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Kérastase Unveils New Series: Première! Exploring "Japanese-Born Advanced Technology" in Depth
Since its debut in Japan in 1990, Kérastase has gathered support from many. Its products are recognized not just by regular consumers, but also by professionals such as hairdressers and beauty experts.
Kérastase has now launched a new series called "Première," which incorporates advanced technology developed in a Japanese lab.
We spoke with Yukari Sonobe, in charge of product marketing along with Mirai Nishiyama and Isaac Eng Ting Lee from the development and research teams, about the brand's origins and the genesis of the Première series.
PROFILE
Yukari Sonobe
Kérastase Headquarters Group Product Manager
PROFILE
Mirai Nishiyama
PhD
Research & Innovation Center
Hair Development Laboratory
Scientific Communication
Manager
PROFILE
Isaac Eng Ting Lee
L'Oréal Research & Innovation Center
Hair Development Laboratory
Hair Care & Manageability
Lab Manager
Research Facilities with Diverse Strengths Established Worldwide
First, could you tell us about the brand's history?
SonobeKerastase was founded in Paris in 1964, marking its 60th anniversary this year. In the 1960s, salons were mainly for perms and styling. During this era, Kérastase promoted hair care based on the philosophy that "beautiful hair arises from a healthy scalp."
Back then, home hair care was just about washing hair for hygiene. Kérastase advocated the importance of taking care of hair at home to enhance salon esthetics and maintain beauty, nurturing the concept of "home esthetics."
To keep hair beautiful for a long time, taking care of not just the hair but also the scalp, the foundation, is essential. Kérastase develops products with the belief that "only a healthy scalp can produce beautiful hair."
What does your company value in product development?
SonobeAt Kérastase, we uphold "Care for hair," "Care for people," and "Care for the planet." We've always prioritized developing products suited to all hair types and concerns, keeping customer needs and environmental impact in mind.
The brand message "You dare we care" reflects our commitment to supporting hair care, allowing customers to confidently enjoy any hairstyle or color.
When launching new products, we conduct consumer research and analyze trends to offer innovative hair care solutions that only a professional brand can provide.
For example, many people have always been concerned about damaged hair, but there's a growing demand for care tailored to the extent of damage. Additionally, more young people are worried about hair loss.
To address such diverse hair concerns, we leverage proprietary technology developed in our laboratories to advance product development.
We've heard you have research facilities around the world.
NishiyamaApart from the headquarters in France, we have six regional hubs (in the USA, Brazil, South Africa, India, China, and Japan) and 20 research centers.
Because beauty practices and hair characteristics vary by region, we have numerous research sites worldwide to develop products that meet local needs.
Our laboratories are divided into teams with various roles, such as capturing consumer needs, specializing in material development, and analyzing active functions in collaboration with external research institutes.
These teams work closely to create outstanding technology, reviewed on a global scale, and made accessible to customers worldwide.
LeeEach research laboratory has its area of expertise. In Japan, research is very active in hair's internal repair, while in Brazil and South Africa, the research focuses on curl patterns (hair waves).
Simultaneous research across various fields allows the sharing of knowledge among the research institutes, which is a distinct advantage. For example, when perms became trendy in Japan, the knowledge and technologies developed in Brazil and South Africa can be utilized in product development.
Japan-born Advanced Technology Featured in "Première"
This year, the new series "Première" was launched.
NishiyamaThe "Première" series benefits from Japan's expertise in internal repair. For research and development, we returned to the basics, asking "What is true internal repair?" and "How can we achieve the 'true hair strength' that comes from undamaged hair interiors?"
Through the research process, we identified that the key lies in calcium and other metal ions. When hair is damaged, it becomes porous (full of countless tiny holes). The water we use daily contains a small amount of calcium, and when hair becomes porous, calcium accumulates, obstructing the repair process.
This discovery led to the development of the advanced "Pair Repair Technology," which is featured in "Première."
LeeAfter examining various formulas and their combinations, it was found that the combination of citric acid and glycine efficiently removes calcium and increases hair strength. Pair Repair Technology was born based on this insight.
Nishiyama"Première" incorporates special care "pretreatment" before shampooing, targeting calcium in the hair interior and allowing care ingredients to penetrate deeply.
By using the entire product line, the effectiveness of each care step is enhanced, so I highly recommend using the line.
Tell us about the key concerns during the development of "Première."
NishiyamaWe pursued how "Pair Repair Technology" impacts the internal structure of the hair and applied this in the development. During the research, we collaborated with researchers from the international research facility "SPring-8," analyzing how the hair's internal structure was strengthened on a microscopic level.
LeeOur company has traditionally valued science, and we have inherited a strong commitment to serious research. In this study, we pursued effectiveness through collaboration with various research institutions, in addition to "SPring-8."
By gaining a deeper understanding of the hair's internal repair mechanisms, we developed a product that truly delivers results for those who use it.
I heard it took 10 years to develop "Pair Repair Technology."
LeeWe always strive to provide what best suits consumers while considering safety. Therefore, we take a lot of time on each step up to the final product, especially on the formulation, which takes considerable time.
Even after the product is complete, it is not immediately released to the market. Verification through consumer evaluations in various countries and safety and stability checks can take about 1.5 to 2 years.
This careful and thorough inspection ensures that when our product hits the market, we are confident in sending it out.
Nishiyama"Première" in particular is a product that we painstakingly worked on to ensure its effectiveness, conducting more tests than ever before.
Please tell us about the challenges you faced during development.
LeeIt was challenging during online meetings with researchers worldwide to convey the delicate texture, which Japanese customers favor (referred to as "natural hair feel").
The concept of "treatment" originated in Japan and is a new notion overseas. In Japan, "treatment" encompasses a process from internal repair to external coating of hair, not merely surface coating—this uniqueness presented a challenge.
NishiyamaWe used various expressions like "the inherent strength of healthy hair," yet words seemed insufficient to convey it. We conducted workshops in the Japanese laboratory for hands-on experience, helping them feel the appreciation of natural hair texture.
Are there any areas you pay careful attention to outside of technology?
SonobeFragrance is a hallmark of Kérastase, and we pay special attention to it. Each product line adopts scents created by renowned perfumers to express the world of each product.
The world depicted by Première is the vibrant Italian port town "Portofino." It's crafted with the image of city dwellers enjoying a leisurely time at a resort on their days off.
The sophisticated product packaging also embodies Kérastase's distinctive design. From a sustainability perspective, we use recycled plastics and glass.
How have customers responded after using Première?
SonobeWe've received an overwhelming number of positive comments from customers and salon stylists. They say things like "My hair texture changed before and after use," "It made my hair smooth without feeling heavy," and "The fragrance is elegant."
Regarding pre-treatment, I was worried if people would try it since it's a new habit. However, many showed interest. Renowned beauty experts have also highlighted it as a "new step in hair care," which has generated significant buzz.
Looking forward, we aim to nurture the pre-treatment item "Damage Repair Concentre" into a star product of Kérastase.
NishiyamaWhen we conducted research on internal repair, I was also concerned about whether the bare hair feel preferred in Japan would be accepted by people in other countries. However, when focusing on "properly repairing the interior of the hair," it surprisingly became widely used by people worldwide, regardless of hair type.
I think this serves as an example of creating a superior product that originated from local Japanese research and has global appeal.
Lastly, please share a message for the brand's fans.
SonobeSince the brand's inception, we have consistently provided the ultimate luxury experience with optimal care, integrating advanced technology supported by high skills from hairdressers worldwide.
Moving forward, we will continue to collaborate with professional hairdressers to enhance product development and services, aiming to realize each customer's beauty.
Our salons also offer "Diagnosis Counseling," where we propose suitable products based on an individual's scalp and hair conditions. During counseling, the scalp and hair are photographed with a dedicated camera and displayed on a smartphone or tablet for review by both the hairdresser and customer.
Kérastase offers around 150 products, so we suggest care products tailored to hair conditions and concerns during treatment and introduce recommended home care. If you have hair care issues, we would be delighted for you to visit a Kérastase salon.
Text by Rika Okuyama
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