gokujyun," which stemmed from this hyaluronic acid research?

In 2004, when the product was launched, retail sales by cosmetics manufacturers were the norm, and there was less activation of self-service cosmetics in drugstores. Many products were expensive and expressed a brand's worldview, and hyaluronic acid was regarded as a luxurious ingredient found in prestige brands. This inspired product planners of the time to question whether it was possible to create cosmetics that were affordably priced but packed with good ingredients for the skin. Development then began.

The developers focused on incorporating a generous amount of hyaluronic acid. To ensure a well-moisturized formulation, they considered allocating a majority of the budget to hyaluronic acid in the formulation and pursued this direction. Even during adjustments for usage experience, they aimed to keep the hyaluronic acid content as high as possible.

This commitment to creating “the most hydrating product” gave birth to the concept of "Perfect Simple" for Hada Labo.

How were you able to bring this product to market while incorporating ample hyaluronic acid?

A clear example is the packaging. It was unheard of at the time to place products on store shelves in exposed conditions without wrapping in a cardboard box. In addition, by standardizing the packaging across the entire series, they improved production efficiency while being utterly committed to "Perfect Simple."

Initially, there were doubts such as "Will this sell?" because it was so different from previous concepts of cosmetics, but now 20 years later, many people support us, and the total sales of the series in Japan have surpassed 407 million units［1］. It is loved by people of all ages, regardless of gender.

Can you tell us about your commitment to hyaluronic acid in "Hada Labo Gokujyun"?

There are various types of hyaluronic acid. Additionally, even the same type can change in texture by adjusting the blending ratio and molecular weight. Thus, Hada Labo employs eight different types of hyaluronic acid, varying by series and item.

Super Hyaluronic Acid A component with twice the moisture-retaining ability of regular hyaluronic acid
Skin-Attaching Hyaluronic Acid A component that specializes in adhering to the skin with the power of ions, maintaining skin moisture
Nano Hyaluronic Acid A component with smaller molecular weight, enhancing penetration into the skin
3D Hyaluronic Acid A component that has the property of trapping moisture on the skin's surface
Pentrating Hyaluronic Acid A component with an even smaller molecular weight than nano hyaluronic acid, penetrating down to the stratum corneum
Lactic Acid Fermented Hyaluronic Acid A hyaluronic acid developed in-house, contributing to moisture retention while also aiding in cell adhesion and reducing moisture evaporation from within the skin
Hyalorepair A cutting-edge hyaluronic acid that possesses both water and oil properties, filling the skin with moisture

Since its launch in 2004, research on hyaluronic acid has evolved daily. However, not all new hyaluronic acids are superior, nor does it suffice to merely combine various types of hyaluronic acid. We always keep our customers at the forefront, conducting research on which combination of hyaluronic acids is best suited to address the skin concerns of our users. As a result, we formulate products with hyaluronic acid that aligns with their purpose.

Do you have any other commitments?

"Hada Labo" is committed to "Perfectly Simple," incorporating only what the skin truly needs. Specifically, we achieve fragrance-free, colorant-free, alcohol-free, paraben-free, and oil-free formulations.

Additionally, we pay attention to the quality of water, the main ingredient in our lotions. Typically, there are no clear standards for the water used in cosmetics; however, at Hada Labo, we use purified water of the same grade as that used in pharmaceutical manufacturing.

Furthermore, we are particular about texture. In fact, we conducted a study measuring brain waves, cerebral blood flow, and heart rate while applying "Hada Labo Gokujyun" to analyze why it is favored. The results showed a high appreciation for the penetrative feel and the soft texture of Gokujyun, indicating that users may experience comfort while using it.

Since it is something to be used daily, we are especially particular about ensuring a pleasant texture.

Expectations for Advancing Hyaluronic Acid Research Worldwide

How do you view the future development of hyaluronic acid research?

First of all, as I mentioned earlier, the specific mechanisms by which hyaluronic acid in the body functions have not been fully elucidated and are still being researched worldwide. We will continue to explore hyaluronic acid heavily in various fields such as skincare, eye care, oral intake, food, and regenerative medicine.

As a beauty ingredient, the properties and penetrability can change based on adjustments to molecular weight and the types of components it combines with. I believe new attractions will emerge in the future. It is still a component that holds significant potential.

Please tell us about the future outlook for "Hada Labo."

Moving forward, while continuing to develop products that cater to our customers' skin concerns, we aim to propose more borderless and challenging skincare solutions. "Hada Labo" is already deployed in over 20 countries worldwide, and we strive to become a standard global brand.

As it gets colder and drier, we hope to achieve hydrated skin this winter with the power of the latest hyaluronic acid research.

《Note》
[1] As of the end of March 2024

Text by Junko Hayashida