2023.09.06

Interview with STANDARD CALIFORNIA Owner Hidetaka Akudo: Reflecting on the Past 20 Years

Copied to Clipboard

Since its opening in 2003, STANDARD CALIFORNIA has established a unique style focused on California culture, consistently leading the forefront of fashion. This year marks the brand's 20th anniversary. We sat down with the owner, Hidetaka Akudo, who is also the president of TRI SHEEPS CO., LTD., to discuss the roots of the store and the journey over the past 20 years.

STANDARD CALIFORNIA Owner, President of TRI SHEEPS CO., LTD., Hidetaka Akudo

From Vintage Store to Original Brand

"The store opened in Tokyo’s Ebisu, initially focusing on vintage clothing. We also selected items from LA-based studs belt brand 'HTC,' which wasn’t well-known in Japan at the time. However, media exposure gradually brought recognition. Buyers from other select shops began asking us to wholesale HTC items, spreading its popularity.

"We started producing original items featuring our logo, which also gained traction and resulted in wholesale requests. This development approximately two years post-opening marked the beginning of our brand's evolution.

"Around 2006, as our product lineup expanded, we held our first exhibition, officially launching the STANDARD CALIFORNIA brand."

Cap and T-shirt with the same motif as the originals from the time. SD Logo Patch Mesh Cap (Reference Product) SD Basic Logo T (Reference Product)

The Beginnings of STANDARD CALIFORNIA and a Key Influencer

Let's take a step back and hear from Akudo about his journey before opening the shop. What motivated the establishment of STANDARD CALIFORNIA?

"During my four years in university, I worked part-time at an outdoor shop and occasionally at a vintage store across the street. I loved surfing and went to Bali once a year for it, also buying a new surfboard annually. While I didn’t spend much on fashion, I loved vintage clothes, often wearing 'Levi's' 501 jeans and 'Champion' reverse weave sweatshirts.

After university, I went to Australia on a working holiday for about a year. Upon returning to Japan, I worked for a company dealing with snowboarding and outdoor products for roughly ten years. The job involved frequent trips to Los Angeles and San Francisco, through which I reconnected with a university friend in LA who was sourcing vintage clothes. I used these trips to learn more about vintage buying.

After gaining experience and confidence, I started preparing to open my own vintage store while still working. This led to the opening of STANDARD CALIFORNIA in 2003. Trusting my friend's expertise, I communicated the types of vintage items I wanted, and he sourced them. Our professional relationship continues to this day."

2003 Opening & HTC Belts

We asked Akudo to share memories from the early days of STANDARD CALIFORNIA, focusing on their vintage finds and the partnership with HTC's designer.

"I remember the challenges of finding the right property. We initially looked around Nakameguro, but it was tough to find the ideal spot. We expanded our search to Daikanyama and Ebisu, eventually finding our current location while it was still under construction. I communicated my vision to the landlord, and without seeing the completed property, we secured it.

"Our initial inventory focused on vintage buys and HTC belts and accessories. We did not handle super-vintage or highly sought-after vintage clothes. For example, we focused on post-1983 'Levi's' 501 models but selected those with excellent fading. For T-shirts, we curated 'Champion,' surf and skate brands, and for sweatshirts, 'Champion' reverse weave.

"Regarding HTC belts, I visited designer Zip Stevenson before the opening and secured an exclusive deal, which proved successful. As HTC gained popularity, so did STANDARD CALIFORNIA alongside it."