Is 'No Vitamin C in the Morning' a Big Misconception? An Obagi Expert Unlocks the 'True Power' of Pure Vitamin C

Vitamin C has become an essential part of both skincare and wellness routines. Yet, many people might be in the dark about how to use it correctly and what it actually does. Questions like, 'Should I avoid it in the morning?' or 'What's the difference between "pure" and "derivative" forms?' are common.

To get some answers, we sat down with the experts from Obagi, a brand by Rohto Pharmaceutical that's leading the market with its pure vitamin C serums. We delved into everything from the brand's unique core 'SHR Theory' to common questions about vitamin C.

Awakening Your Skin's Natural Power: What is Obagi's Founding 'SHR Theory'?

Since its launch in 2001, Obagi has been a beloved pioneer in vitamin C skincare. The story of its creation is one of meeting the demands of a new era and a fateful encounter with a dermatologist.

“Back in the late 1990s, when the Obagi brand was just starting, there was a growing demand for skincare that delivered immediate, tangible results, especially in Europe and the US. We anticipated that this trend toward what we call \"proactive beauty\" would soon catch on in Japan, and we were looking for a way to create a skincare line that leveraged our unique strengths as a pharmaceutical company.

That's when we met Dr. Obagi, a leading expert in chemical peels based in Los Angeles. His proposed SHR Theory perfectly aligned with our goals, which paved the way for the brand's launch in Japan.

SHR stands for Skin Health Restoration, a revolutionary concept focused on \"restoring the skin’s inherent functions.\"

For example, when the skin's barrier is weakened, conventional care involves 'replenishing' it with ingredients like ceramides. But Dr. Obagi’s approach was to revive the skin’s own ability to generate moisture. It's not just about compensating for what's lacking; it's about applying the right stimulus to awaken dormant cells and fundamentally strengthen the skin.”

Within this SHR Theory, vitamin C plays an exceptionally important role.

"Vitamin C provides the 'appropriate stimulation' needed to activate underperforming cells. This normalizes the skin's turnover cycle and boosts the production of ceramides and collagen. This vitamin C-centric approach, which harnesses the skin's natural potential to achieve a healthy complexion, is the core of Dr. Obagi's 'true skincare' philosophy.

The Obagi brand was born to bring this theory to life for Japanese skin, combining Rohto Pharmaceutical's long-cultivated research capabilities and technological expertise."

Pure? Derivative? Understanding the Types of Vitamin C and How to Choose the Right One

There are many different types of vitamin C. So, what’s the difference between the "pure vitamin C" and "vitamin C derivatives" that Obagi is so passionate about?

"Pure vitamin C is simply vitamin C (ascorbic acid) in its purest, chemically unprocessed form. Its biggest advantage is that it gets to work quickly in the stratum corneum the moment it’s applied to your skin. However, it's also extremely delicate and notoriously unstable. At Obagi, we've successfully stabilized it using our proprietary technology.

On the other hand, vitamin C derivatives are chemically modified to stabilize pure vitamin C and prolong its effectiveness. Some types are designed to have these chemical modifications removed by enzymes present in the skin, gradually converting them into pure vitamin C over time.

First up, water-soluble vitamin C derivatives dissolve easily in water, making them ideal for formulations like toners. Then you have oil-soluble vitamin C derivatives, which dissolve in oil and are often used in creams. They penetrate the stratum corneum more effectively than their water-soluble counterparts and tend to work more slowly.

Finally, there are amphiphilic vitamin C derivatives, which combine the properties of both. They are known for their high permeability and fast-acting effects. You might also come across plant oils that are said to contain vitamin C. However, since many of these also include other compounds like polyphenols, you can expect benefits that go beyond what vitamin C alone provides.

If you really want to experience the full effects of vitamin C, your best bet is to choose a product where pure vitamin C or a vitamin C derivative is listed as a primary ingredient."

The 'No Vitamin C in the Morning' Rule is a Major Myth

We also asked about the truth behind some common rumors about vitamin C.

"The claim that 'applying vitamin C in the morning causes dark spots' is a total misconception. This myth likely started because people confused vitamin C with citrus fruits like lemons, which contain a phototoxic substance called 'psoralen.'

Vitamin C and psoralen are two completely different things. Vitamin C itself does not have phototoxic properties like psoralen. In fact, it's quite the opposite—vitamin C helps protect the skin from UV damage. We even have data showing that incorporating it into your morning skincare routine can reduce cell damage. Ideally, you should be using vitamin C consistently every day, preferably twice a day in the morning and at night."

Behind Obagi's success in stabilizing pure Vitamin C and achieving high concentrations lies technology unique to a pharmaceutical company.

"As a pharmaceutical company, we leveraged our extensive research expertise and applied the 'drug delivery system'—which delivers medication to targeted areas of the body—to Obagi, successfully delivering Vitamin C to where the skin needs it most. While pure Vitamin C is water-soluble, it also breaks down easily. By meticulously fine-tuning the formula to use as little water as possible while still dissolving a high concentration of the vitamin, we were able to achieve both superior stability and tangible results for your skin.

The other ingredients in the formula are inspired by those used in pharmaceuticals. This is because these ingredients have outstanding properties, such as dissolving hard-to-dissolve components, stabilizing volatile ones, and even boosting absorption through the skin. A major advantage is the wealth of accumulated data on their safety. We use this information as a reference, continuously fine-tuning our formulas to maximize their effectiveness."

The Obagi C Serum Series consists of four products: C5 Serum, C10 Serum, C20 Serum, and C25 Serum Neo.The larger the number, the higher the concentration of pure Vitamin C.

"For those trying a pure Vitamin C serum for the first time, those with unpredictable skin, or those looking to refine their skin texture, starting with the 'C5 Serum' is a great choice.

'C10 Serum' is recommended for those who want to refine texture while also tackling the appearance of pores. 'C20 Serum' is for those concerned about pores and roughness who are looking for more dramatic results. 'C25 Serum Neo' tackles signs of aging, such as fine lines caused by dryness and a loss of firmness, in addition to texture and pore concerns, offering a comprehensive approach with the power of pure Vitamin C alone.

Generally, those with dry or easily irritated skin may feel a slight tingling sensation as the 'The Obagi C Serum Series' penetrates the skin, but this is not a concern if it subsides quickly. If the sensation is bothersome, try adjusting your routine by using a smaller amount or applying it over a moisturizer or cream.

However, if redness or inflammation persists, please stop using the product. While there are various reasons this can happen, a strong tingling sensation might suggest an underlying skin problem and a weakened barrier function (the skin's ability to withstand external irritants).

Pure Vitamin C itself is a multi-talented ingredient. Consistency is key when using a pure Vitamin C serum. Find one that feels comfortable for you to use every morning and night."

The market is flooded with countless types of Vitamin C serums. However, the stability of the vitamin is often unknown, and it's possible it may have already degraded before you even use it. We invite you to experience the true power of Vitamin C with the "The Obagi C Serum Series"—a line that achieves high penetration, high concentration, and exceptional stability, all thanks to the unique expertise of a pharmaceutical company.