Making Tokyo an Asian Fashion Hub: Why the Fashion Exhibition "TRANOÏ" Is Gaining Attention

Are you familiar with the international fashion trade show "TRANOÏ" which represents Europe?

It is the only trade show officially recognized by Paris Fashion Week, playing a vital role in supporting designers and buyers aiming for global markets.

In September this year, the first-ever "TRANOÏ TOKYO" was held in Japan, drawing attention within the Japanese fashion industry.

Why did TRANOÏ choose Tokyo as its venue? What is the background of TRANOÏ's inception, and how does it differ from other exhibitions?

By learning about TRANOÏ, you may gain insights into future trends in the fashion industry.

This time, we spoke with Tadaaki Tsushima from TRANOÏ.

A Unique Exhibition that Balances Designer Development & International Influence

TRANOÏ was launched in Paris in 1998. With over 25 years of history, what led to its establishment? Tsushima explained:

"At the time of its founding, there were few venues for innovative and unique designers to gain attention in the fashion industry, so TRANOÏ was established to fill that gap. The name TRANOÏ means 'between us' in Italian, reflecting the idea of creating a direct connection between designers and buyers."

It’s clear that TRANOÏ's purpose extends beyond merely hosting an exhibition of progressive brands, focusing instead on providing opportunities for designers and buyers, but how does it differentiate itself from other exhibitions and what is its operational philosophy?

"The difference lies in TRANOÏ's commitment to providing a personal experience for individual buyers and designers while maintaining an international influence, adapting flexibly to changes over time. Key areas of focus include discovering and nurturing emerging designers, promoting creativity, and enhancing connections between people.

"TRANOÏ offers a platform that enables designers and buyers to build long-term relationships rather than just facilitating business transactions."

With this mindset, TRANOÏ has seen the emergence of numerous well-known brands and designers, such as Acne Jeans and Maison Kitsuné.

TRANOÏ features an event called "Tranoï Woman" that specializes in women's brands, showcasing emerging designers and contemporary brands. This year, "Tranoï Woman" will also take place in Paris, introducing new elements and features.

"TRANOÏ collaborated with CANEX [The Creative Africa Nexus] to showcase 20 innovative African designers. Additionally, we partnered with China Select to welcome 10 Chinese designers, celebrating the 60th anniversary of diplomatic relations between China and France."

As mentioned earlier, there’s a notable emphasis on discovering and nurturing designers here as well. I also inquired about notable brands and designers at TRANOÏ EVENT WOMEN 2024.

"It's hard to choose, but Danish brand 'HELMSTEDT,' which was selected by Vogue as the most forward-looking young designer in Copenhagen, and South African designer 'THEBE MAGUGU,' who won the LVMH Prize in 2019, are particularly noteworthy."

This exhibition gathers brands that are garnering attention from around the world, with numerous brands from Japan also participating, including RED CARD TOKYO, Maison de Soil, evam eva, and ITTI. Most brands secure new contracts each time, and the local reputation is quite favorable.

Making Tokyo an Asian Fashion Hub

In September 2024, the first-ever "TRANOÏ TOKYO" was held in the Asia region. What led to its organization?

"As the importance of the Asian market increases, Japan holds a position that influences the entire Asia with its sophisticated market and rich creative scene. Through the hosting in Tokyo, we aimed to deepen exchanges between the European and Asian fashion industries, providing new business opportunities.

"Additionally, at TRANOÏ PARIS, Japan ranks third in the number of visitors, following France and Italy. Throughout TRANOÏ's history, many Japanese brands have participated, and several have gained international success. For these reasons, we feel a special connection to Japan," said Tsushima.

TRANOÏ is aiming to tap into the Asian market by holding exhibitions in Japan, and it seems favorable towards Japanese brands. For this Tokyo event, were there any special initiatives that differed from the exhibitions in Paris?

"To achieve the team's overall goal of making Tokyo an Asian fashion hub, we must overcome many challenges. The most important factors are buyer satisfaction and exhibitor satisfaction.

"The brand composition that buyers are looking for will continue to be a concern for the team moving forward. In addition to that, we have partnered with official transportation companies to address issues on the exhibitor side, such as 'I want to place an order, but there are no agents available' or 'I can't export even though I've connected with Asian buyers because I don't know how to do it or how to price the products.'"

Efforts have been made to enhance buyer and exhibitor satisfaction, and the actual results of the first TRANOÏ TOKYO event showed a positive response, with many attendees providing favorable comments. Moreover, many of the brands that exhibited this time have expressed a positive response, saying they want to exhibit again next year.

Based on these reactions, we can say that the inaugural TRANOÏ TOKYO event was successful. TRANOÏ TOKYO is scheduled to be held regularly in the future, with confirmed dates for March 18-19, 2025, and September 3-4 of the same year.

I also inquired about TRANOÏ's future prospects.

"There are three main points. The first is further expansion in the Asian market. With the launch of TRANOÏ TOKYO, we aim to strengthen our presence in the Asian market and establish our position as an international fashion platform by expanding our network with Asian creators and buyers.

"The second is discovering and nurturing new talents. TRANOÏ serves as a platform for discovering new talents by providing access to global markets and promoting creative collaborations that transcend regions and borders, bringing fresh air to the fashion industry.

"The third is expanding the global network. We aim to further strengthen the global network within the fashion industry, creating opportunities for fashion business in diverse markets and promoting international collaboration among designers and buyers."

These prospects for TRANOÏ are expected to bring new possibilities to the fashion industry while also contributing to the promotion of global cultural exchange. It is anticipated that TRANOÏ will further strengthen its role as a bridge connecting designers and buyers, contributing to the overall development of the fashion industry.