Optimizing Formulas in 1% Increments! KOSÉ's Challenge: "Highly Personalized Beauty" Using iPS Cells

The "mini-heart made from iPS cells" is a hot topic for the Expo 2025 Osaka, Kansai. Spearheading the practical application of these iPS cells in the beauty industry is KOSÉ through its latest pilot program. We sat down with Hiroki Ohnari, the project lead at KOSÉ, to discuss the development of their groundbreaking concept, "highly personalized beauty products"—a system that creates beauty ingredients from your own cells and tailors the formula in 1% increments to match your skin's needs.

“Personalized Beauty Products” Using Your Own iPS Cells

Last year, you announced technical partnerships with companies from other industries and with medical institutions to develop “personalized beauty products” using iPS cells.

That's right. At KOSÉ, we've developed a vast range of cosmetic products. This project was born from our pursuit of what it means to create a product that is truly “a perfect match for each customer.” It also came from brainstorming new ways to create value, especially in the wellness space.

What kind of service does this involve, specifically?

We generate iPS cells from the customer's own cells and then extract beauty ingredients derived from them. This is then combined with KOSÉ's cosmetic technology, and the final “beauty product” is prepared and provided at a medical institution.

Is it now possible for individuals to have their own iPS cells created?

Due to technological advancements, iPS cells, which used to cost hundreds of millions of yen to create, can now be produced for several million yen. iPS cell banking services for individuals are also starting to emerge. However, creating and culturing iPS cells requires advanced technology, which is why we've partnered with highly specialized companies for this part of the process.

This seems completely different from typical cosmetics development, especially with the collaboration with medical institutions.

It's certainly a new challenge for our business. On the other hand, KOSÉ has been conducting joint research with the Center for iPS Cell Research and Application (CiRA) at Kyoto University since 2013. We already have over a decade of experience in skin research using iPS cells.

Unlocking the Skin's Aging Process Through iPS Cell Research

I see, so there's quite a history there. Could you explain again what iPS cells are?

iPS cells are induced pluripotent stem cells, which are created by “reprogramming” differentiated human somatic cells. They can multiply indefinitely and can be differentiated into various organs, such as bone and muscle.

The “beating mini-heart” on display at the Expo 2025 Osaka, Kansai, was also made from iPS cells, correct?

That's right. While iPS cells hold great promise for medical applications like organ regeneration, at KOSÉ, we've been exploring their “potential in the beauty sector” from many different angles. One key area is our research into the skin's aging process.

The skin's aging process…! I'm curious to learn more about that research.

As one example, we took fibroblasts (the cells that produce collagen and keep skin healthy) from the same person at ages 36 and 67, reprogrammed them using iPS cells, and then compared them. We confirmed that regardless of the age of the original cells, the reprogrammed cells showed restored length in their “telomeres,” a key marker of aging. We also discovered an improvement in the function of “mitochondria,” which are responsible for cellular energy production.

So, does this mean cellular rejuvenation is possible, no matter your age?

It's proof of a unique characteristic of iPS cells: 'cellular initialization is possible, regardless of your actual age.' This means iPS cell technology can act like a time machine, turning back the clock to create a large number of cells that are just like those of a newborn, similar in nature to a fertilized egg. However, there are still many hurdles to overcome before this research leads directly to the "rejuvenation of the human body." What’s crucial for us is the wealth of knowledge we’ve gained about iPS cells throughout this research process.

Harnessing the Power of iPS Cell-Derived Extract Through a Key Partnership

So that knowledge is what led to this "personalized beauty products." Could you tell us more about it?

First, the customer visits a medical facility to have their blood drawn. From the somatic cells in that blood sample, a company called iPS-Cell, Inc. creates the iPS cells. They are a company that supplies medical-grade iPS cells to pharmaceutical companies and other organizations worldwide.

Reju, Inc., a group company of I Peace, Inc., is responsible for culturing the completed iPS cells. As the iPS cells multiply, they release a variety of metabolites, including growth factors. The beneficial components from these metabolites are then extracted to create the "iPS cell-derived extract."

So you aren't using the iPS cells themselves?

Correct. We use the components extracted from the culture medium. While similar ingredients are already on the market, Reju meticulously controls the cultivation period and ingredient concentration, using a purification process to create a concentrate of substances beneficial to the skin.

The Ultimate in Personalized Care: Formulations Adjustable Down to 1%

So, this iPS cell-derived extract is combined with KOSÉ's cosmetic technology?

Yes, we employ state-of-the-art cosmetic technologies, including emulsification techniques on par with our most premium product lines. What makes it truly special is that we propose a formulation that is "perfect for that person, at that specific time."

Does that mean the formulation is different every single time?

Customers visit a medical facility every two months for a skin diagnosis. We use a variety of devices to conduct a multifaceted analysis of factors like moisture levels, sagging, and wrinkles. After a final consultation with a doctor, the product is compounded on the spot. The formula can be adjusted in 1% increments, making the number of possible combinations virtually infinite. The iPS cell-derived extract is a personalized ingredient in itself, but we also sought to personalize the formulation.

What is the Future of Beauty Powered by iPS Cells?

So it's "highly personalization" in two senses of the word. What was the biggest challenge you faced?

Out of the many challenges, we put the highest priority on safety. For the creation and cultivation of iPS cells, we partner with a company that maintains strict quality controls. For the finished beauty product, we conduct all the standard cosmetic safety tests, like patch testing. Having a doctor confirm the client's skin condition is another crucial part of our commitment to safety.

It sounds like you have multiple layers of precautions. Safety is obviously critical, but personally, I'm also curious about the "effectiveness."

The service is currently in its first phase of proof-of-concept trials, so it will be a little longer before we can report on the evidence. We hope you'll stay tuned for our findings.

Lastly, could you share the future outlook for your iPS-related business?

First, regarding this particular beauty product, we currently offer it as a serum, but we plan to expand into a variety of other product types in the future. Beyond that, through our iPS cell business as a whole, we aim to contribute to a "longevity society"—helping to create a future where everyone can live healthier, richer lives in this era of the 100-year lifespan. We hope to nurture this into a new service that acts as a bridge between the worlds of beauty and medicine.