2024.09.06
Behind the Design of Hikaru Utada's LIVE Tour Costumes: “Unknown Threads” Created by Microorganisms [A-POC ABLE ISSEY MIYAKE × Spiber]
The "HIKARU UTADA SCIENCE FICTION TOUR 2024" reached its finale on September 1st. Are you familiar with the beautiful LIVE tour costumes that appeared on stages across all performances, including Taipei and Hong Kong?
The dress, with countless curves intertwined in a gradient, seemed to wrap around the body as if embodying Hikaru Utada's rich vocals.
This costume was created through an exceptionally unique collaboration. The design is from "A-POC ABLE ISSEY MIYAKE." The fabric features the "Brewed Protein™ Fiber" developed by the biotechnology company Spiber, a sustainable material created through microbial fermentation technology.
This dress points towards the future of fashion. We spoke to Yoshiyuki Miyamae, leading a team at Issey Miyake's atelier, along with Akane Asai from Spiber, about the behind-the-scenes production.
PROFILE
(from left) A-POC ABLE ISSEY MIYAKE Design Engineers: Manabu Nakatani, Nanae Takahashi, Designer: Yoshiyuki Miyamae
A-POC ABLE ISSEY MIYAKE Team
PROFILE
Akane Asai
Spiber Inc. Marketing & Communication Department Communication Section Manager
The Vast Potential Nested in a “Single Piece of Fabric”
"This dress is based on the concept of being a single piece of fabric."While facing the actual garment, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae from A-POC ABLE shares his thoughts.
"We conceived the design direction by expanding on the imagery from Utada's latest album, 'SCIENCE FICTION.' We crafted an organic and dynamic form by connecting a piece of fabric with softly curved pleats in a ring shape while ensuring it fit the body lines perfectly."
At first glance, it's hard to believe that this is created from a single continuous piece of fabric. The technique of tailoring the fabric into a dress, using both curves for volume that can be perceived from any audience seat and curves that fit the body, showcases the essence of Issey Miyake, which has pioneered garment construction with a perspective that differs from Western three-dimensional cutting.
Simultaneously, it embodies the very identity of “A Piece of Cloth.” (A-POC)
"Through repeated discussions with stylist Kyohei Ogawa, who has been in charge of Utada’s costumes for years, and the tour directors, we were able to balance the design and functionality required for stage costumes. We adjusted the silhouette balance until the end by hearing feedback on aspects like how the microphone is held and Utada’s movements on stage. I was pleased to hear that Utada said 'It's lighter than it looks' once she wore the costume," recounts Nanae Takahashi, who was responsible for the pattern creation.
This dress is not only a blend of beauty and functionality; it is also packed with cutting-edge technology, representing a crystallization of innovation in fashion. The biotechnology company Spiber, headquartered in Yamagata, invited A-POC ABLE to this project.
An Exceptional Project Linked by the “Power of Microorganisms”
"Initially, we approached Utada’s team to discuss providing costumes made with Brewed Protein™ fiber from Spiber. As the planning progressed, we decided to consider and propose someone to handle the design and production, and it turned out to be A-POC ABLE, who had already been developing using the material," explains Akane Asai, Communication Manager at Spiber.
Spiber has created the fiber "Brewed Protein™ Fiber" for this costume material through its unique microbial fermentation process.
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