Applying Vernix, the Substance that Protects Babies, to Adult Skin? KANEBO's Frontier in Dryness Care

From fall to winter, many people deal with dry skin. KANEBO, from the venerable cosmetics company Kanebo Cosmetics, is tackling this widespread skin woe with research on vernix—a discovery found in the process of human evolution.

The secret was found in "vernix caseosa," the substance that protects babies from dryness in the womb. Kanebo Cosmetics began researching this mysterious substance in 1994. This September, its prestige brand KANEBO launched renewed versions of its creams inspired by vernix: the "KANEBO CREAM IN DAY II" and the "KANEBO CREAM IN NIGHT II."

We sat down with the brand's PR representative, Yuki Hoshino, and beauty expert, Midori Hirafuji. We asked them about the background of the vernix research, its surprising power, and the technology and passion infused into the renewed popular creams.

Kanebo Cosmetics kicked off its research on vernix not just to find fresh solutions for the common problem of dry skin, but also thanks to a researcher who happened to read a newspaper column by an obstetrician.

Vernix is a creamy, lipid-based substance created in the amniotic fluid that protects a baby's skin. Hoshino breaks down its role:

"The job of vernix is to stop a baby's skin from getting waterlogged in the amniotic fluid and to shield their immature skin from the dramatic environmental shift to the dry atmosphere at birth. You could say that when a baby is born, they have to adapt to a change as dramatic as life evolving from the sea to land, and they do it in just a few days. Vernix is said to exist to protect a baby's immature skin from this drastic environmental change, and we believe it has an incredibly high barrier function to protect against dryness. That's why we see vernix as humanity's very first form of skincare and have kept up our research."

In collaboration with a university hospital, Kanebo Cosmetics gathered vernix from 20 newborns using gauze and analyzed it, diving deep into the differences between vernix and adult sebum. The results showed that the makeup of vernix is entirely different from adult sebum.

Further studies also revealed that a lab-created "pseudo-vermix" has moisture retention (the ability to hold moisture) and water-holding capacity (the ability to embrace water) that is about three times that of lab-created "pseudo-sebum," showing off its seriously powerful moisturizing abilities. This proved its impressive ability to lock in moisture, holding a stable amount with almost no loss, even when humidity levels swing high or low.

This vernix is what shields a baby's skin—which is only about half as thick as an adult's and has a weaker barrier—from these intense environmental shifts.

Unlike adult sebum, vernix is packed with cholesterol esters and ceramides. Cholesterol esters, in particular, weren't even available as a cosmetic ingredient when the research kicked off, so Kanebo saw huge potential in developing them.

Kanebo Cosmetics zeroed in on cholesterol esters, a key component of vernix, and successfully turned this crucial ingredient into a cosmetic raw material through a joint effort with a supplier.

But the cholesterol ester they developed was a super sticky substance. It was a massive challenge to both replicate the powerful functions of vernix and create a comfortable, non-tacky texture for a cosmetic product.

"It was tough to formulate into cosmetics, and it took many more years to develop a formula that was stable and got rid of that signature stickiness. But we were convinced it would become one of our flagship formulas, so we poured our efforts into continuing the research and development," says Hoshino.

In 1997, they finally succeeded in creating a cosmetic that mimics the powerful barrier function of vernix. And the research has never stopped.

Kanebo Cosmetics has been pioneering research into vernix, the waxy coating on a newborn's skin, successfully developing cosmetics that mimic its protective functions. This September, the brand "KANEBO" unveiled a new cream formulated with TAISHI™ Complex, a proprietary ingredient that emulates the properties of vernix.

The line includes two products: "Cream In Day II" and "Cream In Night II." While the core vernix-mimicking ingredient is the same in both, each formula is optimized for the unique skin environments of morning and night. This updated version not only includes the pseudo-vermix ingredient but also active ingredients that classify it as a quasi-drug in Japan.

Hirafuji shared some insights on how to use them effectively.

"Your environment and skin condition are completely different in the morning versus at night. In the morning, our skin often looks puffy due to reduced blood flow. It's crucial to awaken the skin and boost circulation. During the day, our skin gradually dries out from air conditioning and other environmental factors, making thorough moisturization essential.

At night, your skin loses more moisture while you sleep, leading to dryness. Since you can't just wake up for a midnight skincare session, we recommend a more intensive and deliberate moisturizing routine in the evening compared to the morning."

The morning cream, "Cream In Day II," is engineered to shield your skin from daytime aggressors. Its UV protection has been upgraded from SPF 20 to SPF 30, and it multitasks by providing skincare benefits while preventing dryness, sun damage, and makeup from breaking down. It’s also sebum-resistant, ensuring a smooth, long-lasting makeup application no matter what type of foundation you use.

This morning cream features the TAISHI™ Complex to protect skin from harsh, dry conditions, keeping it moisturized and firm until evening. It also uses an innovative technology that forms a flexible, elastic veil on the skin, moving with your facial expressions throughout the day. Thanks to the double-power of active ingredients nicotinamide and dipotassium glycyrrhizate, it also helps prevent skin roughness and acne.

Meanwhile, the nighttime "Cream In Night II" was developed with a focus on delivering noticeable results and a revitalized feel by the next morning. It's designed to deeply deliver ingredients to skin prone to overnight dryness, locking in moisture until you wake up.

We also recommend using it as an "overnight mask" by applying a generous layer before bed. Plus, its niacinamide content helps improve the appearance of wrinkles. It also works to suppress melanin production, preventing dark spots and freckles, and is effective against skin roughness. The night cream clings to the skin, which is prone to moisture loss overnight, continuously wrapping it in a deep layer of hydration.

Hirafuji emphasized that using the day and night creams together provides the skin with 24-hour care. For those aiming for firm, supple skin, she highly recommends using them as a pair.

"KANEBO"'s research into vernix will continue. The brand plans to launch a new facial lotion in spring 2026 based on their latest vernix research, so it looks like we'll soon be able to experience the power of vernix across a wider range of products. We're excited to see what new discoveries and products emerge from their ongoing work.