The Latest Developments in “Scent Research” Promoted by THREE: Exploring the Effects of Olfaction on the Body & Mind

Scent can uplift your mood or ease fatigue... Many have probably felt the benefits of scent in fleeting moments.

To delve deeper into this, the THREE HOLISTIC RESEARCH CENTER was established in 2022.

I spoke with Kentaro Sai, the director, about the establishment's background and the latest scent developments.

Establishing Uniqueness Through Commitment to Authentic Craftsmanship

With a focus on essential oils and domestic ingredients, THREE launched in 2009 with a dedication to Japan-aware craftsmanship, quickly becoming a popular brand. Support for essential oil scents has been high since the brand's inception.

“At the time, there were few similar brands, allowing us to provide high-value freshness, but as the years passed, brands with similar designs and concepts emerged, diluting that freshness.

"To be honest, we were also discussing 'What is unique to our brand?' At that time, a board member stated, 'We are engaged in authentic craftsmanship, and authenticity is THREE, isn't it?'

"Initially, I honestly wondered, 'What is authenticity?' (laughs). But when I posed that question to the executives, the response was, 'The ability to articulate products and the development process in one’s own words is proof of authentic craftsmanship.' It's true that if you were creating fakes, there’d be limited stories to tell.

"Looking at THREE back then, fewer people could speak about essential oils and domestic ingredients like in the early days.

"To communicate our brand philosophy, we felt there was more we could do. Engaging in research and exploration ourselves and moving our own hands and feet would lead to the storytelling of our craftsmanship, and so we established THREE HOLISTIC RESEARCH CENTER in 2022.”

The Holistic Research Center is divided into three departments: researchers, perfumers, and holistic care specialists.

Based on insights and evidence gained through research, perfumers create scents, and holistic care specialists strive to enhance customer awareness of essential oils at "AROMARIUM THREE" located in Hibiya.

Members Cover Everything from Farming to Essential Oil Research

There are only seven members at the center, but their activities are wide-ranging. They engage in everything from farming to researching extracted essential oils.

“Currently, THREE owns a farm equivalent to one Tokyo Dome in Kumamoto and one-fifth of a Tokyo Dome in Saga, cultivating plants used for products and research. Since we plow the soil ourselves, I spend about a quarter of the year in Kumamoto or Saga, and there are times I attend remote meetings from the fields (laughs).

"It is indeed challenging, but I believe providing local employment and renting difficult-to-manage waste farmland to tackle issues in society and the environment is an important role as well.

"Currently, we are in Kumamoto and Saga only, but as there are land characteristics suitable or unsuitable for plant growth, we plan to expand our farms nationwide in the future.”

At the Holistic Research Center, they are conducting research in three areas: plant studies, research related to essential oil extraction and manufacturing, and studies on the effects and benefits of essential oils on the mind, body, and skin, in collaboration with external institutions like universities.

“For example, we are researching how scent influences the sympathetic and parasympathetic nervous systems and heart rate with a professor specializing in heart rate at Aichi Gakuin University. Additionally, at Fukuoka Women's University, we are investigating how the quality of scent changes depending on the plant's growing environment.”

In fact, various aspects of fragrance are becoming increasingly understood. Therefore, I asked Sai, including external research, to share the latest developments in the world of scent.

"First of all, there are three pathways for scents: one enters through the nose to reach the brain, another enters through the mouth to reach the lungs, and finally, there is a direct pathway that acts on the skin. In brain research, the effects on the autonomic nervous system and endocrine system are significant, but the most fascinating study is that scents are closely tied to memory.

"Additionally, scent entering through the mouth is absorbed into the blood from the lungs, resulting in effects throughout the body.

"Moreover, research is also advancing on the idea that there are receptors in the skin that recognize scents. For example, it has been suggested that the presence of a certain essential oil facilitates the penetration of other extracts and components into the skin, potentially due to the scent components acting directly on the skin."

Research on fragrance is currently progressing in various fields worldwide, but since it is a relatively new area of study, there are many difficulties and trial-and-error processes involved.

"There are various challenges, particularly in plant research, where plants are influenced by various factors such as weather and surrounding environments, making it extremely difficult to collect samples under the same conditions," Sai said as he presented two types of geranium essential oils. One was from another company, and the other was extracted from plants cultivated in their own farm in Kumamoto.

Upon smelling them, the one from another company had a heavy, sweet scent, while the THREE oil was fresh, light, and transparent, making it easy for even an amateur to detect the differences in scent.

"However, these are the exact same species. We analyze the components using GC-MS, and even though they are the same species, not only the scents but also the components can differ.

"Moreover, personal preference for scents is very strong. With such differing aromas, even if the same geranium is used, some might like one while others dislike the other.

"However, each has its pros and cons, so I believe recognizing these differences and highlighting their strengths is key to enhancing the value of essential oils."

As natural products, it is impossible for humans to control all variables. Therefore, instead of simply dismissing the fluctuations, Sai emphasizes the importance of defining how they affect the mind, body, and skin.

"It is true that good medicine can be bitter, but no matter how beneficial the effects may be, an unpleasant scent can negatively impact the brain, possibly leading to adverse outcomes. How can we make it feel pleasant? Blending scents without highlighting a singular scent is one way; this is where a perfumer's skill comes into play."

A person's scent preferences are one of the research themes that Sai wishes to pursue currently.

"The scent preferences of animals, including humans, can be divided into innate and acquired traits. Innate traits relate to crisis avoidance; for instance, the smell of certain food might indicate danger.

"However, it is believed that humans are more influenced by acquired scents in their preferences. In other words, preferences are likely determined by the environment we have lived in and the scents we have encountered.

"Considering that, isn’t it interesting that our likes and dislikes in scents seem to reflect the journey of our lives? It would be fascinating to uncover what experiences have shaped our preferences based on the scents we use."

Researching essential oils and fragrances from various perspectives, new facts are gradually being uncovered. The latest research results are updated on the Holistic Research Center's website, so please check it out.