Taking on the Challenge of "Quasi-Drugs" with 99% Natural Ingredients! What’s the Real Deal with John Masters Organics’ Medicated Hair Growth Serum?

This summer, the New York-based organic brand John Masters Organics unveiled its first-ever "quasi-drug" hair growth serum, the Medicated Hair Growth Essence.

But why create a Quasi-Drugs? We sat down with Yukari Kojima, a product developer at John Masters Organics Group, to get the inside scoop.

The Root of Modern Hair Thinning: A Disrupted Hair Growth Cycle

So, what was the inspiration behind developing a medicated hair growth serum in the first place?

"After digging into the issue of hair thinning, a major concern for many people today, we discovered that it's often linked to a disrupted hair growth cycle. Factors like stress, lack of sleep, aging, hormonal imbalances, scalp buildup, and poor circulation can all throw this cycle out of whack, leading to hair loss, finer strands, and a lack of volume."

The "hair growth cycle" is the crucial element here.

Over a roughly six-year period, your hair cycles through three phases: anagen (growth), catagen (transition), and telogen (resting), before shedding and starting anew. When this cycle is disrupted—for instance, if the growth phase becomes shorter—it can lead to thinning and hair loss.

"While many different things can disrupt the hair growth cycle, the target for treatment remains the same. We decided to develop ingredients that would promote a healthy hair cycle and scalp environment."

A "Quasi-Drugs" is a product category defined by Japanese law (the PMD Act, formerly the Pharmaceutical Affairs Law). It refers to products containing ingredients with mild effects on the human body, intended for prevention and hygiene. While they require approval from the Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare for their ingredients and claims, this classification allows brands to advertise their active ingredients and proven effects.

The approval process for quasi-drugs in Japan is incredibly rigorous. An even bigger hurdle, Kojima says, was the limited number of organic ingredients permitted for use in hair growth treatments in Japan.

"There are about 60 active ingredients approved for hair growth, and we chose only those with solid scientific evidence. If you only use a few common ones, your product can end up looking a lot like everyone else's. We differentiated ourselves by focusing on a unique combination of ingredients."

She adds that this combination requires a great deal of expertise and is where a brand's unique identity really shines through.

Three Plant-Derived Ingredients to Stimulate Hair Growth

"Our formula blends naturally derived components with approved quasi-drug active ingredients. Carrot extract from Panax ginseng (Korean ginseng), Stephania cepharantha alkaloid from a plant known in Eastern medicine, and dipotassium glycyrrhizate from licorice work together to prevent thinning and hair loss while promoting new growth. This creates a healthy scalp environment where hair can thrive."

Upcycled Apples and Heritage Burdock Root to Condition the Scalp

During the development phase, the team focused on two key ingredients: thinned apple extract and Udagane burdock extract.

Thinned apples are the small, immature fruits that are removed from trees during the growing process to allow the remaining apples to grow larger and higher in quality.

"By using these apples that would otherwise be thrown away, we are also making effective use of resources."

Meanwhile, Uda-kin gobo is a traditional variety of burdock root cultivated in the Uda region of Nara Prefecture.

This burdock root is a staple in the local diet, and the region is said to be home to many long-living people with beautiful skin, making it a vegetable that has recently been getting a lot of buzz.

"Its extract contains inulin to help moisturize the scalp and chlorogenic acid for its antioxidant effects. It also promotes the production of type 17 collagen, a substance that diminishes with age.

What's more, this extract works on the bulge region within the hair follicle—often called the 'command center' for hair growth—to help regulate the dormant state of hair follicle stem cells. This action creates an environment that brings volume to hair in its resting phase."

The formula is also blended with organic beautifying ingredients like camellia oil, calendula extract, gentian extract, fermented soy milk, seaweed extract, and aloe extract.

"Organic plant extracts like aloe and calendula moisturize and soften the scalp, while camellia oil and shea butter form a protective moisture veil. By creating a healthy scalp environment, we nurture the fertile ground needed for healthy hair to thrive."

A cornerstone of their philosophy is the refusal to use ingredients that are a cause for concern for the hair and scalp.

"We don't use parabens, mineral oil, petroleum-based surfactants, synthetic fragrances, synthetic dyes, silicones, sulfates, UV absorbers, or chelating agents. With gentleness on the skin and scalp as our top priority, the formula is designed to be safe even for those with sensitive skin."

The Many Benefits of the Rollerball Applicator

When you try it, you’ll find it’s a roll-on applicator with a rollerball tip. The cool touch of the metal on the scalp feels pleasant, and the mess-free application is a huge plus.

"It doesn't spill, so there's no waste. Plus, the airless container with the rollerball helps keep the product fresh for longer."

The texture is light and silky, absorbing easily into the hair and scalp without feeling heavy or sticky. The subtly sweet, apple-like scent is also striking.

"We've blended natural essential oils of Roman chamomile, bergamot, and palmarosa. The warm, herbal aroma will refresh your senses."

In the two-plus months since its release, buzz has been building in the media and on social media, and sales are reportedly booming.

"It's popular across all genders, with a large user base in their 30s. We've been getting great feedback on its usability, like how easy it is to apply to the hairline, and we're feeling very positive about the product.

We believe that when plant-derived ingredients are carefully selected and properly formulated, they hold a powerful and reliable ability to address our concerns. The Medicated Hair Growth Essence, which combines the power of nature with the trust of a quasi-drug, is a product that truly embodies this belief."

John Masters Organics has taken on the challenge of delivering a groundbreaking concept: a "99% naturally derived quasi-drug." This hair growth serum looks set to be a major step forward, paving the way for the future of organic hair care.