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2025.03.01

Exploring the Unexpected Commonalities Between "Heian" & "Reiwa" Fashion Through the Era of "The Tale of Genji"

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The "Heian Period" featured in the NHK Taiga drama "Dear Radiance." In a society completely different from today, how did people choose their clothing and live their lives?
We interviewed "Jyoukouin," who has actually revived and wears clothing from that era. Let’s explore the fashion of the mid-Heian period, approximately 1000 years ago, through its design, silhouette, and trends.
PROFILE
Jyoukouin (承香院)
Jyoukouin (承香院)

A researcher and practitioner of Heian period and surrounding culture. Engaging in unique research by wearing and practicing the clothing and culture of the Heian era, specializing in sewing and recreating garments from the mid-Heian period, allowing for a personal experience of the lifestyle of that time. Her publications include "あたらしい平安文化の教科書" (Shoeisha) and her X profile: https://x.com/jyoukouin

Experiencing Life from 1000 Years Ago by "Wearing" Heian

Images of the activities of Jyoukouin, who experiences the Heian period as it was, including its costumes. Image source: "あたらしい平安文化の教科書 平安王朝文学期の文化がビジュアルで楽しくわかる、リアルな暮らしと風俗" (Jyoukouin, Shoeisha, 2024)
Images of the activities of Jyoukouin, who experiences the Heian period as it was, including its costumes. Image source: "あたらしい平安文化の教科書 平安王朝文学期の文化がビジュアルで楽しくわかる、リアルな暮らしと風俗" (Jyoukouin, Shoeisha, 2024)
What sparked your interest in the Heian period, Jyoukouin?
Born in a regional city where many festivals and ceremonies featuring traditional attire still remain, I developed an interest in Japan's ancient clothing, including the garments worn by samurai such as Kamishimo and armor, along with kimonos.
What particularly astonished me was the attire of the noble class living in the court during the Heian period (794-the 12th century), which is also the backdrop of "The Tale of Genji."
The designs, such as Eboshi, Kariginu, and the well-known Junihitoe (twelve-layered robe), are unimaginable by today's standards. Although they are very flamboyant in color, they somehow feel harmonious and possess an air of elegance.
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