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So, Which Face Wash Should You Choose? Biore Experts Explain the Role of Foam and the Latest Innovations in Pore Care
"Foam cleansers are bad for your skin." "No, the more lather, the better." With so much conflicting information about face washing, it’s no wonder many of us are left wondering what to believe.
That's why we sat down with Kao's Biore brand, which offers a diverse lineup of cleansers including foams, gels, and pastes. We spoke with developers Wataru Matsuda and Yusuke Sumi, who have worked on numerous foam cleansers, to get their expert take on the role of foam and how to choose the perfect product for your skin concerns.
Is Foam Really Necessary for Cleansing? Developers Explain Its Two Key Roles

Biore offers a diverse lineup of cleansers, from "The Face Foaming Facial Wash" to "At-Home Esthetic Massage Gel Cleanser." With products that don't require lathering also gaining popularity, is foam truly necessary for cleansing?
Matsuda, a developer for Biore's face washes, is here to answer this fundamental question. As an expert who has worked on numerous foaming and lathering cleansers, he breaks down the role of foam in our skincare routine.
"A fine, dense foam is highly effective in two key ways: removing impurities and reducing stress on the skin," explains Matsuda.
The first role of foam is to attract dirt and minimize friction.
"When a fine foam touches the skin, it naturally draws out oily impurities like sebum. When you lather up properly, the foam lifts away dirt, allowing you to cleanse gently yet thoroughly with minimal friction—no harsh scrubbing required."
But foam has another crucial role that isn't as widely known, backed by an interesting study from Kao.
"We conducted an experiment using the same cleanser but varied the lathering time to create three different 'foam qualities.' After applying each foam to the skin and rinsing, we found that the well-lathered one left significantly less cleansing agent (surfactant) residue behind. Needless to say, leaving fewer cleansing ingredients on your skin helps keep it in a healthier condition."
Reducing friction and ensuring no unnecessary ingredients are left behind—based on these two functions, Matsuda draws a clear conclusion about foam.
"You could say that the finer and denser the foam, the better it is for your skin. Biore's self-foaming cleansers are designed to provide this ideal foam experience for everyone, regardless of their lathering skills.
Our popular 'Marshmallow Whip' delivers a perfect foam with a single pump and is designed to protect skin from potential damage during washing. Then there's the 'The Face' series, which produces a foam 1.5 times richer. This extra volume provides an even thicker cushion between your fingers and your skin, resulting in an exceptionally gentle cleanse. I highly recommend it for anyone concerned about putting stress on their skin."
Should You Only Use Water to Wash Your Face in the Morning? The Best a.m. Routine
When it comes to the morning cleanse, some people advocate for using just water or lukewarm water. But does your skin actually get dirty enough overnight to need a cleanser?"Even with a thorough nighttime routine, sebum produced while you sleep builds up on your skin's surface by morning. If you only wash with water, that sebum can be left behind, which is why many people feel their skin isn't truly clean or feels a bit greasy.
In fact, our experiments confirm that a water-only rinse leaves a significant amount of sebum behind," says Matsuda.
So, what's the best approach? Matsuda explains that there's no single right answer; it's crucial to make a decision based on your skin type and how your skin feels that day.

"If you're dealing with oily skin in the morning, we recommend using a cleanser to properly remove excess sebum. For those short on time, a pump-dispensed foam cleanser that requires no lathering is a convenient option. Feel free to use different products depending on your skin concerns and lifestyle."
Kao's "Keratin Plug Breakdown Cleansing Technology" Goes Viral! The Market Focus Shifts to "Pore Care"
How have trends in the facial cleanser market changed over time? Washimi from the marketing team breaks down everything from shifting attitudes toward cleansing to the latest developments."In the past, the mainstream method was to lather a paste-type cleanser in your own palms. But around 2000, lathering nets became widespread, and the idea of 'washing with a dense foam' became the norm. However, the time and effort required for lathering posed a challenge, which led to the growing popularity of cleansers that dispense as foam."
"And more recently, 'pore care' has taken center stage in the facial cleanser market. Pore care products, which accounted for 20% of the market in 2017, have grown to 38% by 2024 (DATA: SRI+ Self-Cleansing Market). One contributing factor is likely the increased time people spent focusing on their skin during the COVID-19 pandemic."
Keratin plugs, the underlying cause of pore problems, are often mistaken for clogged sebum, but they are actually composed mostly of protein. This is the very fact that Kao's proprietary "Keratin Plug Breakdown Cleansing Technology" technology targets.

"At Biore, we don't believe you should have to choose between solving pore problems and being gentle on your skin. This technology employs a non-surfactant cleansing ingredient (tromethamine) that works on both protein and sebum—the main components of keratin plugs—breaking them down gently without stressing the skin."
"This technology recently gained widespread attention after being featured on X, leading to a significant surge in sales for relevant products like \"The Face Smooth Clear\" and \"At-Home Esthetic Gel Cleanser,\" says Washimi."
Kao's years of pore research have masterfully responded to the modern demand for a gentle, no-scrub solution that still delivers real results. "The Face Smooth Clear" combines this "Keratin Plug Breakdown Cleansing Technology" with Biore's richest-ever fresh cream-like foam, making it the ultimate cutting-edge pore care cleanser.
Achieve Your Ideal Cleanse with "The Face"—A Lineup Tailored to Your Skin Concerns

The "The Face Foaming Facial Wash" series, which has been buzzing on social media, was launched in 2022 to close the gap between the ideal cleanse people want and the reality they experience. The incredible passion of its development team was the driving force behind its creation.
"We know people want to avoid friction, but they often end up scrubbing their face without realizing it. They want to keep their skin hydrated but also crave that clean, refreshed feeling post-wash. To address these desires, we aimed to create a product that cleanses thoroughly without stressing the skin. We decided to develop five different types to cater to our customers' various skin concerns and types," explains Washimi.
That passion resulted in five unique formulas designed for individual skin needs, from "Deep Moist" for dry skin and "The Face Smooth Clear" for pore concerns, to the medicated "Acne Care formula" for preventing acne. Matsuda elaborates on the development challenges.
"We were particularly meticulous about the volume of foam. It took a lot of trial and error, from the product's formulation to the container's design, to create a dense foam 1.5 times richer than \"Marshmallow Whip\" that could be dispensed with a single pump."
Among the five types, the development of "The Face Smooth Clear", which features Kao's proprietary technology, proved to be exceptionally difficult. Matsuda from the development team also shared this unique anecdote.

"Incorporating the \"Keratin Plug Breakdown Cleansing Technology\" into the thin, watery liquid required for a foaming pump-type cleanser was extremely difficult, which is why its release was delayed by a year compared to the other types."
"During development, every time I used a prototype, my pores felt so clean that I actually cleared out all my own keratin plugs and couldn’t continue testing its efficacy. It was a welcome surprise, to say the least (laughs)."
How to Find the Right Facial Cleanser for You
So, when it comes down to it, how should we choose a daily facial cleanser? Matsuda offered this final piece of advice."Washing your face with a cleanser is an essential skincare step for maintaining healthy, beautiful skin. For starters, try a standard foaming product. Among those, the pump-dispensed foam types are an easy habit to maintain. It's also a good idea to try products with benefits you find appealing or textures you find pleasant. I also recommend alternating cleansers depending on your skin's condition or even your mood that day," says Matsuda.
Biore sees skin as a vital part of human connection and believes that by helping people care for their skin, it can brighten both individuals and society as a whole. This heartfelt philosophy lies at the core of Biore's product development. We're excited to see how they continue to evolve to meet our diverse range of skin concerns.
PROFILE

Wataru Matsuda
Kao Corporation, Skincare Research Laboratories
PROFILE

Yusuke Sumi
Kao Corporation, Skincare Business Division
Text by Rie Tsugita (Beauty Expert / Writer)



