Fashion Tech News symbol
2023.06.05

Stimulating & Beat-Filled Fashion: Unraveling the History of HYSTERIC GLAMOUR

Copied to Clipboard
I must have been around the time I entered middle school when I realized that the "yellow shopper" bag belonged to a very popular brand. Just when I began to take an interest in fashion, I distinctly remember seeing the seniors I looked up to and the fashionable kids in my class proudly carrying that "yellow shopper" on their shoulders.
It didn't take long to understand that the clothes from HYSTERIC GLAMOUR, which had a slightly radical and vivid impression, were highly valued and something to be proud of owning.
While I spent my youth during the peak of HYSTERIC GLAMOUR in the late '90s, the "admiration" and "popularity" for this brand amongst my generation hardly needs an explanation.
This is a legacy that has been passed on to the next generation, seeing a resurgence again entering Reiwa. This time, we delve into the charm of HYSTERIC GLAMOUR, garnering immense support from Generation Z.

The Birth of Designer Nobuhiko Kitamura

HYSTERIC GLAMOUR was initiated as a brand in 1984. Checking the company that runs the brand, the name "OZONE COMMUNITY CORPORATION" stands out.
Currently, the only brand that the company operates is HYSTERIC GLAMOUR, but there used to be a brand called OZON COMMUNITY. Before delving into HYSTERIC GLAMOUR, let's explain OZON COMMUNITY first.
Right is OZONE COMMUNITY, left is HYSTERIC GLAMOUR. Frequently featured in "CUTiE" at the time (1989 / "CUTiE Bessatsu Takarajima Vol.6" / JICC Publishing Bureau)
Right is OZONE COMMUNITY, left is HYSTERIC GLAMOUR. Frequently featured in "CUTiE" at the time (1989 / "CUTiE Bessatsu Takarajima Vol.6" / JICC Publishing Bureau)
OZON COMMUNITY (not to be confused with the company, OZONE COMMUNITY) was a brand established in 1978. Although it has since ended, it was a brand that gained immense popularity among young people throughout the '90s, much like HYSTERIC GLAMOUR.
In 1996, the high-end casual line "OZONE ROCKS" was launched, which also boasted immense popularity, especially among young people.
With concepts based on the three themes of "DESTRUCTION," "SUPER GENERATION," and "ANDORO FUTURE," OZONE ROCKS had a cooler and edgier impression compared to OZON COMMUNITY, and it was well-favored by many artists.
Although OZONE COMMUNITY was merged in 2002 and ended in 2008, many still remember iconic items like the Indian print that epitomized OZONE ROCKS, the highly designed denim, and the stylish original stickers and novelty items. Even though OZON COMMUNITY and OZONE ROCKS are no longer, they still have a strong fan base, with many people collecting their vintage pieces today.
Now, let's get back to the main topic of HYSTERIC GLAMOUR.
As mentioned earlier, HYSTERIC GLAMOUR officially started in 1984 when Nobuhiko Kitamura joined OZONE COMMUNITY.
Kitamura had originally done part-time work as a design artist for Ozone Community while attending Tokyo's Mode Gakuen. Just when he was about to graduate, the company president invited him to join the organization by saying, "We're launching a casual brand, want to try it out?"
Joining the company and launching a brand in the same year is rather rare in the apparel industry, leading to the birth of "Designer Nobuhiko Kitamura." This is when Kitamura's keen natural sense began to shine at HYSTERIC GLAMOUR.

The Turbulent Early Days of HYSTERIC GLAMOUR

Left is a rare piece from the first HYSTERIC GLAMOUR collection. Right are characters that colored HYSTERIC GLAMOUR. The popularity of "HYS Bear" remains strong today (1990 / "HYSTERIC GLAMOUR BOOK: Gekkan CUTiE Special Edition" / JICC Publishing Bureau)
Left is a rare piece from the first HYSTERIC GLAMOUR collection. Right are characters that colored HYSTERIC GLAMOUR. The popularity of "HYS Bear" remains strong today (1990 / "HYSTERIC GLAMOUR BOOK: Gekkan CUTiE Special Edition" / JICC Publishing Bureau)
When people hear the name HYSTERIC GLAMOUR, they might strongly associate it with the late '90s. However, the brand drew attention right from its inception in 1984.
The process of the brand's birth might seem smooth sailing when just hearing about it. However, the schedule at that time was a whirlwind.
Kitamura joined the company in June 1984, decided on the brand name by the end of June, and had the exhibition in July—a tight schedule. The grace period until the exhibition was just one month.
At that time, Kitamura was the only person at HYSTERIC GLAMOUR. It was an incredibly busy time, akin to hell.
At the first exhibition, the editor-in-chief of the magazine "Olive" visited on the first day, borrowing about 30 out of 40 samples to use in an upcoming Paris shoot.
More than half of the products were gone on the first day, and the items taken by stylists were all displayed through instant photos. Kitamura himself felt displeasure with the exhibition, thinking that it only highlighted flaws, but it ended up being a total success.
From the brand's launch in 1984 and the successful exhibition, the first franchise store in Ashikaga City, Tochigi Prefecture was decided, and two years later, a store opened in Laforet Harajuku. Laforet was bustling as a sanctuary for DC brands at the time, but the clothes from HYSTERIC GLAMOUR stood out even among them.
In 1985, the children's clothing line "HYSTERIC Mini" was launched, garnering attention as "dream children's clothes" even beyond the existing HYSTERIC GLAMOUR fan base.
Early Hysteric Mini. Many of the cute designs and Mini characters are still loved today (1990 / HYSTERIC GLAMOUR BOOK Special Monthly Cutie Edition / JICC Publishing Bureau)
Early Hysteric Mini. Many of the cute designs and Mini characters are still loved today (1990 / HYSTERIC GLAMOUR BOOK Special Monthly Cutie Edition / JICC Publishing Bureau)
And at Laforet, as soon as it started its booth, HYSTERIC GLAMOUR achieved the highest per square meter sales efficiency. It was unprecedented for a young man of just 22 or 23 to build such a record in Laforet, where many popular brands were lined up.
Although HYSTERIC GLAMOUR was already attracting attention as a pop and avant-garde brand, Kitamura's charisma and success story became a focal point within the industry.
However, contrary to the industry's attention, Kitamura himself neither had time to savor the joy nor felt the reality of being number one in sales efficiency per square meter.
From an outsider's perspective, both HYSTERIC GLAMOUR and Kitamura appeared dazzlingly splendid, but when Kitamura reflects on those days, he says it was a repetition of practice and failure every day.
Despite his initial inexperience and constant feelings of guilt towards customers, the vivid colors and impactful prints, and designs that incorporated elements of 60s and 70s pop culture, steadily increased HYSTERIC GLAMOUR's fervent fan base.
1 / 2 pages
Share Article
Copied to Clipboard