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Shu Uemura: The Brand that Spread Cleansing Oil in Japan & Continues to Innovate Beauty

2024.12.18
The makeup artist brand "shu uemura," born in Japan, has garnered support worldwide by leveraging the insights of professional makeup artists in its product development.
In Japan, it stands as a pioneering force in the beauty industry, continually engaging in groundbreaking initiatives such as opening open-tester format stores. It is also said that Shu Uemura was the brand that popularized cleansing oil in Japan.
In this article, we spoke with Miki Kusaka and Shiori Maruyama, who are responsible for the brand at Nihon L'Oréal K.K., about the history of the brand and the background of cleansing oil's development.

PROFILE

Miki Kusaka

Nihon L'Oréal K.K. L'Oréal Luxe Division shu uemura Division Marketing Manager

PROFILE

Shiori Maruyama

Nihon L'Oréal K.K. L'Oréal Luxe Division shu uemura Division Product Manager

The Origin of the Brand: A Desire to Convey the Fun of Makeup

Can you tell us about the origins of Shu Uemura?
KusakaShu Uemura was founded in 1967 by hair and makeup artist Shu Uemura.
In his early 20s, Uemura battled tuberculosis for about five years. At that time, it was considered a serious illness, leading him to think, "I might have a short life, so I should do what I want to do."
Worried about his physical strength, he gave up his initial ambition to become an actor and began to explore forms of self-expression that required less physical exertion, leading to his interest in art and beauty.
Driven by a strong desire to try things that no one else was attempting, he enrolled as the only male student in a beauty school, which was then largely thought of as a female domain. Although the situation could have been perceived as adversity, he believed, "It is precisely because I will carve out a path in beauty that I can aim for new heights."
After graduation, he moved to the United States and was involved in makeup for Hollywood films, where he encountered colorful makeup products that thrilled him. At that time, makeup in Japan was viewed as merely a matter of minimal grooming, and there was no habit of using colorful products like in Hollywood.
Uemura decided to return to Japan with the intent of bringing these items and techniques to contribute to expressing individual uniqueness through makeup.
What activities did you start in Japan?
KusakaIt is said that he began by importing cleansing oil used by actors in Hollywood. In Hollywood, bold makeup is the norm, yet Uemura found it strange that actresses' skin was not damaged.
He learned that they used oils that removed makeup while moisturizing the skin, and he felt a strong desire to bring that back to Japan.
Additionally, he opened a "makeup atelier" at his home in Omotesando, Tokyo, where he started makeup lessons to nurture young artists. To spark an interest in makeup, he blended Japanese style with Western makeup techniques and his own modern style in his teachings.
In 1983, he opened the first Shu Uemura store in Japan in Omotesando, adopting a groundbreaking open-tester format for that time. He also utilized transparent cosmetic containers, which were uncommon at that time, allowing customers to see the content without opening the packaging.
His aim was to communicate that makeup is a fun experience beyond just grooming, creating a store where customers could "see, choose, and enjoy buying."
The first Shu Uemura store in Japan opened in 1983

The Strength of Cleansing Oil: Gentleness to the Skin & Cleansing Power

I understand that Shu Uemura was the first to launch cleansing oil in Japan.

KusakaIn the 1960s in Japan, removing makeup with soap was the norm, so many people were hesitant about applying oil to their faces.
Uemura went around asking people close to him to "try using" the cleansing oil, spreading the word about its benefits through word of mouth. With a foundation that understood and accepted these cleansing oil advantages, I believe it helped when it came time to sell their own products.
Later, they developed their own cleansing oil tailored to Japanese skin and makeup. The formulation was reportedly challenging, but they successfully created a product that equaled the performance of the already sold cleansing oil, while also being suited for Japanese skin.
Current product: "ultime8∞ sublime tsubaki cleansing oil," 14,850 yen (tax included) according to the editorial department
Please share what has remained unchanged since the launch regarding cleansing oil.
KusakaThe core principle of "gently protecting the skin while removing makeup" has not changed. We also prioritize providing cutting-edge beauty, so we focus on creating products that meet the needs of the time.
MaruyamaOur researchers in the lab are always considering whether our existing products can meet modern needs, or if it would be better to add new products.
For example, the development of the "Botanic Cleansing Oil" arose from the growing concern that many may experience skin sensitivity. As a result, we created a new product considering formulations and textures that are easy for those with sensitive skin to use.
The new "Black Cleansing Oil" released this March takes inspiration from the increasing number of men with a heightened awareness of makeup and skincare, as well as ongoing trends where "dark pores and clogging" have long been significant skin issues for Japanese men and women in their 20s to 30s.
Given that those troubled by clogged pores often tend to have oily skin, we developed a texture and cleansing oil that is easy to use for oily skin types.
How is the concept of "removing makeup while protecting the skin" realized?
MaruyamaFor instance, the "ultime8∞ sublime tsubaki cleansing oil" contains Tsubaki seed oil (skin conditioning ingredient), which inherently offers high moisturizing power.
Additionally, during the renewal in fall 2023, we added Tsubaki flower extract (skin conditioning ingredient), which enhances the skin's barrier function, contributing to maintaining skin stability and health. With about 94% of the product formulated with beauty serum ingredients, you can experience a high level of functionality that goes beyond just makeup removal.
Since cleansing oil is something that is rinsed off, it doesn't penetrate the skin like a serum. However, even in that brief moment, it can help refine skin texture and lay the foundation for firmer skin.
Especially, the "ultime8∞ sublime tsubaki cleansing oil" is designed to address eight skin concerns (moisture, smoothness, radiance, firmness, visibility of pores, translucency, roughness, skin stability), making it easier for users to identify points that match their specific skin issues.
The five types of cleansing oil offered by Shu Uemura

Taking on New Challenges while Inheriting the Brand's DNA

Please share your future outlook.
KusakaWhile embracing the spirit of our founder, Shu Uemura, we want to continue creating higher quality products as a makeup artist brand originating from Japan.
We also aspire to remain a brand that can offer customers the feeling of "my skin looks beautiful," "my mood is lifted," and "makeup is fun."
As Uemura said, "Beautiful makeup begins with beautiful skin," we do not believe that only beautiful makeup is enough.
We also want to further spread the concept of approaching beauty from building the skin that serves as the foundation for makeup.
Moreover, at Shu Uemura, the essence lies in the desire to "challenge the unheard of" and "excite those around us." We have a lot of exciting projects planned for our customers in the future, so please look forward to it.
As a makeup artist brand that has pioneered the beauty path, Shu Uemura is sure to remain a leading force in the industry with its experience and technical prowess. It's thrilling to think about what new winds it will bring to the rapidly evolving beauty sector.

shu uemura ZOZOTOWN Store Top
https://zozo.jp/shop/shuuemura/detail/

Cleasing Oil Product Page
https://zozo.jp/shop/shuuemura/?p_scpid=29382

Text by Rika Okuyama

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