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With a 140-Year History, the Established Salon-Exclusive Brand "Wella" Delves Into Its Development Capabilities Following the Move of R&D to Japan
As a hair care brand from Germany that has been researching for over 140 years as a professional in hair, Wella launched a new line, "ULTIME," from its salon-exclusive brand in July this year.
"ULTIME REPAIR" has gained popularity for instantly making damaged hair smooth and manageable upon use. This time, we explored its development background, the reason for moving the Asia R&D hub from Singapore to Japan, and the changes post-move.
PROFILE
Angel Koh
WELLA COMPANY GROUP
Ph.D. Director, R&D Headquarters, APAC
PROFILE
Hiromasa Takasugi
WELLA COMPANY GROUP
Manager, R&D Headquarters, Stylist Network/Global Test Salon
Analysis of Hair Repair Factors Based on 140 Years of Expertise
The hair-intensive repair line "ULTIME REPAIR" is inspired by skincare. Could you tell us about the customer needs and hair care trends that were behind its development?
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TakasugiRecently, the prevailing notion is that "if the hair isn't beautiful, the skin and overall impression won't look beautiful either." In this context, Wella's data indicates that approximately 70% of women feel their hair is damaged due to hair coloring, perming, drying, and more, highlighting a high demand for damage repair.
Wella Professional aims to increase the number of people who enjoy hair design and embrace positive changes, launching "ULTIME REPAIR" with the message of "Stronger, More Beautiful."
In recent years, there has been a growing trend of people investing in hair care, and high-priced items are performing well. In fact, even in salons, there is a demand to keep hair manageable and beautiful even on days without salon visits, leading customers to often request home care suggestions.
While new ingredients are emerging in the hair care market, "ULTIME REPAIR" utilizes familiar ingredients from skincare based on Wella's extensive knowledge. Similar to skincare, we believe there is a need for products that can provide greater benefits when multiple products are combined.
"ULTIME REPAIR" incorporates skincare-inspired ingredients like AHA and OMEGA-9. What challenges are there in applying skincare ingredients to hair care?
KohAHA—alpha hydroxy acid—and OMEGA-9 come in many varieties. We carefully considered the balance and compatibility with other ingredients among the many available options to choose those best suited for hair repair.
Each ingredient was scrutinized, undergoing multiple upgrades in pursuit of the best combination. Even with Wella's existing knowledge, reaching the current formulation took five years.
"ULTIME REPAIR" is an out-of-bath item, but is there a trend toward emphasizing out-of-bath care in the latest trends?
TakasugiTo manage hair in your preferred texture and ideal condition, salon care and in-bath care are essential.
However, there are many individuals who find it difficult to visit salons frequently, prioritizing time and convenience. Thus, salons propose out-of-bath items to help enhance clients' awareness of hair care.
Out-of-bath items are also easy for stylists to incorporate into clients' styling, allowing the promotion of the unique effects of salon-exclusive out-of-bath care. Clients who appreciate the benefits of out-of-bath items often develop an interest in in-bath items as well.
"ULTIME REPAIR" plans to launch shampoo and masks in February next year. We aim to suggest a night routine that includes shampoo and masks for clients who enjoy "ULTIME REPAIR" out-of-bath items.
Please tell us the effective usage and easy-to-implement ways to use "ULTIME REPAIR."
TakasugiThe mist is easy to use without getting your hands dirty and can be utilized to fix bedhead on busy mornings. Just like skincare, layering the mist, night milk, and oil is also recommended.
If you're concerned about dry hair during the day, I recommend using oil, which easily blends with dry hair. However, applying moisture over set hair can lead to a mess, so it's better to refrain from using the mist after styling.
What feedback have we received from users of "ULTIME REPAIR"? Please share any unexpected reactions as well.
TakasugiIn recent years, the hair care market has been dominated by oil and milk types, but with the introduction of the mist type by Wella, we’ve received feedback such as "it can be combined with my existing oils and milks." There's great resonance with the idea of using multiple items in hair care.
The most popular product is the mist-type "Miracle Hair Treatment." We've received unexpectedly positive responses to the mist. A video shared by a salon stylist on social media, demonstrating that a comb could glide through hair that was previously tangled using the mist, gained significant attention.
What surprised us is how many people appreciate the scent of "ULTIME," leading to a demand for a complete "ULTIME" experience from a fragrance perspective.
What unique points in the development of "ULTIME REPAIR" can only Wella achieve?
Koh"ULTIME REPAIR" was developed with inspiration from skincare, but there are significant differences between skin and hair. The key difference is the presence or absence of self-regeneration capability. Hair lacks this self-regeneration ability, thus demanding a different approach. Some ingredients work wonders on skin but may not be effective for hair.
During the development of "ULTIME REPAIR," we leveraged Wella's 140 years of expertise to analyze factors that contribute to hair repair. As a result, we discovered OMEGA-9, a component that can be generated within the human body, as the optimal ingredient for hair repair instead of relying on synthetic chemicals.
The ability to find the most effective formulation can be attributed to Wella’s robust R&D that carefully conducted analysis and tests of ingredient ratios based on insights accumulated over more than 140 years.
Realizing a Deep Dialogue with Customers from Domestic Bases
Wella's Asia R&D center was relocated from Singapore to Japan in 2023. While Singapore often serves as a hub for global companies in Asia, what prompted the move to Japan and the establishment of the "TOKYO Innovation Center"?
KohThe impetus for relocating the Asia R&D center to Japan was the COVID-19 pandemic. For Wella, Japan is one of its key markets. Before the pandemic, I used to travel to Japan once a month, but the stringent travel restrictions to and from Singapore made it challenging to adequately capture the needs and trends of Japan.
Since the relocation and the launch of the "TOKYO Innovation Center," we can more easily feel Japanese consumers' needs and their refined beauty consciousness, allowing for better communication with Japanese customers. The company processes have also evolved, becoming significantly more efficient, and I feel we have established a system that closely supports salon environments.
What research and development are currently underway at the "TOKYO Innovation Center"?
KohWe are currently actively working on hair color and hair care products that align with market trends. We plan to add variations of the "CHARISMA BROWN" hair color, which uniquely combines depth and transparency while softening the appearance of coarse hair.
The "ILLUMINA COLOR," known for its shine and transparency, is being enhanced with new techniques to minimize hair damage from coloring, and on October 16, "LUXE LINE" will be upgraded. "LUXE LINE" has been improved at the "TOKYO Innovation Center" to address the unique needs of Japanese hair.
Can you share insights on the future prospects for research and product development at the TOKYO Innovation Center?
KohWith R&D now based in Japan, it's become much easier to directly capture the voices of hair salons and customers. I personally make it a point to visit drugstores and hair salons frequently for inspiration. Also, "TOKYO Innovation Center" has many researchers who are passionate about beauty and sensitive to the latest information.
While ensuring robust communication within our organization, we will continue our research and development efforts to provide innovative and appealing products that can respond timely to needs, deepening our relationships with Japanese stylists and customers.
Text by Rie Tsuguta (Tsukuyomi Inc.)
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