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Scientifically Proving "Carbonated Beauty Works": Kao's Carbonation Research and the Skincare Proposed by SOFINA iP
Building on years of dedicated skin science research, Kao has newly confirmed a groundbreaking mechanism in human skin: carbon dioxide gas activates the metabolic function of mitochondria within epidermal cells. The effects of 'carbonated beauty,' once only anecdotally understood, are now backed by solid scientific evidence.
Leading the charge in applying this research to product development is Kao's skincare brand, 'SOFINA iP.' We had the opportunity to speak with Yuka Murakami, the brand's PR representative, and researchers Junko Sonoda and Kei Takano.
Join us as we explore over 40 years of research on the stratum corneum, the micro-foam technology behind their carbonated cleansers, and the fascinating mechanism that activates mitochondrial metabolism in human skin.
PROFILE
Yuka Murakami
SOFINA Brand PR
After working as a beauty advisor and beauty seminar instructor, she took on the role of SOFINA Brand PR in 2021. She showcases the appeal of SOFINA products, which are grounded in skin science.
PROFILE
Junko Sonoda
Kao Skin Beauty Research Lab
Since joining Kao, she has been dedicated to developing facial cleansers. In 2018, she took charge of developing carbonated formulations. Her specialty is foam research, and she excels at creating products with a particular focus on the quality of their foam.
PROFILE
Kei Takano
Kao Skin Beauty Research Lab, Ph.D. (Medicine)
Since joining Kao, he has focused on skin science research for cosmetics development. He joined the carbonated formulation development team in 2022. He specializes in analyzing the action mechanisms of cosmetic ingredients and is currently taking on the new challenge of working with complex formulations.
Scientifically Proving the Blood Flow-Boosting Effects of Carbonation
We started by asking Kei Takano, a developer of carbonated formulations at Kao's Skin Beauty Research Lab, about the latest breakthroughs in their research.Let's talk about carbonated beauty. It's widely known that carbon dioxide gas boosts blood circulation, but how exactly does that lead to better skin?
TakanoWe've seen that applying carbonated formulas to the skin brings a variety of benefits, like boosting moisture in the stratum corneum, improving skin roughness, and even reducing acne. But the scientific evidence explaining 'how increased blood flow actually improves the skin' was missing—not just for us, but globally.
So, we formed a hypothesis. Our theory was that when blood flow is promoted, more oxygen and nutrients are delivered to the skin's epidermal cells. This, in turn, activates the 'mitochondria'—the energy factories inside our cells—making each individual cell more 'energized.' We theorized that this process leads to overall skin improvement, and we've dedicated our research to proving it.
It must have been incredibly challenging from a technical standpoint to prove that mitochondria were being activated in live human skin, right?
TakanoFor example, a traditional method would be to take a skin tissue sample, grind it up, and analyze its genes or proteins. But that's an invasive process, and crucially, the time lag between sample collection and analysis makes it impossible to capture changes in real time.
So, we focused on the fact that coenzymes like 'NADH' and 'FAD,' which are active during the mitochondria's energy production, naturally emit their own light—a property called 'autofluorescence.' We realized that by measuring this autofluorescence, we could test our hypothesis non-invasively, directly on human skin.
How did you manage to do that?
TakanoBy applying live imaging technology—a method for observing living cells and tissues—we established a new technique to visualize the metabolic state of mitochondria in epidermal cells in high-speed, real time, right on human skin.
Using this evaluation technology, we applied a formula with carbon dioxide gas and a formula without it to the skin and compared the activation state of the mitochondrial metabolism. The result was clear: we successfully captured evidence that the skin treated with the carbonated formula showed a distinct increase in mitochondrial metabolic function.
This scientifically demonstrated a piece of the puzzle linking improved blood flow to better skin. We believe that when cells get an energy boost and become more active, it could also contribute to the skin benefits of carbonic acid we've already identified, like normalizing the skin's turnover cycle and reducing inflammation from UV rays.
So, the key to these effects is the 100% carbon dioxide gas propellant, right?
SonodaThat's right. While there are products on the market that mix in things like LPG (liquefied petroleum gas), we're committed to using 100% carbon dioxide gas.
That's because our research has shown a clear correlation between the concentration of carbon dioxide gas and its blood-flow-boosting effects. To maximize the benefits for the skin, we stick with this formula, even though it's technically challenging.
Over 40 Years of Stratum Corneum Research
Next, we'll talk with Murakami from SOFINA's PR team about "SOFINA iP," Kao's skincare brand that develops products grounded in the company's dermatological research.Could you tell us about the concept behind "SOFINA iP" and the background of your research on the stratum corneum?
MurakamiOur story begins with the "SOFINA" skincare brand, which launched in 1982. Back then, our mission was pure and simple: we wanted to go beyond just improving appearances and make the skin itself truly beautiful. We aimed to bring scientifically-backed, affordable cosmetics to as many people as possible. This passion, combined with our existing knowledge of cosmetic ingredient development, led to its creation.
In 2015, we returned to those roots with the desire to deliver products based on dermatological science to a wide audience, and "SOFINA iP" was born. In 2023, we rebranded with the concept, "Install science into your bare skin."
Currently, our product lineup is built on two pillars of dermatological science: skincare products that use our 100% carbon dioxide gas propellant technology, like our iconic "Base Serum," and products that focus on the inherent moisture-retaining function of the stratum corneum cells themselves.
So, years of research into the stratum corneum are at the core of the brand. But to start, why is the stratum corneum so important in the first place?
MurakamiThe stratum corneum is the outermost layer of the skin, and it's incredibly thin—only about 0.02 millimeters thick. While it plays the crucial role of a barrier, protecting the body from external irritants, we also believe it's what determines the "beauty of the skin" as we see it.
That's why our labs have been deeply invested in studying the stratum corneum for so long. A deep understanding of the stratum corneum is an essential part of our approach, as we develop products based on the living skin itself, not just on individual ingredients.
When exactly did this history of stratum corneum research begin?
MurakamiIn the 1960s, it was discovered that the stratum corneum protects skin from dryness. Then, in the 1970s, its structure, composed of corneocytes and intercellular lipids, was revealed. Our company established a research lab in 1976, and that's when our research into ceramides began.
From the 1980s to the 1990s, our company made two major discoveries that now form the bedrock of modern skincare: the water-retention function of keratin and the moisturizing function of ceramides.
This history of pursuing the science of the stratum corneum for over 40 years is our foundation.
The Secret to Micro-Foam: Balancing Cleansing Power and Hydration
This research is reflected in your "Micro Foam Serum Cleanser." Wasn't it challenging to balance the conflicting functions of cleansing and moisturizing?
SonodaThe previous version of the product used a "Stratum Corneum Veil Formula." However, due to the nature of its moisturizing ingredients, we received feedback from some customers that it left a "slimy residue" or "didn't feel clean enough."
So, with the new formula, we focused on striking a balance—reducing that slimy feeling while maintaining the moisturizing effect. What's interesting is that even though we reduced the amount of cleansing ingredients compared to the previous version, it still cleans just as effectively. The secret lies in the "quality of the foam."
The quality of the foam, you say?
SonodaYes. A key characteristic of these bubbles is that the smaller they are, the higher their internal pressure. Because of this, when the bubbles collapse, a highly concentrated burst of carbon dioxide gas is released into the liquid. Also, because these fine bubbles have a large surface area, the amount of carbon dioxide gas that dissolves and escapes to the outside increases.
These fine bubbles penetrate every nook and cranny of the pores, gently washing away impurities. We believe this is how we achieved a perfect balance between powerful cleansing and a pleasant feel on the skin, without having to add more cleansing ingredients. It's a prime example of overcoming the challenge of balancing cleansing power with reduced skin irritation through technology.
The Vision for SOFINA iP: A Dedication to 100% Carbonic Acid
Finally, based on these research findings, how do you see SOFINA iP evolving in the future?
MurakamiIn the future, we will continue to strengthen our unique identity as a science brand. Instead of just following trends for specific ingredients, we focus on understanding and approaching the skin's structure itself. We are confident that customers in Japan and around the world will recognize the value of this meticulous scientific approach, and we look forward to delivering our technology and products to a global audience.
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