In recent years, the cosmetic ingredient "retinol" has been trending and widely discussed on social media. Did you know that retinol is actually a type of vitamin A?
It is the skincare brand "Environ," established in 1987, that has been researching this vitamin A for over 30 years.
Hence, we asked Yasuko Ohnishi, the brand manager of Environ at Protea Japan Co., Ltd., to explain the surprising strength of vitamin A that many might not know.
PROFILE
Yasuko Ohnishi
Protea Japan Co., Ltd. Environ Brand Manager
Joined Protea Japan Co., Ltd., the general distributor of Environ in Japan, in 2008. After working in product planning, academic training, and the marketing department, she currently serves as the brand manager for Environ.
Could you tell us what inspired Environ to focus on vitamin A?
Environ was founded by South African plastic surgeon Dr. Des Fernandes after losing two young patients to skin cancer (melanoma).
Dr. Des later studied numerous documents on skin and photo damage, discovering that vitamin A and antioxidants are beneficial for preventing photoaging. This led to the creation of a skincare brand centered around a concept of "not only looking beautiful but transforming the skin itself to be healthy and beautiful." Thus, a vitamin A-infused skincare brand was born.
Dr. Des Fernandes
Incidentally, the trending ingredient retinol is a type of vitamin A. As this beauty ingredient is garnering attention, many products emphasize "contains retinol." Environ prioritizes delivering the optimal vitamin A for the skin and continues to focus on its research.
Since vitamin A is prone to degradation by UV rays, it is crucial to constantly replenish it
What is Retinyl Ester, Which Accounts for About 91% of Vitamin A in the Skin?
What types of vitamin A exist?
There are various types of vitamin A, but the four main types used in cosmetics are as follows:
① Retinyl Palmitate ② Retinyl Propionate ③ Retinyl Acetate ④ Retinol (pure retinol)
These four types of vitamin A are broadly categorized into two forms: "retinyl esters (retinol derivatives)" and "retinol." Incidentally, the fourth one, retinol, is referred to as "pure retinol" in cosmetics.
Although retinol is a highly regarded ingredient, approximately 91% of the vitamin A stored in the skin is in the form of retinyl esters, with only around 3% being retinol. Dr. Des believes it is essential to store large amounts of retinyl esters within the skin.
Approximately 91% of vitamin A is stored as retinyl ester
What are the differences among the four types of vitamin A?
The differences lie in factors such as skin irritation, penetration, and stability. For example, retinyl propionate has high stability and is less likely to break down even when exposed to sunlight. On the other hand, retinol has lower stability but higher penetration.
Additionally, retinyl palmitate has UV protection effects, among other unique characteristics. Therefore, Environ believes that combining various types of vitamin A is beneficial for the skin.
How does vitamin A work on the skin?
Vitamin A provides the following benefits for the skin:
・Maintains skin firmness, moisture, and elasticity ・Supports skin balance function ・Cares for dullness and uneven skin tone ・Regulates skin turnover ・Helps repair damage such as dryness ・Leads to smooth, well-textured skin
However, vitamin A is not only essential for the skin but also for maintaining overall health. While it can be obtained from diet, most of it is consumed within the body. To have an effect on the skin, it is necessary to apply vitamin A through skincare products.
When applied to the skin, whether in the form of retinol or retinyl palmitate, vitamin A is instantly stored in skin cells in the form of retinyl esters via vitamin A receptors. These stored retinyl esters decrease due to factors such as UV rays, which is why consistently having a supply of vitamin A in the skin is ideal.