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Is Too Much "Toner" a No-Go? The Correct Moisturizing Method Proposed by the Skin Care Brand Hautschild Developed by German Dermatologists
"Moisten your skin adequately with toner and seal it with cream"
This phrase is often heard in the packaging and media of skincare products. However, the skincare brand Hautschild, developed by German dermatologists, questions this common skincare wisdom that has become prevalent in Japan.
This time, I interviewed Martin Albrecht, the developer and dermatologist at Hautschild, and the brand representative Sayaka Jahnke. They elaborated on the correct concept of moisturizing and the patented cream formulation that mimics the skin's lamellar structure.
Do They Not Use Toner in Germany? A Wake-Up Call on Japan's Toner Myth
Hautschild does not include toner and advocates applying moisturizing cream directly on freshly cleansed skin. Could you explain why you do not recommend toner?
JahnkeIn Japan, the idea that skin is hydrated with toner and then sealed with cream has become ingrained, right?
But think about it. If that were true, after taking a bath, your entire body should be filled with moisture.
In reality, the skin is not designed that simply.
The skin is the body's largest organ, serving to protect it from external factors. It has a sebum layer that repels moisture. If you look at a child's skin, you can see it repels water when showered.
If the skin were designed to absorb moisture and various components internally, it would also take in harmful substances.
The skin has a barrier function, but it is generally believed that it does not have the ability to selectively let in or exclude components.
AlbrechtThe recommendation for using toner dates back to the era when people started washing their faces with soap every day.
A healthy skin pH is mildly acidic, around pH 4.5 to 6.0, but skin washed with soap tends to become alkaline.
It was thought that using toner after washing would help physically return the skin's pH to the optimal mildly acidic level.
Originally, toner was not used for moisturizing purposes but was recommended to normalize the skin's pH.
Furthermore, the moisture contained in toner cannot bind to the moisture in the skin barrier and evaporates from the skin's surface, which is why we believe toner lacks moisturizing effects.
Currently, in Germany, very few people wash their skin with soap.
Most people wash their skin with lukewarm water or mild acidic cleansers, preventing alkalinity after washing, so there is no reason to use toner.
JahnkeIndeed, in Germany, there is not much practice of using toner for hydration, although it seems there are many cleansing toners used to remove dirt.
Compared to Japan, fewer people do full makeup every day in Germany, which might be why many do not need strong cleansing products.
I personally have a habit of wearing makeup and believe many of our Japanese customers need cleansing, so Hautschild offers a mildly acidic cleansing product called "Lamella Defense Cleansing Milk."
We focus on not over-washing and use cleansing ingredients that can help maintain the barrier function. It is a gentle milk-type cleanser.
Hautschild's Proposed Correct Moisturizing Method with Lamellar Structure
Hautschild's moisturizing cream is meant to be used immediately after washing the face, but unlike typical all-in-one products, the cream has a structure that is remarkably similar to the skin's natural intercellular lipids' lamellar structure.
AlbrechtYes. The stratum corneum of the skin is arranged like bricks, and what connects these stratum corneum cells is the intercellular lipids.
These intercellular lipids fill the gaps between stratum corneum cells, protecting the skin from external factors while preventing moisture evaporation and maintaining hydration.
The intercellular lipids are organized in a layered structure with oil layers like ceramides and water layers, which is referred to as lamellar structure.
Hautschild's developed OLT formulation recreates the skin's lamellar structure without using emulsifiers and has obtained technology patents in Germany and Japan.
JahnkeThe Hautschild cream has a structure identical to the intercellular lipids naturally present in the skin, creating a pseudo-stratum corneum on the skin that supports moisture retention and barrier function. It is also characterized by a feel that blends seamlessly into your skin.
Our bodies are made up of about 60% water. Since there should be adequate hydration within the body, it's essential to prevent moisture loss. The allure of Hautschild's cream lies in its ability to encapsulate this lamellar structure.
Effectiveness as the Top Priority in Development: A Relief for Those with Skin Concerns
For users, the inclusion of trending anti-aging ingredients like retinol and niacinamide is certainly appealing. Among the many anti-aging components, could you share why Hautschild selected these particular ingredients?
AlbrechtWhat I value most is the effectiveness the cream provides.
While it's true that retinol and niacinamide are trendy beauty ingredients, my choice to use these ingredients wasn't based on their popularity.
Naturally, I undertook extensive research and read numerous papers beforehand.
Both retinol and niacinamide have long histories as effective beauty ingredients with remarkable benefits.
Additionally, I studied the combinations and ratios with other ingredients to ensure they achieve maximum effectiveness.
JahnkeRetinol is known to be unstable, making it challenging to deliver it to the skin effectively.
Hautschild has formulated a product that users can comfortably use, even those who are sensitive to retinol, after careful consideration of its effectiveness by Martin.
I've heard that Hautschild was born from around 30 years of research. Could you tell us the catalyst behind the development of the OLT formula cream?
AlbrechtI've studied dermatology since my university days. Personal experiences with family members suffering from sun allergies and acquaintances with atopic conditions inspired me to engage in the development of medical ointments.
I conducted over 60 trials for the development of the OLT formula and more than 15 for the "EQ Cream." My objective has always been to align theory with efficacy. All the products developed so far have achieved this goal.
JahnkeThe inception of Hautschild began when I met Martin through my husband, who was associated with a pharmaceutical company.
At that time, I was struggling with skin issues due to living in a highly polluted area, but improvements were seen with the cream Martin made. I received high praise from friends who visited, and wanting to help more people, I decided to launch the brand.
Martin is a leading figure in European dermatology research, co-authoring papers with professors from Charité – Universitätsmedizin Berlin and participating as a panelist at the European Society of Dermatology Research. I felt attracted to his solid expertise and uncompromising development approach, entrusting him with the entire product development process.
Are there differences or commonalities in skin type and environment between Germany and Japan?
AlbrechtSeveral documents indicate that Japanese skin barrier functions are nearly identical to those of Western skin.
While there is a tendency to be more sensitive to lactic acid, there are no differences in the composition of the skin barrier itself.
Biologically, the skin structure is the same regardless of gender or race, but we strive to create cream formulations that do not include skin-irritating ingredients.
While Hautschild has slightly different formulations for Asian individuals, this is not due to differences in skin barriers, but rather to accommodate factors like local temperature and humidity.
JahnkeUnlike Japan, which is marketing beauty creams, the best-selling products in Europe are the dermatological creams classified as quasi-drugs.
In Europe, these creams are frequently repurchased by individuals with more serious skin concerns, but in Japan, many have commented: "I had struggled to find something that didn’t sting, but this works wonders!" and "I'm thrilled to be able to tackle anti-aging despite my sensitive skin!" showcasing their affection for it from those with sensitive skin or seeking anti-aging solutions.
Could you share your vision for the brand's future?
JahnkeHautschild offers scientifically ideal and correct skin care for consumers who are easily swayed by various information and images.
We do not pursue trendsetting, so new products will not be released continuously.
The current lineup reflects the best formulations Martin has reached, and I genuinely believe it is optimal. I encourage everyone to try Hautschild and experience the OLT formulation firsthand.
Not driven by marketing but focused on dermatology, Hautschild extensively pursues efficacy. This may be the ultimate destination for individuals lost in skincare.
PROFILE
Martin Albrecht
Hautschild Product Developer
German Dermatologist
PROFILE
Sayaka Jahnke
CEO of GST Japan Inc.
Representative of Hautschild
Text by Rie Sugita（Beautician / Writer）
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