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Filled with Respect for the Original! The New Balance "MT580GB2," Custom-Ordered by "mita sneakers," Will Be Released on October 26!

2024.10.24
Launched in 1996 as a trail running pioneer, the New Balance "580" quickly garnered attention on the street scene. Now, mita sneakers has reimagined this legendary model with the release of the "MT580GB2" on October 26. We inquired about how this exclusive model was created and the design concepts from mita sneakers' creative director, Shigeyuki Kunii, through mita sneakers.

This Custom Order Reaffirms Respect for the Original

The "MT580" gained traction in Japan's street scene from the late 90s to early 2000s. Thanks to legendary collaborations, its popularity spread beyond Asia to New Balance's home country, America. Kunii explained why mita sneakers decided to customize the "580" at this time.
Above is the first collaboration of "MT580 HECTIC × mita sneakers," released in December 2000. The calm earth-tone coloring followed the original colors. Below is the 11th collaboration, released in May 2008, featuring an outstanding color combination from the second and third collaborations released in 2001 (Reference product)
"The global focus on the '580' wrapped up in 2023, while focus on Asia continued, but that too is coming to an end. We collaborated with MARQUEEPLAYER for Spring/Summer 2024.
 
"In 2023, we collaborated with Magara’s 'MASTERPIECE SOUND' and YOPPI, or Yoshifumi Egawa’s 'Hombre Niño,' allowing those involved in the 'MT580' to express an ongoing update instead of simply reviving the past.
In April 2016, a collaboration was created to commemorate the 20th anniversary of the "580." The collaboration brought together Masugara, Egawa, and Kunii again. The tricolor featuring lightweight cushioning material 'RevLite' set it apart (Reference product)
"As I pondered what story to tell in the final feature for Fall/Winter 2024, I realized that the phrase 'the original 'MT580' had been on the clearance rack' had created an impression of '580' being unsuccessful every time it was highlighted.
 
"No matter how the world perceives it, we love what we love. Back when we received collaboration offers from 'New Balance,' despite having various options, we passionately chose to collaborate based on our love for the original 'MT580,' regardless of its fame.
On October 7, 2023, the eagerly awaited "MT580 GTX MASTERPIECE SOUND × Hombre Niño × mita sneakers" made its debut. Based on the "950 V2" model, it features a GORE-TEX® upper and has quickly become popular (Reference product)
"I should have explained this more thoroughly, but due to character limitations, it was portrayed that 'the originally discounted '580' became globally popular through collaborations.' It was not that we chose '580' disdainfully; rather, we were captivated by the '580' released as a Japan-modified model, which is where everything began.
 
"That’s why I want to ensure people recognize the merits of the original '580' again. We made this special order to replicate the original colors and details, which serves as the justification for this initiative."
 
This custom order emerged to dispel misunderstandings that unintentionally diminished the reputation of the original '580' and to express renewed respect for it.

An Ambitious Piece Faithfully Reproducing Materials & Volume

This custom-order model is an exclusive piece that faithfully reproduces the original "MT580" while mixing in original colors. Kunii further explained the design aspects.
The "MT580GB2" will be released on October 26. This model achieves a remarkable balance, faithfully replicating the material usage and volume of the original while mixing in the original color scheme. Carefully crafted by mita sneakers, who know "MT580" inside out, this is a heartfelt and ambitious piece priced at 19,800 yen (tax included)
"The more the '580' is focused on, the more it tends to be linked with the collaborations of that time, but the original '580' is truly a rare shoe. I believe we have properly expressed the original 'love' for it.
 
"First, regarding the coloring, the original '580' had models based on brown and green, so this time we mixed those colorings.
"New Balance" retains the archive of the "580." Although the sole has undergone hydrolysis and is now unable to be taken out of the bag, it is clear that it was based on brown and green.
"Additionally, we are recreating the fitting as it was back then. The shoes released in the '90s were from an era when the materials we currently use had not yet been developed. That's why the tongue and lining were stuffed with a lot of padding for support. Today, that volume feels fresh, so we have replicated it.
 
The original shoe adjusted its hold by stuffing the tongue and lining with padding, and this volume is also replicated here. In the special edition of 'MT580', the tongue had woven labels arranged like other models, but this time we have also restored the original rubber parts.
"Moreover, the original featured a round rubber part engraved with the model number arranged on the tongue, so we have recreated that as well."
 
Even at this point, the design conveys enough respect for the original, but that overflowing 'love' does not stop here.

The Close Relationship Between Kunii & "New Balance" Woven through the "MT580"

This special edition was said to be deeply meaningful for Kunii as well. When I asked about the impressive moments during the planning process, Kunii responded:
 
"The individuals from 'New Balance Japan' involved in this project were mostly younger people, including product directors and designers. It was the design team at 'New Balance Japan' who first recognized the additional volume in the lining that I mentioned earlier.
The current "580" features a slim last, but this version adds a bit more volume to the upper, reminiscent of the past. The insole featuring the icon of mita sneakers—a wire mesh graphic—is also noteworthy.
Currently, the "580" has a slightly slimmer last compared to before. I had been fixated on making it rounder like back in the day. However, thanks to the design team's advice about the additional volume in the lining, I was able to see things from a new perspective.
 
This special edition was not created while I reminisced about the past, but it was a profound experience to collaborate with the next generation planning team at "New Balance," who are of a generation that does not know the initial designs.
 
Finally, I asked Kunii about his feelings towards "MT580" and "New Balance."
 
"The reason 'MT580' has maintained its popularity for decades is, in a sense, because 'New Balance Japan' has continued to protect it. It is a natural business flow to capitalize on the success of a collaboration by quickly releasing it in line production once it gains popularity.
 
"However, instead, they have steadfastly preserved the value of '580', and when '580' achieved global deployment in 2008, they featured an advertisement in the American magazine 'COMPLEX' that boldly expressed 'MT580' as 'New Balance from Japan'.
An advertisement for 'MT580' published in the magazine "COMPLEX" (Kunii's private collection).
"I truly appreciate their broad-mindedness and the fact that they offer collaborations at key moments. It is rare for a global brand to maintain such loyalty, and I am sincerely grateful for this relationship."
 
This special edition serves as a culmination of the feelings that Kunii and "New Balance Japan" have towards "MT580." I hope you get your hands on it on October 26.

PROFILE

Shigeyuki Kunii

Serving as the Creative Director at mita sneakers, which proposes a unique sneaker style from Ueno, a downtown area in Tokyo, to the world. He has worked on numerous collaborative and special order models with various brands, showcasing his talents particularly with New Balance-related collaborations. Currently, he is also the external director for the recently opened shop "Herringbone Footwear" in Toranomon Hills. He plays a crucial role in multiple projects, directing from global initiatives to domestic inline directions, making him a key figure in the sneaker industry.

mita sneakers
4-7-8 Ueno, Taito, Tokyo, 2F & 1F Amei Yoko Center Building
TEL: 03-3832-8346
Business Hours
(Weekdays) 11:00 AM - 7:30 PM, (Weekends & Holidays) 10:00 AM - 7:30 PM
https://www.mita-sneakers.co.jp/

Photo by Hiroyuki "Lily" Suzuki (StudioLog)
Text by Yasuyuki Ushijima (NO-TECH)

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