Is Resting the Skin Important for Spots & Sensitive Skin? The Ideal Role of Cosmetics & Skincare as Proposed by TOBIKEN

In 1933, before the war, amidst the distortions that emerged alongside modernization, TOBIKEN (東京美容科学研究所, then known as Genoa Cosmetic Chemistry Research Institute) was established.

"Cosmetics are fundamentally meant to keep the skin healthy and beautiful."

With this philosophy in mind, Takaaki Ozawa founded TOBIKEN, which continues to research and develop basic cosmetics grounded in dermatology and promote healthy skin care practices.

In this interview, we spoke with the current representative, Takako Ozawa, about the institute's efforts, insights gained over many years of addressing the relationship between cosmetics and human skin from a dermatological perspective, and the correct approaches to skincare.

TOBIKEN was established by Takaaki Ozawa as the research institution of GENOA The current representative, Takako Ozawa, is the granddaughter of the founder.

"This research institute, celebrating its 92nd anniversary this year, began when my grandfather questioned the true role of cosmetics. At the time of its founding, distortions of modernization had begun to emerge, and scientific perspectives on beauty were still quite shallow, with a possibility for lead and mercury to be included in cosmetics.

"Moreover, the influx of raw materials and cosmetics from abroad made it extremely challenging to assess their safety. Health hazards from tar dyes, which were not yet banned, were also reported back then.

"My grandfather considered it his mission to protect public health, advocating for necessary legal frameworks concerning cosmetics in collaboration with university researchers."

Prominent experts, including Kihei Tanioku (Doctor of Medicine), who served as an associate professor at the University of Tokyo and a professor at Okayama University, and Miki Mikami (Doctor of Medicine, Doctor of Science), who was the president of Mie University, joined in support of this philosophy.

Under these collaborations with specialists, TOBIKEN engages in both the research, development, and sales of cosmetics while continuing to formalize beauty science and promote educational outreach to beauticians and the general public.

With the cooperation of experts, TOBIKEN has been academically systematizing beauty science. The current representative of the institute, Ozawa, also demonstrates his expertise as a Doctor of Engineering (specializing in applied chemistry). Additionally, experts on raw materials, safety, and pharmaceutical laws are stationed as employees, continuing product development that utilizes the insights of beauty science and experts.

"There are products developed in collaboration with many specialists, including dermatologists and professors from medical universities.

"For example, Dr. Yoshinari Isobe (graduate of Kyoto University School of Medicine, dermatologist, director of Isobe Clinic), who advocates for non-steroid treatments for atopic dermatitis, has collaborated with us for many years.

"Moreover, when Dr. Sho Matsushita, the former vice president of Saitama Medical University, researched products suitable for atopy, he expressed interest in our product formulations and contacted us directly.

"We hold the responsibility not only to receive advice from experts but also to widely disseminate the knowledge of beauty science."

Cosmetics developed by TOBIKEN have gained broad support even from those with sensitive skin who have limited options.

"We hold beauty science seminars for barbers and hairdressers to deepen our connections with beauty salons nationwide.

"Through this network, we receive numerous customer feedback, which we incorporate into our development. We believe it is our mission to respond to our customers' skin concerns and requests by proposing solutions."

Your Skin is an Organ! It's Vital to Maintain Healthy Skin

People continue to struggle with skin issues. What kind of skincare is necessary to maintain healthy and beautiful skin?

"When asking the general public about their skincare methods, I often feel that many do not recognize that skin is a part of the body, or, to put it another way, an organ that plays a role in immunity. The skin is the frontline organ that protects the body from external stimuli. Those who are healthy tend to have clearer skin for this reason.

"The most important aspect of skincare is not to damage the skin's barrier function and to support that barrier function. When the barrier function weakens, it can lead to dry skin and sensitive skin, making it easier for foreign substances like additives and pathogens to penetrate.

"Considering skin physiology, it is crucial to protect the internal moisture and tissues rather than forcibly penetrate water and ingredients from the outside. However, the reality is that excessive skincare or methods focused on penetration often weaken the barrier function.

"Various skincare methods are proposed by different companies, but at our company, we believe it's essential to cherish the skin's inherent 'protective' functions and maintain overall health, as this is the foundation of beauty."

Speaking of TOBIKEN, cold cream is widely recognized. This cleansing cream, which is oil-based and does not use emulsifiers or synthetic surfactants.

"Makeup does not wash off with water, which is why typical cleansing agents incorporate emulsifiers and strong cleansing ingredients.

"What we continue to uphold is the principle that 'oil cleanses oil' when it comes to removing makeup and other oil-based impurities. We believe that constituting the cleansing agent with oil alone allows for preserving the skin's natural sebum and enables cleansing that maintains the barrier function.

"The cold cream is applied to the skin and blended with makeup, and then wiped off with a damp cotton pad. The cool sensation felt during application to the skin is where the name originates.

"Using cold cream for makeup removal makes sense even when considering the microbial environment of the skin. Sufficient cleansing effects can be obtained without using strong cleansing ingredients, which helps keep the skin environment healthy."

Recently, the Rates of Sensitive Skin Are Rapidly Increasing! What is NG Skincare that Destroys the Barrier?

Recent reports from major cosmetics companies indicate that more people are becoming aware of having sensitive skin.

"In a survey conducted by our company in the early Heisei period, skin issues primarily revolved around blemishes and wrinkles, but now most consultations are about sensitive skin and weak skin (depleted barrier function). One of the factors is the excessive use of sheet masks.

"While sheet masks temporarily soften the skin by providing external moisture, excessive use can interfere with the turnover of the stratum corneum and weaken the barrier function. The skin's natural role is to retain moisture within the body, and excessive hydration from the outside is not anticipated.

"Whether one seeks immediate effects or aims for the skin's inherent health determines the appropriate skincare method. While quick-fix care is not necessarily bad, continuing such methods can lead to barrier function deterioration."

Ozawa points out that in the past decade, there has been an increase in dry skin among men. This may be due to many people giving their skin moisture without knowing the correct skincare methods, relying mainly on moisturizing men's cosmetics such as lotion.

Additionally, although there is a high demand for skin whitening in Asia and sun protection has become common in Japan, the issue of spots still persists significantly.

"With the rising interest in whitening care, there have also been more inquiries regarding spots and wrinkles at our company. Despite the use of parasols, avoiding sunlight, and using whitening cosmetics, many individuals still struggle with these concerns. I believe this indicates a problem with the whitening care methods themselves.

"If one relies too much on cosmetics for whitening, it can burden the skin. It is most important to maintain the skin's barrier function properly.

"As long as this is preserved, melanin is naturally expelled through the metabolism of the stratum corneum. In other words, healthy skin can achieve whitening on its own. I hope you aim to enhance this natural whitening ability."

Those who diligently practice skincare by deeply infusing moisture with sheet masks, beauty serums, and lotions alongside whitening may risk damaging their barrier function.

"If you are concerned about signs of aging or skin troubles, it is essential to let your skin rest. Just as with recovering from a cold, it is vital to believe in your skin's inherent healing power and wait for it to heal itself."

TOBIKEN, which has advocated for the proper role of cosmetics and skincare based on beauty science, shared its future outlook.

"Currently, the beauty information is overflowing across all types of media, making it difficult for individuals to determine what they truly need. While each manufacturer carefully produces their products, it is not easy for users to make appropriate choices according to their objectives.

"We aim to help everyone restore their skin's inherent health. To achieve this, we intend to work on providing correct information and establishing criteria for selection.

"Thanks to this, our beauty science instructor diploma course has been well received, with over 20,000 professionals already participating. In addition to strengthening follow-ups for such qualified individuals, we plan to alleviate excessive perfectionism and anxiety regarding beauty, and to share a wide range of information about beauty science and lifestyle through platforms like YouTube, to enable people to enjoy beauty more casually."

Through its 92 years of history, TOBIKEN has sincerely engaged with skin and cosmetics. The philosophy and products they offer are undoubtedly persuasive. Given the information overload of modern times, why not seek to learn correct knowledge in beauty science and pursue your original beauty?