2024.07.30
Beauty Industry's New Focus! Momotani Juntenkan's Research on Rosemary & Epidermal Turnover
Momotani Juntenkan is a long-established cosmetics manufacturer founded in 1885, widely known for Japan's first Western medicine-based lotion, "Nikibi-tori Bigansui." In 1913, they pioneered the establishment of a cosmetics testing department. They have created brands such as Meishoku Cosmetics and RF28 and also operate an OEM company, Cosmetic Japan, along with their own esthetic salons.
This time we interviewed Takahiro Ishida and Noriko Nogami, researchers at Momotani Juntenkan, the oldest cosmetics research institution in Japan. We discussed the highly anticipated research in the beauty industry focused on rosemary extract's ability to improve skin dullness by targeting epidermal turnover.
PROFILE
Left: Noriko Nogami, Right: Takahiro Ishida
Takahiro Ishida
Doctor of Biotechnology & Executive Expert, Central Research Institute, Momotani Juntenkan Ltd.
Noriko Nogami
Deputy Director, Central Research Institute, Momotani Juntenkan Ltd.
Momotani Juntenkan's Research on Rosemary Extract Captivates the Industry
Tell us about Momotani Juntenkan's research on rosemary extract.
Takahiro Ishida (hereafter, Ishida)We focused on how epidermal turnover affects the smoothness, feel, and dullness of the skin. We identified rosemary as a substance that influences the activity of desquamation enzymes involved in this mechanism.
In 2016, we discovered that decreased activity of the desquamation enzyme kallikrein is related to the appearance of age-related skin dullness and that increasing this activity can reduce skin dullness. We presented these findings at the IFSCC Congress in Orlando (2016).
Continuing our research, we found that a lotion containing rosemary extract can increase kallikrein activity in the human stratum corneum, gently reducing old keratin layers and decreasing the sensation of skin dullness and thickness. These findings were presented at the IFSCC Conference in Milan (2019).
The research also confirmed that rosemary extract promotes the proliferation of epidermal keratinocytes. Thus, it suggests that a lotion with rosemary extract can supply epidermal cells while facilitating desquamation. We expect it to properly regulate epidermal turnover, reducing both skin dullness and thickening sensations.
Our presentations at IFSCC and publications in industry journals have garnered significant attention, leading other companies to conduct follow-up research. We believe producing such foundational research results stems from our 139-year commitment to research and our ability to constantly adapt to societal changes with our technical prowess.
Were there any other plant candidates besides rosemary in your research?
Noriko Nogami (hereafter, Nogami)At Momotani Juntenkan, our research is driven not by material inspiration but by the desire to enhance our customers' beauty.
This ethos is rooted in our founder's wish to cure his wife's acne, leading him to travel from Wakayama to what is now the University of Tokyo, where he continued his research and developed "Bigansui" (currently "Meishoku Facial Water Medicated Lotion [明色美顔水 薬用化粧水]").
Even 139 years since our establishment, we remain dedicated to addressing beauty and health concerns. We adhere to the founding research principles of our first lab director, focusing on uncovering the truth with unconventional ideas and providing scientifically grounded products.
In our research on rosemary extract, we started by scientifically verifying the conditions of beautiful skin, targeting smoothness, and lack of dullness. We screened over 200 potential ingredients, including single components like vitamin C and various traditional herbal plants, eventually identifying rosemary extract.
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